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2015 Graduation Fashion Show Designers: Patricia Wijaya

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Patricia Wijaya. Image: Rob Curry

Patricia Wijaya. Image: Rob Curry

Patricia Wijaya, BFA Fashion Design, was born and raised in Jakarta, Indonesia, and now resides in Oakland, California. Before pursuing her degree in the States, Wijaya worked as an assistant for Indonesian designers Itang Yunasz and Susan Budihardjo. Prior to working on her 2015 graduation collection, in 2014 Wijaya contributed her beading design efforts to a graduating senior’s final collection.

Illustrated lineup of Patricia Wijaya's graduation collection. Image: courtesy of Patricia Wijaya

Illustrated lineup of Patricia Wijaya’s graduation collection. Image: courtesy of Patricia Wijaya

Wijaya’s family history of scoliosis has been a source of inspiration for the collection; scoliosis is represented through the center-curved seams on both the front and back of each garment. The hole cutouts on every piece represent the shapes of a back brace similar to the one her sister had to wear in childhood. Wijaya has also incorporated elements of sportswear—to represent her love of playing sports—with her use of denim througout the collection. Wijaya has taken no easy route, as she’s implemented an intricate and traditional technique with hand beading detailing in her asymmetrical designs.

An inspiration page from Patricia Wijaya's sketchbook. Image: courtesy of Patricia WijayaImage: courtesy of Patricia Wijaya

An inspiration page from Patricia Wijaya’s sketchbook. Image: courtesy of Patricia Wijaya

What advice would you give students who want to do a collection?

 Patricia Wijaya: Give it your all, do it wholeheartedly, do not give up and try your best. Manage your time wisely, and make going to school your full time job. Lastly, listen to your instructors they give the best insight.

 Who are your favorite fashion icons and why?

PW: Biyan, he has a classy and feminine style for women of all ages.

 What is the best advice you have ever received?

 PW: Try your best in everything you do. Most importantly, be on time.

 By: Jazelle Prado


May 2015 Graduation Fashion Show Student Profile: Keith Gunning

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Keith Gunning. Image: Rob Curry.

Keith Gunning. Image: Rob Curry.

Keith Gunning, BFA Fashion Design, was born in Galway, Ireland. He grew up in Calgary, Canada, where he worked as a Sales Assistant at Club Monaco. He then went on to earn his first degree in Liberal Arts before moving to San Francisco to pursue Fashion Design at Academy of Art University. Gunning has since worked as Construction Draping and Flat Pattern teachers aide at the Academy of Art University in 2011, an intern at Smith Brand Bow Ties in 2012 and most recently as a Sales Assistant for Sandro Paris, at Bloomingdales.

Keith Gunning's graduation collection line-up. Image:courtesy of Keith Gunning

Keith Gunning’s graduation collection line-up. Image: courtesy of Keith Gunning

Keith Gunning's graduation collection line-up. Image:courtesy of Keith Gunning

Keith Gunning’s graduation collection line-up. Image: courtesy of Keith Gunning

Gunning’s graduate collection, made entirely of neoprene, was heavily inspired by the late legendary London-based artist, Leigh Bowery who has influenced artists amongst the likes of Alexander McQueen, Lucian Freud, Boy George and Lady Gaga. He was known for his flamboyant designs and his ability to cause a reaction. This is what led Gunning to create a brightly colored collection of neoprene dresses, draped kimonos and jackets using cable-ties, which were attached to rope, spray-painted, and sewn into each individual seam.

Keith Gunning's graduation collection mood board Image:courtesy of Keith Gunning

Keith Gunning’s graduation collection mood board Image: courtesy of Keith Gunning

What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion?

Probably all of the crazy late nights working at Polk Street untill 11 pm. We would play ridiculously loud music in the fifth floor studios and danced when we cut patterns or ironed muslin samples. There was a ton of work being done, but there was also a ton of laughter.

What advice would you give students who want to do collection?

You need to be open to change and criticism and you need to be able to work incredibly hard. It’s definitely difficult. You’re in a constant state of uncertainty, but you need to be confident in your work. It’s not an easy process at all, but if you’re passionate about your work then it will be right for you.

What are your plans after graduation?

A few months ago I wouldn’t know how to answer this question. Thankfully in the past month several opportunities have come my way. Directly after school finishes I will be getting myself a drink and taking a long nap. Then I am off to Los Angeles for the summer to intern with BCBG Max Azria in their eveningwear department, before moving to Paris at the end of the year.

Gunning was granted a place in Academy of Art University’s French Exchange Scholarship Program and will be studying at Studio Bercot in Paris beginning September 2015.

By: Faye Harris, MFA Fashion Journalism

May 2015 Graduation Fashion Show Designers: Yunseon Kim and Carmen X Liu

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Yunseon Kim. Image: Rob Curry

Yunseon Kim. Image: Rob Curry

Yunseon Kim was born in Daegu, South Korea. After completing high school, she moved to San Francisco to pursue Fashion Design at Academy of Art University. Kim collaborated on her collection with BFA Jewelry and Metal Arts Design student, Carmen X Liu.

Carmen X Liu. Image: Rob Curry.

Carmen X Liu. Image: Rob Curry.

Carmen X Liu was born in China, and grew up in Vancouver, Canada, where she gained a BFA in Fine Arts before moving to San Francisco to continue her design education in Jewelry and Metal Arts at Academy of Art University. Liu won Best of Show at the Academy’s 2013 Undergraduate Jewelry and Metal Arts Award Show, and was a first place winner in 2014.

Carmen X Liu Jewelry Collection Illustration. Image: image courtesy of Carmen X Liu.

Carmen X Liu Jewelry Collection Illustration. Image: image courtesy of Carmen X Liu.

Yunseon Kim Collection Illustration Lineup. Image: courtesy of Yunseon Kim.

Yunseon Kim Collection Illustration Lineup. Image: courtesy of Yunseon Kim.

For her graduation collection, Kim drew inspiration from the shape and silhouettes of traditional Korean dress, hanbok, which is often characterized by vibrant colors and simple lines. To accent Kim’s garments, Liu created a collection of elegant and brightly colored costume jewelry pieces. She depicts organic and geometric shapes, using harmonious groupings of colors, such as varying shades of blues and greens to create unique, statement art works. Color is the most important aspect of her work; she uses color to express the emotion behind the pieces, their vibrancy bringing them to life.

Carmen X Liu Jewelry Collection Process Image: image courtesy of Carmen X Liu.

Carmen X Liu Jewelry Collection Process Image: image courtesy of Carmen X Liu.

What is the best advice you have ever received?

Carmen X Liu: Keep the inspiration flowing. Never stop thinking of new ideas and once you have it write it down in your journal.

What are your plans after graduation?

CXL: Looking for internships and eventually set up my own studio.

 What is your dream job?

CXL: Jewelry Designer

Yunseon Kim Mood Board. Image: courtesy of Yunseon Kim.

Yunseon Kim Mood Board. Image: courtesy of Yunseon Kim.

What advice would you give students who want to do collection?

Yunseon Kim: Come to school early and stay longer than your classmates. Be the first person come to school and last person to leave.

What is your style motto?

YK: Sometimes nothing is better than too much.

What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion?

YK: The first time I saw a model walk in a garment that I made.

By: Faye Harris, MFA Fashion Journalism

2015 Graduation Fashion Show Designers: Gaia Giladi

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Gaia Giladi lineup
Gaia Giladi. Image: Rob Curry

Gaia Giladi Image: Rob Curry

Gaia Giladi, BFA Fashion Design, was born in Los Angeles, California, and grew up in Irvine, California. In 2014 Giladi interned with Sausalito-based brand Gr. Dano, where she worked directly with the designer Jill Giordano, 2004 BFA Fashion Design alumna. Giladi also assisted Academy of Art University MFA alumni Arijana Kajdić and Jaci Hodges in pattern making, garment construction, and beading for their Fall 2014 New York Fashion Week collections.

Gaia Gilad's graduation collection line-up. Image: courtesy of Gaia Giladi

Gaia Giladi’s graduation collection line-up. Image: courtesy of Gaia Giladi

For her senior collection, Giladi used cotton, polyester, rayon, and plastic fabrics. Skate parks were the inspiration for her collection, which features “shapes and dimensions [that are evocative of] the ramps and half pipes that are found in skate parks.” Giladi also used 3D lenticular printed materials as a means to capture movement and a selection of different images within her pieces. Giladi paired the visually stunning lenticular materials with a new textile she created by seaming together a variety of black and white stripe fabrics to create her own striped fabric.

Gaia Giladi's graduation collection moodboard. Image: courtesy of Gaia Giladi

Gaia Giladi’s graduation collection moodboard. Image: courtesy of Gaia Giladi

What is the best advice you have ever received?

Gaia Giladi: If you don’t like it, try it. You might like it.

What advice would you give students who want to do collection?

GG: Be open minded to change and try all suggestions given to you by your instructors. Experimenting will be worth the extra time, because you never know what will come of it.

Ignoring the cost, what item of clothing / bag / designer would you buy right now?

GG: These amazing Acne sandals I just saw on Pinterest!

A piece in progress from Gaia Giladi's graduation collection. Image: courtesy of Gaia Giladi

A piece in progress from Gaia Giladi’s graduation collection. Image: courtesy of Gaia Giladi

By: Ashlin Randolph

2015 Graduation Fashion Show Designers: Amanda Manashi

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Amanda Manashi's illustrated lineup.
Amanda Manashi, photo by Rob Curry.

Amanda Manashi, photo by Rob Curry.

Amanda Manashi, BFA Fashion Design, was born in Houston, Texas and grew up in Danville, California. In the summer of 2014 she interned with Global Brands Group, Marchesa Voyage, where she managed and completed line sheets and tech packs for knit and woven categories. Additionally, she assisted with fittings, product development, mood boards, concept illustrations and technical flats.

Amanda Manashi's illustrated lineup.

Amanda Manashi’s illustrated lineup.

For her senior collection, Manashi was inspired by Art Nouveau architect, Hector Guimard. The juxtaposition of linear and organic shapes in his architecture was translated into pleats and voluminous silhouettes in Manashi’s designs. She completed her collection using a mixture of silk and, specifically, men’s tie silk.

What is the best advice you have ever received?

Amanda Manashi: Remain open-minded and let the process take its course.

What is your greatest style regret?

AM: Zip-up hoodie.

What is your style motto?

AM: Simple and classic.

 

By Mary McNeil

2015 Graduation Fashion Show Designer: Ruone Yan

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Ruone Yan.Image: Rob Curry.

Ruone Yan. Image: Rob Curry.

BFA Fashion Design student, Ruone Yan was born and raised in Chongqing, China. He graduated from the Beijing No.8 High School and soon after enrolled at the Academy to study menswear design.  Yan created his collection with canvas that he dyed with oolong tea. He was inspired by the Cephalotus, also known as the Venus flytrap. He wanted to capture the idea of the insects being trapped within it. “Outside, the insects are vulnerable to other elements of danger even though they are being slowly ingested,” said Yan. “So are the insects safe or in danger within the body of the plant?” the designer asked rhetorically.

Ruone Yan's illustrated line-up. Image: courtesy of Ruan Yan

Ruone Yan’s illustrated line-up. Image: courtesy of Ruan Yan

“I want to buy clothing from Julius. [I’m] buying [a] bag from Kofta,” Yan said.  Keeping in mind looks like his long vest coat over jersey shirt with leggings from his graduation collection, the influence of these anti-fashion fashion brands is palpable, but his six look line-up is uniquely his own.

What is your greatest style motto?

Ruone Yan: For myself, I want to protect and hide myself, for my design it’s the opposite.

Which items in your closet do you most use?

RY: My black coat.

What is your dream job?

RY: To be a menswear designer and to have my own brand.

By: Mary McNeil

May 2015 Graduation Fashion Show Student Profile: Jc Munoz

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Jc Munoz. Image: Rob Curry.

Jc Munoz. Image: Rob Curry.

Jc Munoz, BFA Fashion Design, was born in Monterey, California. After completing high school in his hometown of Austin, Texas, Munoz went on to become an assistant designer for Punky Couture in 2012 and for Abercrombie & Fitch in 2014. Munoz’s industry recognitions include winning several awards in the 2015 Royal Society of Arts competition, specifically the $1000 Target Award for Fashion; Pointcarre Design Software, License and Support, Award for Textile Design; $1000 Sustainable Design Practices Award, Sponsored by Techmer PM; and the $500 Founder’s portfolio Award. In addition, Munoz’s prints were featured in the Fashionsnoops.com Textile Competition in Spring 2015.

Jc Munoz illustrated graduation collection lineup Image: courtesy of Jc Munoz

Jc Munoz illustrated graduation collection lineup Image: courtesy of Jc Munoz

Munoz’s graduation collection was inspired by aviation, specifically the beauty of fighter jets as they fluidly move through the air. The silhouettes of his designs mimic the curves and aerodynamic shapes of F-16 and B-2 fighter jets. Munoz’s collection features his own textiles, as well as material he made by piecing together over 300 felt stripes. The collection includes ombre printed sweaters, dresses, and pants overlaid with thermal insulated, flame retardant and eco-friendly material and paired with contrasting white silks and pink cotton denim.

Jc Munoz graduation collection mood Board. Image: courtesy of Jc Munoz

Jc Munoz graduation collection mood Board. Image: courtesy of Jc Munoz

What is the best advice you have ever received?

Jc Munoz: Have the courage to live a life true to yourself, not the life others expect of you.

 What advice would you give students who want to do collection?

JM: Love what you create.

 What is your style motto?

JM: All black everything.

 Who are your favorite fashion icons and why?

Yohji Yamamoto because of his modern and elegant style and Alexander McQueen for his ability to push boundaries while staying true to himself.

By: Faye Harris, MFA Fashion Journalism

2015 Graduation Fashion Show Designers: Jeremy Vu, Justin Lei Wang and Lupita Ramirez

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Jeremy Vu Truly Outrageous Lineup HIGHRES-01-01
Jeremy Vu. Image: Rob Curry.

Jeremy Vu. Image: Rob Curry.

For their 2015 graduation menswear collection, A, BFA Jewelry Designer Justin Lei Wang, and BFA Knitwear Designer Lupita Ramirez have joined forces to create a stunning collaborative collection.

Jermey Vu was born in San Jose, California and raised in Santa Clara, California. While working toward his undergraduate degree, Vu worked as an alterations assistant at design powerhouse Rodarte, where he helped complete the S/S 12, F/W 12 and S/S 14 collections. Vu also interned with Bay Area-based designer and fellow AAU graduate Melissa Fleis in the Spring of 2014; during his internship at Melissa Fleis, Vu assisted with fittings and alterations, patternmaking and sample construction.

Lupita Ramirez.Image: Rob Curry.

Lupita Ramirez. Image: Rob Curry.

Knitwear designer Lupita Ramirez was born and raised in Fortuna, California. With one of her top goals being to work as part of a design team, it’s no surprise that Ramirez is working alongside two designers to collaborate on a collection.

Justin Lei Wang Image: Rob Curry.

Justin Lei Wang  Image: Rob Curry.

Justin Lei Wang was born and raised in Harbin, China. Concurrent with his undergraduate studies, Wang has worked as a freelance jewelry designer, honing his experience in jewelry and metal arts. Wang’s work has earned him recognition: in 2014 he won the third place Jewelry and Metal Art award at the Academy of Art University Spring Show.

A glimpse at Jeremy Vu, Lupita Ramirez and Justin Lei Wang's menswear collection. Image: courtesy of eremy Vu, Lupita Ramirez and Justin Lei Wang.

A glimpse at Jeremy Vu, Lupita Ramirez and Justin Lei Wang’s menswear collection. Image: courtesy of Jeremy Vu, Lupita Ramirez and Justin Lei Wang.

For their collaborative collection, which they have named “Truly Outrageous,” Vu, Ramirez and Wang took a stylistic page from the 1980s, specifically the film Heathers and the animated television show Jem and the Holograms. The wide-shouldered silhouettes are a clear nod to the decade, while the loud color palette and funky, mixed patterns evoke the rock star attitude captured in the animated television series. Vu took additional inspiration from the music video for the song “Good Girl Freak Out,” by Double Duchess. By combining elements from the film, television show and music video, Vu created “a fun, full-on glam collection for the man who’s not afraid to stand out in a crowd.”

Inspiration image showing the cashmere fabric Ramirez used in the collection. Image: courtesy of Lupita Ramirez.

Inspiration image showing the cashmere fabric Ramirez used in the collection. Image: courtesy of Lupita Ramirez.

What is the best advice you ever received?

Jeremy Vu: Have fun with it. If you’re not enjoying what you’re doing it will show in the end.

What is your favorite memory being in the school of fashion?

Lupita Ramirez: When the heater system broke down in knitwear the December before last and we had to finish our garments that weekend. We layered jacket over sweater on top sweater with beanies and scarves. We looked completely ridiculous running around trying to get through finals.

What advice would you give students who want to do collection?

Justin Lei Wang: Be patient, learn to listen, don’t give up.

Still’s from the “Heathers” movie, which is a main source of inspiration for this collection. Image: courtesy of eremy Vu, Lupita Ramirez and Justin Lei Wang.

Still’s from the “Heathers” movie, which is a main source of inspiration for this collection. Image: courtesy of Jeremy Vu, Lupita Ramirez and Justin Lei Wang.

What is your greatest style regret?

JV: Pretty much all of 1995-1999 for me.

What is your dream job?

LR: My dream job is to be a part of a great team that all have different views but together have the same vision.

Which talent would you most like to have?

JLW: I would love to be able to play the violin!

By: Alexa Palacios, BFA Fashion Journalism


May 2015 Graduation Fashion Designers: Eleonore L. Santos and Anna Metzel

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Eleonore L. Santos and Anna Metzel Collection Illustration Lineup. Image: courtesy of Eleonore L. Santos and Anna Metzel
Eleonore L. Santos.Image: Rob Curry.

Eleonore L. Santos Image: Rob Curry.

Eleonore L. Santos grew up in San Diego, California. After completing high school, she went on to attend Academy of Art University to fulfill her dream of being a fashion designer. Santos collaborated on her graduation collection with BFA Textile Design student Anna Metzel.

Anna Metzel Image: Rob Curry.

Anna Metzel Image: Rob Curry.

Anna Metzel was born in Gurnee, Illinois. Metzel first began her studies at the Academy in the graphic design program, but eventually found her calling working toward her BFA in Applied Textile Design. While studying for her undergraduate degree, Metzel has gained real world experience through a display design internship at San Francisco-based Pottery Barn Kids.

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Eleonore L. Santos and Anna Metzel illustrated lineup. Image: courtesy of Eleonore L. Santos and Anna Metzel

Santos’ and Metzel’s graduate collection was inspired by Irish-born figurative painter Francis Bacon, who was recognized for his bold, emotionally charged and surrealist imagery. Santos’ and Metzel’s collaborative collection infuse garments with Bacon’s wild use of color and erratic brushstroke style to mimic the utter chaos shown in his paintings. With complex seaming and innovative pattern design, the cotton twill garments are technically complicated, yet the watercolor-like textile keep the collection ground the collection in solidly beautiful, evocative territory.

What is the best advice you have ever received?

Eleonore L. Santos: “If you like it, do it. If you don’t like it, try it. You might like it.” -Rob Curry, Associate Director, 3D Design

What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion?

ELS: The first time I had to draw a nude male model in my illustration class. It was so hard to concentrate.

What advice would you give students who want to do collection?

ELS: Treat school like it’s your job. Treat your teachers like they are paying you to do the work. Everything you do leading up to your senior year is practice for your collection. Level five is where it all counts.

What advice would you give to students who want to do a collection?

Anna Metzel: Make sure you have enough time to dedicate to yourself but more importantly, don’t forget to have fun!

Who are your favorite fashion icons and why?

AM: Joséphine de La Baume because she makes me feel like it’s okay to have messy hair and Gwen Stefani because she knows how to have fun!

What is your dream job?

AM: My dream job is to be a lace designer or a floriculturist.

By: Faye Harris, MFA Fashion Journalism

SHOP657: The Evolution of the School of Fashion’s Retail Store

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shop657

Image: Anthony Rogers.

On Thursday, April 30, the Academy’s retail store, SHOP657, reopens at its 657 Sutter Street location to showcase the exceptional work from talented School of Fashion students and alumni. SHOP657, a permanent, not-for-profit retail space created and curated by Academy of Art University School of Fashion Merchandising students, sells one-of-a-kind clothing, shoes, accessories and decorative lifestyle items designed by School of Fashion students and alumni.

“SHOP657 builds on the momentum that the Academy of Art University School of Fashion experienced with our successful pop-up store, which made its debut at our spring show last year,” said Keanan Duffty, Senior Director of Fashion Merchandising. “SHOP657 is continually evolving and new alumni lines are being added to the roster of student and alumni collections that are carried at the shop. Creating and operating a dedicated fashion retail space is a unique opportunity to launch our graduates to be future stars in the fashion firmament.”

I sat down with a few of the designers whose collections are carried at SHOP657 to chat with them about their lines, their time in the School of Fashion, and their plans for the future.

 VOIDTHEBRAND

VOIDTHEBRAND

VOIDTHEBRAND by Zhao Wu, BFA Fashion Merchandising. Stylist: Lanye Rouch and Bibiana Pina. Image: Anthony Rogers.

As one of the original lines sold at the retail store, VOIDTHEBRAND is no stranger to SHOP657. For the reopening, VOIDTHEBRAND has collaborated with a local graphic designer on uniquely hand-dyed limited edition pieces which will be available at SHOP657.

With a strong belief in honest products, the brand presents basic but distinctive designs that are both high quality and affordable. “As an alumni, it is my honor to participate in such an event [SHOP657]) and be able to encourage others to pursue their dreams,” said brand founder Zhao Wu.

Wu and his friends started the VOIDTHEBRAND while they were still students at Academy of Art University, because they “felt the urge to create a lineup of clothing that represented our perspectives in fashion.” After graduating with a BFA in Fashion Merchandising, Wu and business partners continued to develop the brand into “a complete collection with more product variations and collaborations.”

Wu explained, “My philosophy is simple. I wanted to create a line of well designed products with great quality at the lowest prices available.” To transfer their fashion philosophy into tangible products, VOIDTHEBRAND sources their materials from a fabric mill in southern California and rest of the manufacturing process is done locally in San Francisco.

When asked what’s next for VOIDTHEBRAND, Wu sited successful mega brand Nike as a source of inspiration, “I admire the way Nike conducts research and integrates the results into their products—to me it is beyond any other apparel brand that exists. I would love to do that with technology; tech-apparel is something I would like to further explore.”

 Snacku

Snacku by Yoshimi Fukazawa, MFA Fashion Design. Styling: Boa Chu, Michelle Hsu, Chaw Chaw San and Kamila Marquez. Image: Jeffry Raposas

Snacku by Yoshimi Fukazawa, MFA Fashion Design. Styling: Sophie Charles, Erin Ryan and Stacey Bledsoe. Image: Jeffry Raposas.

 New to SHOP657, Snacku is the brainchild of MFA Fashion Design alumna Yoshimi Fukazawa. Describing the name of her company, Fukazawa says, “I want my customers to find the kind of pleasure in my designs that snacks can bring to people.”

After graduating from the School of Fashion, Fukazawa worked for local designers and brands where she faced two obstacles: the fast fashion trend and working as a design assistant as opposed to being the head designer. Fukazawa soon figured out that “what customers really appreciate are well made, functional, basic styles from quality materials such as leather.” Such analysis made more sense to her than the fast fashion trend, and it eventually encouraged her to create a brand that truly represented her design philosophy.

As a fashion designer and a cartoonist, Fukazawa creates classic and versatile outerwear for Snacku that have “fun and surprising functional details.” Her vintage leather bomber, for example, has rolled rib cuffs with a hole on each side so they can be worn as mitts when they are stretched. Fukazawa’s commitment to well made fashion can be seen in all aspects of her collection, from the process of sourcing the raw materials— the leather hides come from Italy and the rest of the raw materials are sourced domestically from mills that hand-dye the leather to order— to the construction of the garments by hand in the Snacku “Squirrel Factory” studio.

“Fashion is a business, not conceptual art, so I am learning a lot of the practical side to making collections and it is very hard. I think it’s great for fashion merchandising students to learn how to run an actual store and be able to learn some of these things while they are still in school!”

Fukazawa is presenting Snacku’s Fall 2015 capsule collection, “Hobo,” at SHOP657. “Hobo” is her first collection to include wool-only jackets and coats, and uses domestically sourced wool from a small production mill. Of her inspiration, Fukazawa says, “My muse is my sister, who wants her clothes to fit into an office situation but also work for a Sunday brunch or shopping trip. So every time I design a new jacket, I have to step back and make sure it’s not too avant-garde but that it still has something special, like a zip out lining filled with my cartoon characters.”

In 10 years Fukazawa hopes to have Snacku sold at Barney’s New York, but in the meantime you can find her capsule collection at SHOP657 in San Francisco!

 Diana Garcia

 New to SHOP657 is the stunning jewelry from MFA Jewelry and Metal Arts student Diana Garcia. Garcia is not simply a designer, but is also a narrator; when looking at necklaces like the double-headed horse pendant or ‘paper planes’ statement necklace, you cannot help but ask “what is the story behind this jewelry and who makes them?”

Garcia launched her brand in 2013 while she was a student at Academy of Art University. “The journey is like a roller coaster. Sometimes it is super fun, but it can also be really scary,” Garcia said. “Being at the Academy of Art University has been a huge influence and it’s been a dream come true to be with all the people that I admire. I really want to follow in their footsteps.”

Garcia said of her design process, “When I design, I envision that my customers want to look different, be avant-garde, and they are looking for a jewelry that they can take with them on a journey…[with it, they can] always be ready for anything.” Garcia works primarily with brass and silver, because she loves that “they can be permissive and let you mold and sculpt just the way you want.”

At SHOP657 you can find Garcia’s handmade sterling sliver jewelry pieces that she hopes will “make you fall in love.” “When they told me that SHOP657 was looking for emerging designers I didn’t think twice. I knew that I wanted to be there, showing my work alongside so many other talented designers. For me, as a student, it is an honor to have my work included in the shop.”

Through her participation in SHOP657 she hopes her brand will be recognized in the city. San Francisco is just the first of many cities she hopes to conquer over the next decade. She is also curating a new collaboration with SHOP657. Although she cannot give much detail about the project at this point, it will involve the launch of a new collection so stay tuned!

Gazel by Pinar Badur, MFA Fashion Merchandising. Styling: Boa Chu, Michelle Hsu, Chaw Chaw San and Kamila Marquez. Image: Jeffry Raposas

Gazel by Pinar Badur, MFA Fashion Merchandising. Styling: Boa Chu, Michelle Hsu, Chaw Chaw San and Kamila Marquez. Image: Jeffry Raposas.

Zhao Wu, Yoshimi Fukazawa and Diana Garcia are just a few of the talented students and alumni whose collections can be found at SHOP657. In addition, San Francycle, Mute, Apartment 415, Gazel, Rinat Brodach, 625 Lab, Dale Beevers, Deanna Wardley and VIPE are great alumni brands that can be found in the shop. Stop by 657 Sutter Street to see the amazing collections in person!

Images shot by Jeffry Raposas and Anthony Rogers, styled in the three sections of FSH 391 Fashion Product Styling class taught by Teresa Merenda. All shots conceptualized and styled by students.

By: Go-Un Yi

May 2015 Graduation Fashion Show Student Profile: Damien Chandra

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Illustrated lineup by Damien Chandra.
Damien Chandra, photo by Rob Curry.

Damien Chandra, photo by Rob Curry.

Damien Chandra, BFA Fashion Design, was born in Jakarta, Indonesia. After completing high school in Indonesia, Chandra went on to become a design assistant for Daniyo Hiyoji womenswear, before moving to San Francisco to pursue fashion design at Academy of Art University.

Mood board by Damien Chandra.

Mood board by Damien Chandra.

Chandra’s graduation collection is inspired by the work of figurative sculptor Willy Verginer. Verginer employs techniques of color dipping, texture change and color blocking to cut up his sculptures in unexpected places, giving them a surreal quality. Taking a page from Verginer’s signature style, Chandra used a mix of fabrics and colors to create to have a collection that gives the illusion of being cut apart and sewn back together. The collection is executed in wool fabrics in polka dot and herringbone patterns, laminated wool, acrylic faux fur, and rayon acetate.

Illustrated lineup by Damien Chandra.

Illustrated lineup by Damien Chandra.

What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion?

Damien Chandra: I would say when we had mini dance sessions every once in a while, especially during late nights spent working in the lab.

What advice would you give students who want to do a collection?

DC: Get yourself mentally ready for working late nights for weeks and weeks. Try to also get help to finish up your collection.

Who are your favorite fashion icons and why?

DC: That would be Carine Roitfeld. She has a nonchalant attitude about the way she dresses. She’s edgy, cool and sexy at the same time.

 

 

Written by Faye Harris, MFA Fashion Journalism

May 2015 Graduation Fashion Designers: XUN LI

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Xun Li's illustrated lineup.
Xun Li, photo by Rob Curry.

Xun Li, photo by Rob Curry.

Xun Li was born in Chongqing, China. Li has worked as a fashion intern for two flagship retail stores in China, Shangxia in 2012 and Cai Lia in 2013. He then moved to San Francisco, California to pursue his passion for Fashion Design with an emphasis in menswear at Academy of Art University. His recognitions include being chosen as a finalist for CFDA’s Teen Vogue Competition in 2012.

Xun Li's illustrated lineup.

Xun Li’s illustrated lineup.

Li’s graduation menswear collection is evocative of his source of inspiration, which were windows, translucent plastic sculptures, and art that explores light and transparency. He used translucent and buff-rubber silicone fabrics as overlays on black shirts and pants made from cotton twill. The collection is accented with blue Thermoplastic Polyurethane (TPU) shirt collars, cuffs, and fastenings for an ultra-modern feel.

Xun Li's mood board.

Xun Li’s mood board.

What advice would you give students who want to do a collection?

Xun Li: Creating a collection is a long and tough journey. You may have no time to hang out with your friends or even with your parents. However, when you see your own garments on the stage, it makes everything worth it.

Which items in your closet do you most use?

XL: My leather handbag from Saint Laurent. I keep all of my fabric samples in it. I also put a sketchbook inside, in case if I have any inspiring ideas.

What are your plans after graduation? What is your dream job?

XL: I would like to work for a fashion design agency first and then open up my own brand or fashion business after I feel confident enough to work on my own as a designer.

 

Written by Faye Harris, MFA Fashion Journalism

2015 Graduation Fashion Show Designers: Lauren Lusby and Nomin Gantulga

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nomin and lauren lineup
Nomin Gantulga. Image: Rob Curry.

Nomin Gantulga. Image: Rob Curry.

Nomin Gantulga, BFA Fashion Design, was born in Prague, Czech Republic and raised in Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia. In Mongolia she interned with Goyo Cashmere. In 2015 Gantulga was an Royal Society of Arts finalist and in 2014 she was honored in the President’s List. Collaborating with textile design student Lauren Lusby, Gantulga created a collection in cotton, wool blends and raw silk.

Lauren Lusby and Nomin Gantulga's illustrated line-up. Image: courtesy of Lauren Lusby and Nomin Gantulga

Lauren Lusby and Nomin Gantulga’s illustrated line-up. Image: courtesy of Lauren Lusby and Nomin Gantulga

She was inspired by the Japanese photographer[Nobuyoshi]Araki, flower petals and a Japanese rope tying art called Shibari. “Initially, the collection strips down the world’s objectification of women, making them look strong within this complexity,” said Gantulga. “Araki tied the women down and I made them run by breaking the ties around them.”

Lauren Lusby and Nomin Gantulga's Araki inspired mooboard. Image: courtesy of Lauren Lusby and Nomin Gantulga

Lauren Lusby and Nomin Gantulga’s Araki inspired mooboard. Image: courtesy of Lauren Lusby and Nomin Gantulga

What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion?

Nomin Gantulga: I cherish the memories of spending everyday from 8:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. with my fellow classmates. They probably don’t know how inspiring and strong they are. You guys rock!

 What is your greatest style regret?

NM: I didn’t have a chance to look like a fashion designer my whole senior year. I regret wearing all black and [looking] gloomy with messy hair and make-up.

 What is your dream job?

NM: My dream job is to do what makes other people happy and fulfilled or at least contribute to society. Of course, it has to be related with my artistic nature.

Lauren Lusby.  Image: Rob Curry.

Lauren Lusby. Image: Rob Curry.

Lauren Lusby, BFA Textile Design, was born and raised in Houston, Texas, where she graduated from Bellaire High School in 2010 and shortly after enrolled in the Academy. She recently received the Fashion Snoops 2015 Recognized Designer award and won the Surtex 2015 award. For her collection, Lusby hand embroidered and created beading brushstrokes on wool, raw silk and mesh-neoprene. She collaborated with fashion design student Nomin Gantulga.

What is the best advice you have ever received?

Lauren Lusby: This is a field that will never die, no matter what others will say.  Follow always your heart and senses, they’re the best friends one can have.  There’s no such a thing about knowing it all, that’s a misconception.  There’s always something new waiting for you at the opening of your door every morning, take it and make good use of it.

What advice would you give students who want to do collection?

LL: Do not forget to have fun!

 Which talent would you most like to have?

LL: Wild animal tamer!

By: Mary McNeil

May 2015 Graduation Fashion Designers: Gyuwon Jeong and Jimin A. Kim

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Gyuwon Jeong. Image: Rob Curry.

Gyuwon Jeong. Image: Rob Curry.

Gyuwon Jeong was born in Seoul, South Korea. After completing high school in Korea, she attended fashion school in Japan, where she competed in the Freshman Fashion Show Competition, winning an award for Fashion Show Directing. Jeong then moved to San Francisco, California, to continue her studies in pursuit of a BFA in Menswear Design at the Academy. Jeong collaborated on her graduation collection with BFA Textile Design student Jimin A Kim.

Gyuwon Jeong and Jimin A. Kim's graduation collection Illustration Lineup Image: courtesy of Gyuwon Jeong and Jimin A. Kim

Gyuwon Jeong and Jimin A. Kim’s graduation collection illustrated lineup. Image: courtesy of Gyuwon Jeong and Jimin A. Kim

Jeong’s designs were inspired by Mexican Cholombians and the South African Ndebele tribes, particularly the eccentric haircuts and non-proportional clothing that are customary in both tribes. Her collection consists of oversized silhouettes executed in jersey and rib knit fabrics, with cotton and polyester braided piping; the latter evokes the feeling of the solid copper and brass neck rings worn by the Ndebele tribe.

What is your greatest style regret?

Gyuwon Jeong: Morning class fashion (my outfit when I have morning class)

 What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion?

GJ: Meeting the menswear design family in our school. Our class is small, so we are always together.

What is your dream job?

GJ: Creative designer.

Jimin A. Kim. Image: Rob Curry.

Jimin A. Kim. Image: Rob Curry.

Jimin A Kim was born in Seoul, South Korea. After completing high school, Kim went on to own a custom t-shirt menswear store named AKim & S in Seoul from 2006-2009. He then moved to Reno, Nevada where he gained his Associate of Arts degree before pursuing a BFA in Textile Design from the Academy.

Gyuwon Jeong and Jimin A. Kim's graduation collection mood board. Image: courtesy of Gyuwon Jeong and Jimin A. Kim

Gyuwon Jeong and Jimin A. Kim’s graduation collection mood board. Image: courtesy of Gyuwon Jeong and Jimin A. Kim

To complement Jeong’s silhouetes, Kim’s textile designs were inspired by African tribal prints and the evident brush strokes seen in many mural arts. Kim wanted to use a variety of colors along with unusual and unexpected patterns that reveal multicultural influences.

What is the best advice you have ever received?

Jimin A. Kim: What design is without effort, is in general seeing without pleasure.

Who are your favorite fashion icons and why?

J.A.K: Marcelo Burlon and Henrik Vibskov are my idols. They are especially strong in the menswear textile & graphic design fields.

 What is your dream job?

J.A.K: I’m going to be a Fashion Textile Designer, Art director

By: Faye Harris, MFA Fashion Journalism

Catching Up With Fashion Illustration Alumnus Danny Roberts

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Illustration by Danny Roberts.
A sketch by Roberts of the September 2007 collections at New York Fashion Week

A sketch by Roberts of the September 2007 collections at New York Fashion Week

Since completing his courses at the Academy in 2007, Roberts has racked up an impressive resume, including designing a line of T-shirts for Forever21, illustrating a mural for Tiffany & Co., and launching his own company, Igor+Andre. Perhaps one of his best-known illustrations is Roberts’ portrait of the late Alexander McQueen, which graced the window of the brand’s NYC store after the designer passed away and was later used for the cover of the London Sunday Times.

An illustrated portrait of Alexander McQueen by Danny Roberts.

An illustrated portrait of Alexander McQueen by Danny Roberts.

A former online student, Roberts’ burgeoning career as a fashion illustrator began during his school days. In September 2007, Roberts illustrated one look from each of the designers who presented at the Academy’s New York Fashion Week show in September of that year, and his work was printed and distributed to guests at the show.

Illustration by Danny Roberts.

Illustration by Danny Roberts.

A vocal supporter of the School of Fashion, we were pleased to have Roberts join us as a special guest for the 2015 Graduation Fashion Show in May. Prior to the fashion show Roberts took time to review the work of graduation students at the Portfolio Review, talking with them about their work and giving advice on how to succeed after graduation. “Being an online student, this was only my fourth visit to the school. I was so impressed and proud while I toured the school and saw the work of students,” Roberts said.

Illustration by Danny Roberts.

Illustration by Danny Roberts.

We caught up with Roberts to hear about his time at the School of Fashion, the launch of his successful company, advice for current students and what’s next for him.

Namrata Loka: How does it feel to be one of a select few enjoying success in the fashion industry?

Danny Roberts: From doing a mural for Tiffany & Co. in New York to being a guest at Tokyo Fashion Week, the journey has been amazing. I have had some incredible opportunities and have been able to travel to places I never imagined I would.

NL: How did you become interested in fashion?

DR: In junior high, I started a T-shirt company, which I guess was the start of my interest in fashion. As the little shirt company started to grow, my interest in designing clothes grew. I started designing clothes and taught myself how to sew. By the time I finished high school, I knew I needed help on developing my design skills, as well as help on the fashion business side of things. When it was time for college, I found the Academy of Art University and I knew it would be a fit.

 

A sketch by Roberts of the September 2007 collections at New York Fashion Week.

A sketch by Roberts of the September 2007 collections at New York Fashion Week.

NL: How did your interest shift from fashion design to fashion illustration?

DR: Funny enough, there was an exact moment when the light turned on in my head. It was at the end of my second year in school when I got my grades back on my Fashion Illustration 3 class, and my instructor had left a note that said, “Great work. Looking forward to seeing your work on the covers of Vogue in the near future.”  Up until that point, I knew my art looked a little different, but I wasn’t sure if that was a good thing or not. So, it meant a lot hearing that from my instructor.

Illustration by Danny Roberts.

Illustration by Danny Roberts.

NL: What advantages did you have being an online student?

DR: Online school was the best fit for me. I loved being an online student because it allowed me to learn at my own pace. For me, when I’m interested in something, I immerse myself in the subject matter. I was able to do that with online school. I would print out the full semester and read the all the material in a few days. Since I didn’t have to attend class in the traditional sense, I had more time to spend on the class itself. For the most part, it closely resembles my life now. Almost all of my jobs come from the Internet; the process of sending artwork to clients is just like submitting work for classes. In more than one way, online school prepared me for my Fashion Illustration career.

Danny Roberts' illustrated cover for 180 magazine issue 3.

Danny Roberts’ collaboration with Forever21 on the cover of 180 magazine issue 3.

NL: How did your time at the Academy shape your career today?

DR: The Academy of Art University is a remarkable school and without it, I would not have been able to do any of things that I am doing today. This is where I honed my drawing skills, and where I decided to take up Fashion Illustration. My instructors encouraged me to be a Fashion Illustrator, which I had not even considered before I started school at the Academy. Most importantly, not only was the School of Fashion the place where I developed the skills, it’s where I found the confidence that I could make a career out of my passions.

Danny Roberts and Executive Director Simon Ungless watch the dress rehearsal at September 2007 New York Fashion Week.

Danny Roberts and Executive Director Simon Ungless watch the dress rehearsal at September 2007 New York Fashion Week.

NL: Were there any standout professors or inspirational figures you met during your time in the School of Fashion?

DR: The school is a remarkable place because all my instructors had real world experience that they brought to the classroom. [Executive Director] Simon Ungless was one of the first people to believe in me. He encouraged me and gave me confidence that I could make it in the fashion industry. He also helped get me my first two jobs doing fashion illustration, illustrating the lookbook for the Academy’s senior show, and then designing and building the window display for a boutique. He’s been a great mentor and friend.

NL: Besides portraits and paintings, what do you do as an illustrator?

DR: It’s a huge range, including window displays, signature collections for Harajuku Lovers and Forever 21, IMG Models Show Package, creating 3D layered art… I even illustrated a children’s book. Fashion Illustration is one of those careers that your job description is pretty broad and changes with every project. That is what I love about it. I would go crazy if I had to keep doing the same type of work over and over. I mostly work doing specialty projects for different brands, which always gives me a lot of creative freedom.

Illustration by Danny Roberts.

Illustration by Danny Roberts.

NL: Tell us more about your company, Igor+Andre

DR: My brother David Roberts and I started Igor+Andre in 2008 as a blog where I shared my art – portraits, illustrations, paintings and all things creative. At first, I wasn’t sure if I could even make a living from it. I felt like the only way to make it was to try things that people hadn’t done before. That’s why my brother and I started Igor + Andre initially. The Blog became a platform to show my work and the processes I used creating my work. At that time, Igor + Andre was one of the first fashion illustration blogs, and we were surprised how quickly it grew.

Illustration by Danny Roberts.

Illustration by Danny Roberts.

NL: What’s next for you and Igor+Andre?

DR: My brother and I have been working on different projects. We are currently finishing up the first book in our fiction book series and I am almost done co-writing a musical soundtrack to the book. Lately, we have been doing a lot of fashion photography and blending it with illustration; it is interesting to experiment with blending these two disciplines.

Danny Roberts with a copy of 180 Magazine Volume 3, the cover of which was graced by Roberts’ collaboration with Forever2

Danny Roberts with a copy of 180 Magazine Volume 3, the cover of which was graced by Roberts’ collaboration with Forever2

NL: What advice would you give to an aspiring Fashion Illustrator?

DR: Learn how to render garments – it is a really important skill. Most importantly, be true to yourself and enjoy every moment of learning. Let art inspire you. It is easy to look at something you like and copy it and the way to stay unique is by being yourself.

Written by Namrata Loka


Alumni Update: Andrea Nieto

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Andrea Nieto during an interview with press at New York Fashion Week in February 2014.

Andrea_Nieto_01

While 2014 BFA Textile Design alumna Andrea Nieto was a student, her talent stood out and her high caliber work earned her numerous awards, such as Bentley Mills Portfolio Cash Award for Interior, Pointcarre Software Prize for Textile Design and RSA U.S. Student Design Awards.

Nieto's winning RSA textile designs.

Nieto’s winning RSA textile designs.

Her enthusiasm for fashion also showed in her Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall 2014 collection. She collaborated with Frank Tsai, M.F.A Fashion Design, on a menswear collection which was inspired by the mood and emotion of an international photography collection “Beauty in Decay,” as well as personal struggle, raw emotion, and the different stages of the healing process.

Andrea Nieto during an interview with press at New York Fashion Week in February 2014.

Andrea Nieto during an interview with press at New York Fashion Week in February 2014.

At the same time that Nieto was building her fashion knowledge as an undergraduate, she was also a star golfer on Academy of Art University’s golf team.

Now a year out from graduating from the School of Fashion, Nieto has found where her two passions– fashion and sports– intersect. We caught up with the designer to hear about her job at Adidas, how her time in the School of Fashion and on the golf team prepared her for the work world, and what’s next for her.

Fashion School Daily: Tell us about what you have been doing since graduation.

Andrea Nieto: I graduated from AAU and right away started my internship at Adidas with the innovation team. The internship lasted 6 moths and at the end they offered me a full time position. I still can’t believe I was given this opportunity and right now I’m learning so much by working with our engineering and biomechanics not to mention designers and developers that have years of knowledge of working in the sport industry.  This opportunity has been completely amazing and i’m enjoying everyday of this new challenge.

FSD: Last year you joined the design team at Adidas. What was the process like for getting the job? Did you actively seek out the position or did they contact you?

AN: This happened all so fast and in a crazy way. I met Andy Shearer, Senior Design Recruiter at Adidas years ago after my first runway show in San Francisco. A year after that show, Andy inquired about me and we got back in contact. I forwarded him my latest portfolio and within a couple of days I got an offer to start a 6 month internship at Adidas- Portland.

FSD: What drew you to Adidas?

AN: While designing at school and being part of an athletic team you start to think about how you could make your gear better and what you could improve. I have always loved sports and design , those are my two passions. When that opportunity happened I didn’t even had to think twice, I knew that this is what I wanted to do. I also grew up wearing red Adidas shoes with white stripes and I probably owned 3 pairs of the same shoe.

FSD: What is an average day like for you at Adidas?

AN: There are no average days! Every day is literally different. There’s sketching involved, emails, meetings,  sample making, traveling, working out, designing and collaboration.

FSD: Do you have any role models within the company?

AN: Yes, my whole team is composed of really talented and knowledgeable people.  I am also always inspired by all the designers and the work that they put up on the design walls.

FSD: Any funny stories about your time there so far?

AN: Not yet! But stayed tuned.

FSD: You’re not only a prize-winning designer, but you’re also an accomplished golfer. To many, fashion and sports seem totally opposite, yet you found a way to marry the two with your job at Adidas. Did you set out to find a job in sportswear?

AN: You know I really think I walked from one end of the spectrum to the complete opposite. In the world of fashion there’s a lot of freedom and in sports performance you have to make informed decisions that serve a specific purpose and will help the athlete perform better. However I see that right now fashion and sportswear are merging and waiting to meet in the middle of the spectrum. Not only we want to make great performing gear but we also want to make it beautiful and desirable.  So this is really exciting for me right now.

FSD: How do you feel your experience as an athlete has impacted your design role at Adidas?

AN: Being an athlete thought me discipline, time management, teamwork and leadership. Golf specifically thought me to be humble because in golf one day you can be at the top and the next day you can be at the very bottom, and that’s life. The only shot that you can control is the one you are standing on top of because the last one is already in the past and the next one doesn’t exist. Golf taught me to be present and take a day a time. I’m forever grateful for my coaches, teammates and sport directors giving me the opportunity to be part of the first women’s golf team at ART U.

FSD: As both a skilled golfer and a talented designer, how did you decide which to pursue as your career? Are you ever tempted to go pro in golf?

AN: Golf is amazing, a great challenge but I think I would hate the sport if it was my profession in life. I’m extremely happy to be able to follow my two passions right now sport and design.

FSD: What sparked your initial interest in fashion?

AN: My mother! She would sew all my halloween costumes and clothes growing up. Also my grandmother taught me to crochet, draw and all sorts of crafts. I guess the passion for making runs in the family.

FSD: What are your plans for the future? Do you plan to stay in sportswear or are you itching to try your hand at something different?

AN: The challenge right now is so big and I’m learning so much about materials, footwear, biomechanics, sport specific needs, etc that I only have time and all the passion in the world to get better every day at my job. I’m designing shoes now and I can only picture myself getting better and better at it. I can’t wait to see my first designs come out to the market.

FSD: Where do you find inspiration?

AN: The athletes, the sport culture,  the athlete’s love for the game, and the passion that there is in sport. I am inspired by the world and my passion lately is photography so I walk around with my camera and snap pictures of shadows, flowers, bridges, textures, colors, people and trends.

FSD: What advice would you give to current students?

AN:Take different classes from different majors. This really helped me to learned to do things differently from my classmates and to problem solve with new acquired tools.

FSD: Any fashion icons?

AN: I don’t know if this counts but I really appreciate and admire Bill Cunningham. I had the opportunity to meet him personally at the YMA-FSF gala last year in January. He rode his bike that night to the Gala event tho it was freezing cold.

 

Written by Yuna Choi

A Casual Dandy Lecture with Patrick McDonald

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Dandy Patrick McDonald with fashion merchandising students pose with his San Francisco Chronicle Style Section cover. Photo by Bob Toy.
Dandy Patrick McDonald with fashion merchandising students pose with his San Francisco Chronicle Style Section cover. Photo by Bob Toy.

Dandy Patrick McDonald with fashion merchandising students pose with his San Francisco Chronicle Style Section cover. Photo by Bob Toy.

On Monday, July 13th, famed dandy and fashion industry veteran Patrick McDonald came to The School of Fashion to give a brief lecture to merchandising students. Just the day before he visited the School of Fashion, McDonald– and his recent relocation from New York to San Francisco– had the honor of gracing the cover of the San Francisco Chronicle’s Style Section.

McDonald began with a brief history of his involvement in the fashion industry, filling students in on how his passion for fashion and self expression shaped his career in the industry. It comes as no surprise that McDonald’s love of fashion, which he said had begun in early childhood, influenced his choice of university. “I grew up in San Luis Obispo, and when it came time to choose a college Pepperdine University in Los Angeles was an obvious choice. It was the closest to great shopping,” said McDonald.

Dandy Patrick McDonald with Senior Director of Fashion Merchandising Keanan Duffty. Photo by Bob Toy.

Dandy Patrick McDonald with Senior Director of Fashion Merchandising Keanan Duffty. Photo by Bob Toy.

While in college McDonald had an experience that would shape the next several years of his life. When he and a few friends heard that Andy Warhol was in town they called every hotel asking for him and were eventually able to track him down. When McDonald and his friends met Warhol, the artist recommended that McDonald consider a move to New York to further pursue his passion for art and fashion.

Not one to shy away from advice from an artist and idol, McDonald moved to New York. His first job was atItalian fashion label Fiorucci’s  boutique, which was often called “the daytime Studio 54.” McDonald would eventually go on to work in the buying department at Barney’s.

Patrick McDonald at the Academy of Art University Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week show. Photo by Getty Images.As a New York City veteran, McDonald was able to give the class some insight into how the city has changed over the past couple of decades. “Fashion shows used to be very different; they weren’t in big venues, but instead were held in hotels and ballrooms. Now it’s all about shock value and being noticed.” In response to a student’s question about his feelings on shock value, the always fastidiously dressed McDonald replied, “Well, for me to have shock value I would have to wear a plain white T-shirt. That would probably get the cover of the Post. But for me, I don’t really like to dress for shock value. I dress for myself.”

Dandy Patrick McDonald and Keanan Duffty, front row at the Academy of Art University Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week show.

Dandy Patrick McDonald and Keanan Duffty, front row at the Academy of Art University Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week show.

And dress for himself he does. With inspiration spanning classics like James Cagney, Fred Astaire and Elizabeth Taylor, McDonald infuses tailored looks with an edginess and glam reminiscent of David Bowie and Studio 54 darlings. “My style has always been influenced by my surroundings, and what I make my surroundings. I’m inspired by classic movies, but also by a man on the street wearing a skirt.”

McDonald, who has been on both the best and worst dressed fashion lists (a fact he laughingly explained to the class), was sure to point out that expensive clothing and high-end labels are not the be all end all. “You know what I believe makes good fashion? A mix. It can be high and it can be low, it doesn’t matter as long as it looks good.”

Dandy Patrick McDonald gives feedback to fashion merchandising students on their group project. Photo by Bob Toy.

Dandy Patrick McDonald gives feedback to fashion merchandising students on their group project. Photo by Bob Toy.

After the lecture and Q&A drew to a close, McDonald reviewed the MFA FSH 632 Trend Analysis & Product Development group project. Instructor and Senior Director of Fashion Merchandising Keanan Duffty said of the project, “The challenge is for the class to work as a team, with a corporate structure of design, marketing, sales and ‘The Nose,’ all led by a CEO who schedules the timetable and deliverables on a class by class basis.”

For the project, the team created a fragrance called ‘Wild & Nature.’ In addition to developing the scent, students created a marketing plan, researched points of sale in the Bay Area and rendered a digital design of a bottle.

Photo by Bob Toy.

Photo by Bob Toy.

McDonald gave an early review of the project, which will be completed by the end of the Summer semester. McDonald had positive feedback, but urged students to be more wild and take full advantage of the name and DNA of the scent. Team leader Felicia Gillis said of McDonald’s input, “I think as a group we were all very grateful that he even took the time to talk to us and then go a step further to hear about our project. His main input was in regards to the group name, name, promotion and fragrance. The most impactful information was about our fragrance name ‘Wild & Nature.’ He told us that we weren’t representing the “wild” side of our fragrance. We all agreed that he was right. He pointed out the imbalance in between our name and promotion. He definitely influenced us to tap in to our more creative side and draw out a ‘sexier wild side.’ This was one of those rare experiences that we were fortunate to have even if they are only for a faux fragrance.”

Photos by

AMOUR A LA MEXICANA- Underneath Expectable Lingerie

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EVGENIA's F/W 2015/16
EVGENIA's F/W 2015/16

EVGENIA’s F/W 2015/16; Image via Iamevgenia.com; Photo by Kelly Puleio

For  brides that don’t settle for the “usual,” San Francisco based Lingerie Designer Stephanie Bodnar is your go to for that special night or a daily wear of vintage inspired lingerie. Bodnar is the creator of  EVGENIA a brand that is inspired by the 1920’s. Her pieces have french details, floral prints and color pallets that personally take me back to vintage photography and current colors we see in Mexican architecture and nature.

I recently had the amazing opportunity to interview Bodnar, and even though this time of the year is quite busy for her business she took some time to answer a few questions via email. As a Fashion Design Student I took the opportunity to ask Bodnar for advice in how to break in the fashion industry, and she of course provided me with great advice.

Below my interview you can find her campaign video and website for incredible Lingerie Wear, you won’t regret seeing what her creativity and hard work delivers.

Yesenia Franco: What products and/or services do you provide?

Stephanie Bodnar: I make fine lingerie for the modern heartbreaker. I specialize in silk pieces with French insertion lace detailing, an embellishment which was popular in the 1920’s. I also make ribbon corsets.

YF: How long have you been in business?

SB: I started my business as Honey Cooler Handmade in early 2011.

YF: How did you choose the name for your business?

SB: The first name, Honey Cooler Handmade, came from my love for the 1920’s – “honey cooler” is Deco-era slang for a kiss. My new name since my rebranding at the Fashion Incubator is Evgenia. Eugenia is my middle name and the name of my Ukrainian grandmother – I chose it because of its personal importance to me (it in fact, IS me), and its nostalgia for days gone by. It has an old word feeling which I adore and the “V” spelling lends an air of sexiness to the name as well!

YF: What is your marketing strategy?

SB: I sell online and in several boutiques across the country. I also have a small boutique within a boutique at the Artful Gentleman space in SoMA. I reach my customers through social media and word of mouth. I’ve had some lovely press pieces written about Evgenia over the years and those always help to bring an audience!

YF: What was the most difficult aspect of starting your business?

SB: Building a customer base – that is still a challenge for me! I started on Etsy where people tend to spend less money. My pieces are quite a bit more expensive than most of Etsy lingerie, so it’s hard to compete! Once I got into my first brick and mortar store, things started to pick up a bit for me. The transition of making one-of-a-kind pieces to actual collections with size runs was a huge challenge as well, but one that ultimately made it easier to reach out to boutiques.

YF: What is the biggest day-to-day challenge in operating your business?

SB: My biggest challenge is wrangling everything! I’m the only person running this business with the exception of an intern. I do absolutely everything, from designing to making samples, to hand grading my patterns, keeping my books, running sales and events, making my printed collateral, reaching out to boutiques, all social media, blogging, promotion, planning photo shoots… the list goes on and on. The biggest challenge is being able to tackle all these tasks, because truthfully nothing can get neglected, and although I love the design aspect, it’s only about 10% of the work I do.

YF: What is your biggest reward in operating your own business?

SB: Making sales and reaching customers! It’s so exciting to see your work validated by a purchase. It means you’re on the right track and that people understand and appreciate what you do!

YF: What advice would you give to young entrepreneurs?

SB: Be ready to be everything in your business and be ready to work a lot. I can’t speak to every entrepreneurial venture, but as far as fashion goes, ask yourself how much time you’re willing to sacrifice for your dream. Be honest with yourself. Fashion is not a 40 hour work week if you’re on your own. It’s much much more than that. I work basically all the time, 10-12+ hour days, often including weekends. There used to be a point when I really hated giving up my weekends for work. When I began to not mind, I knew I was doing the right thing. You should always be excited about what you do!

YF: Who or what inspires you to design?

SB: I love the aesthetics of eras gone by, so I often start my collections by looking at the silhouettes and graphic elements from those time periods. The 1920’s, 30’s and 40’s are my favorites for lingerie! I have some awesome books and online resources I start with and then find ways to reach a modern woman with silhouettes that are inspired by other eras.

Written by Yesenia Franco (Originally posted in WordPress)

Alumni Update: Eli Daniel Odisho

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Daniel Odisho; Image Courtesy of Daniel Odisho
Daniel Odisho; Image Courtesy of Daniel Odisho

Eli Daniel Odisho; Image Courtesy of Eli Daniel Odisho

Daniel Odisho's Design; Image Courtesy of Daniel Odisho

Eli Daniel Odisho; Image Courtesy of Eli Daniel Odisho

Eli Daniel Odisho came to Academy of Art University to earn a B.F.A. in Fashion Design, which he earned in 2012. He created a collection for the Graduation Fashion Show in 2012 and collaborated with B.F.A Textile Design Miriam Tolentino, who created unique denim textiles for their joint collection. Odisho also designed a UBIFRANCE-sponsored collaborative collection for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring 2013, which was featured in the San Francisco Chronicle Style Section. While working toward his undergraduate degree, Odisho started his professional career at BCBG Max Azria intern in 2012 while he was a student, and is currently working as an assistant designer of Women’s wear at Urban Outfitters, a position he has held since March 2013.
We caught up with Odisho to hear all about what working for Urban Outfitters is like, what inspires him, and what the future holds for this talented designer.
Daniel Odisho; Image Courtesy of Daniel Odisho

Eli Daniel Odisho; Image Courtesy of Eli Daniel Odisho

FSD: What have you been up to since graduation?

Eli Daniel Odisho: Since graduating from the Academy, I feel like life has been put on super speed! I lived in LA shortly while interning at BCBG, then I moved back home to spend time with my family, and soon after that I moved to Philadelphia to work for Urban Outfitters home office

FSD: What drew you to Urban Outfitters? What was the hiring process like?

EDO: Interviewing with Urban Outfitters happened very unexpectedly. I applied for a position while I was interning in LA. I never got a response so I just assumed they had filled the position. It wasn’t until December of 2012 that I heard back from them. I was asked to do a portfolio project for them, aimed toward their core customer. I had a preliminary Skype interview then I was flown out to Philadelphia to interview in person. The interview process happened all in one day, during that time I met with five different designers/directors. It was nothing like what I expected. Most of them wanted to see the project, but ultimately they all seemed to be looking for a team member that would work well with their current team. I had my interview and I felt good about how it went and by the time I had gotten to the airport to return back to CA, I had received a job offer.

Daniel Odisho's Design; Image Courtesy of Daniel Odisho

Eli Daniel Odisho’s Design; Image Courtesy of Eli Daniel Odisho

FSD: What is a typical day like for you at Urban Outfitters? What are you working on?

EDO: I am an Assistant Designer of Women’s Dresses, Rompers, and Skirts. For me, a typical day at URBN starts at around 8am. I get into the office, read emails from the night before concerning styles that are currently in development or production. At any given time we are working on three seasons. For example, we are finishing up Holiday, developing our Pre-Spring Capsules, and beginning the research and sketching of Spring. I attend fittings, work with pattern-makers on in house draped samples, dye fabrics and doctor samples, copying everything that ever needs to be copied. It is very fast paced and we work with a time sensitive calendar which is governed by production dates and delivery of product. The designing portion of my job usually happens at night at home in front of the TV. The one thing I will say is I work with pretty cool people. The work is very hard, but I laugh everyday with my team while we do it all.

FSD: Any unforgettable moments at Urban Outfitters? 

EDO: Honestly, there are so many funny stories. You have to think, I am with the same people all day everyday. They become family after a while. “The Dress Team” is notorious for being the loudest team, we are always laughing. It makes all the work we do more fun, because we are enjoying the creative process. Don’t get me wrong, there are stressful days and weeks where we have many long, all-day meetings, but we achieve so much that it is all worth it in the end.

Daniel Odisho's Design; Image Courtesy of Daniel Odisho

Eli Daniel Odisho’s Design; Image Courtesy of Eli Daniel Odisho

FSD: You were an intern for BCBG Max Azria when you were a student. Can you tell us a little bit about that internship? What were the biggest takeaways from the internship?

EDO: My internship with BCBG Max Azria was very eye opening for me. It was my first experience with corporate fashion, and in all honesty, I don’t think I was prepared for it. I worked on retracing patterns, helped with embellishment artworks, cut fabric, and a lot of other tasks. The photocopier was my best friend, mostly because I was always there. Before I had my internship, I thought a dress was made by one person. In corporate fashion a “dress in production” has probably been touched by at least seventy people before it ever even makes it to the stores.

FSD:Were you always interested in working as a designer for another company, or did you ever want to launch your own line?

EDO: I’ve always wanted my own line. However, having a successful fashion line takes a lot of money and is not for the faint of heart. I am learning so much at Urban Outfitters, I feel like I grow every day. I think this is the path I am supposed to be on now. I think about all the things I didn’t know before working here and I am glad that I am getting to learn so much about the fashion industry. I do my own stuff on the side. I’ll make a dress just because I wanted to and send it off to a friend to wear to an event. Maybe in the future I will have my own line, but I feel like I still have way more to learn first.

Daniel Odisho's Design; Image Courtesy of Daniel Odisho

Eli Daniel Odisho’s Design; Image Courtesy of Eli Daniel Odisho

Daniel Odisho's Design; Image Courtesy of Daniel Odisho

Eli Daniel Odisho’s Design; Image Courtesy of Eli Daniel Odisho

FSD: When you were a student in the School of Fashion, you created a collection for the Graduation Fashion Show in 2012, and created a UBIFRANCE-sponsored collaborative collection for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring 2013. Tell us a little bit about the process of creating a collection, especially one that will be seen by such a large audience.

EDO: My senior collection was inspired by the Virgin Mary and denim. I collaborated with Mariam Tolentino to create six looks made with hand-manipulated denim. The collection evolved as I made each piece. I think I resketched the line-up every week based on how the collection changed through the process. I thought it was the hardest thing I had ever done in my life! I would not have finished without the help of my instructor Sara Shepherd. I’ll never forget her general calmness around me. She knew I was on edge and she just helped me through it. I still keep the entire collection with me in my closet here in Philadelphia. I peak in on it from time to time. It’s a great memory of one of the best years of my life. Best, because I was taught by and worked next to some of the most talented people I have every met in my entire life. The dress I created for UBIFRANCE was a re-fabrication of one my dresses from my senior collection. It was such an honor to get to work on this collection with my classmates. The show in NYC was like a dream. Getting to see my dress go down the runway was so insane and I will never forget it. It was possibly one of the best moments of my life.

A look from Odisho’s 2012 Graduation Collection.

FSD: What sparked your initial interest in fashion?

EDO: I used to draw dresses at the kitchen table at my Grandma’s house. I used to take felt and make clothes for my Power Ranger toys. All my old socks got cut up and sewn into Spice Girls rag dolls. I never knew I could actually be a designer. I worked retail for a long time, but I knew I wanted to be the one making the clothes, not selling them. Now, styles I’ve designed are in stores around the country.

Daniel Odisho's Design; Image Courtesy of Daniel Odisho

Eli Daniel Odisho’s Design; Image Courtesy of Eli Daniel Odisho

Daniel Odisho's Design; Image Courtesy of Daniel Odisho

Eli Daniel Odisho’s Design; Image Courtesy of Eli Daniel Odisho

FSD:What is your favorite memory from your time at the School of Fashion?

EDO: The seniors were so crazy our year! We did some wild things in that sewing lab. We had sword fight with fabric bolts, we all randomly passed out in corners, we would go on “dates” (inside joke) and we each cried hysterically at one point or another. I think my favorite memories were the smoke breaks we all took. We were so exhausted that we couldn’t be fake. I feel like I had the most honest conversations with people during that time.

FSD: What has been the most challenging part of working in the fashion industry? What has made you improve the most to become a successful designer?

EDO: The most challenging part of working in the fashion industry is that it is all subjective. Everyone has an opinion on fashion. Everybody wants to critique your work. “Is that the right sleeve for that romper? Should it have a sleeve? I think the short looks too full in your sketch, The neckline needs to be more accommodating for various body types…” To create something that thousands of girls want and commit to buying is the biggest challenge I face everyday.  As far as improvement, I think being a good listener/observer inspires the most growth. These critiques cause you to start questioning yourself before someone else questions you. You start to self edit and try multiple options. I have observed fellow team members have great successes and failures, as well as experiencing my own. It’s not something you can learn in school. School gives you the tools you need to survive, drawing, sewing, and presenting, and then its up to you to use them.

Daniel Odisho's Design; Image Courtesy of Daniel Odisho

Eli Daniel Odisho’s Design; Image Courtesy of Eli Daniel Odisho

FSD: What advice would you give to students working on collections? Any advice for students trying to nab internships or enter the fashion workforce?

EDO: These are random thoughts, but I feel like they have helped me get where I have gotten.

  1. BE EAGER AND WILLING TO LEARN! That is what everyone looks for when hiring entry-level positions.
  2. Hand-flats are as important as they tell you they are.
  3. Work harder. Work faster. School is the only chance you have to completely do “YOU,” so go crazy.
  4. Collection feels like the most intense deadline in the world. It’s not, they get worse.
  5. Any experience is good experience.
  6. Smile when people are speaking to you, especially people that know more than you.
  7. Learn the business side of fashion, no one cares for a clueless designer. If you don’t know what is selling that probably means it’s not selling.
  8. DON’T WASTE TIME!

FSD: Where do you find inspiration?

EDO: I see and hear it everywhere. Sad songs and old tv shows have helped me make some of my best works.

Daniel Odisho's Drawing; Image Courtesy of Daniel Odisho

Eli Daniel Odisho’s Drawing; Image Courtesy of Eli Daniel Odisho

FSD: Who is your role model?

EDO:I have no idea. I don’t think I’ve ever landed on one specific person. I try to learn as much as I can from anyone in this industry. My boss Andrea Muccino is pretty inspiring. I have learned so much from her and her career.

FSD: What is next for you?

EDO: I love my job at Urban Outfitters. Right now, it is where I need to be. On the side, I am also working on costumes for a performance piece called “Purgatory” created by the very talented artist and all around creative genius Gunnar Montana. “Purgatory” is to debut the September at the Philadelphia FRINGEARTS Festival.

Written by Yuna Choi

NYFW Spring 2016 Designer: Ruone Yan

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Illustrated line up by Ruone Yan
Ruo Yen; Photo by Bob Toy

Ruone Yan; Photo by Bob Toy

Ruone Yan, BFA Menswear Design, was born and raised in Chongqing, China. As an undergraduate, Yan’s work has been shown at the 2015 Graduation Fashion Show in San Francisco.

Illustrated line up by Ruone Yan

Illustrated line up by Ruone Yan

Yan’s menswear collection is fabricated from jersey, leather, and beige-toned canvas that she custom dyed with oolong tea. Of her inspiration, Yan tells us, “My inspiration is from the Cephalotus, also known as the Venus Flytrap. I wanted to capture the idea of the insects being trapped within the Cephalotus with my collection. Outside, the insects are vulnerable to other elements of danger even though they aren’t being slowly ingested. So, are the insects safe or in danger within the body of the plant?”

Yan’s collection shows her inspiration with cocoon-like layers, and the monochromatic palette focuses attention on the innovative silhouettes.

Mood board by Ruone Yan

Mood board by Ruone Yan

Fashion School Daily: What is the best advice you have ever received?

Ruone Yan: Whatever it is—bad or good—at least do it and show it to my design teacher.

FSD: What is your style motto?

RY: For myself, I always try to protect and maximize to hide myself; for my design, it’s like a way to vent.

FSD: Who are your favorite fashion icons and why?

RY: ISSEY MIYAKE, he creates the new concept of fashion and greatly shows eastern elements to the world.

 

Written by Yuna ChoiBFA Merchandising

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