On Saturday, March 7, 2015 at 7:00 PM, Camelia Skikos, part time instructor in the School of Fashion, and Dahae Kim, 2009 B.F.A. Menswear Design Alumna, debuted their Fall/Winter 2015 collaborative collection at Concept Los Angeles Fashion Week. This was the first time these two San Francisco designers have collaborated. While staying true to their signature styles and tailoring while sharing the inspiration of the art of Victor Vasarely, they investigated ways of rendering the concept of duality, using techniques involving geometric shapes, contrasting fabrics like silk and wool, soft and hard, shiny and matte.

The show garnered attention from Women’s Wear Daily, the Los Angels Times, SF Racked, and other publications.

In 2003, Camelia Skikos moved to San Francisco where she accepted a position as a head designer at Levi Strauss. During that time, she also designed for GAP, and began teaching Fashion Design in the School of Fashion . She launched her eponymous label in 2010 and won the San Francisco Award for Best Women’s Wear Designer in 2011.

Originally from South Korea, WHICHKIM’s creator Dahae Kim received a B.F.A. in Menswear Design from the Academy of Art University in 2009. She received a scholarship from the CFDA for her work as a student, and in 2012 won the San Francisco Award for Best Emerging Menswear Designer of the Year. She has also taught fashion design at the Raffles International College in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.

In addition to your collaborative inspiration of the art of Victor Vasarely, what else inspired you for this collection?

Dahae Kim: This collection began with my inspiration of a trip to London, how I felt at that time, what I was going through, and how London healed me. I kept thinking about every spot I have been to, the smell of London, the clouds, and my feeling during the trip. 
London came to me as a strong, calm and determined city. And the layers of clouds were to me like layers of our thoughts and feelings. 
I wanted to translate that in a strong and sharp figure in calm attitude with layers of grey scale. I focused on the shape of lines, a strong contrast of black and white, and layers of details.

Camelia Skikos: Besides Victor Vasarely, I was inspired by Bridget Riley and the idea of duality in general. I interpreted my thoughts and views on this matter trough my choices of fabrics, shapes and colors. Using techniques involving geometric shapes, contrasting fabrics such as silk and wool, soft and hard, shiny and matte, I was trying to investigate possible ways of rendering the concept of duality. Besides contrasts like black/white, soft/hard, curvy/angular, I also wanted to add a little more dimension to my collection by adding the masculine/ feminine contrasting element. That is when I thought of including some menswear pieces and I started to collaborate with Dahae. She was my student a few years ago and I remembered that she always had very strong and similar esthetics as mine and she was very adaptable and fast.

Tell us about the collaboration process of Camelia Skikos + WHICHKIM.

Dahae Kim: When I spoke to Camelia, she had a black and white color story with contrast ideas as well so the collaboration was made easier. I designed my collection and she did as well, we showed each other our collections, got the ideas from our visions, and edited together. Camelia challenged me, which was great for me. Our design process was to share fabrication and design ideas to have a cohesive collection. Her understanding in my vision and my idea of tailoring was very appreciative. This is my first time collaborating with another designer, and especially with a womenswear designer. I must say it has more benefits than challenges when both designers have a similar style and an understanding of the other designer’s aesthetic. No one tried to change the other designer’s original ideas.  It was simply editing fabrication and shape of line down to emerge. Overall, WHICHKIM’s vision and style was well expressed so I am happy.

Camelia Skikos: I wanted to work with a menswear designer that has a good understanding of the design process and who could also adapt to my design philosophy and be fast in the same time as I had a deadline to be at LAFW. I showed Dahae the inspiration images, my sketches of the designs I did for womenswear and we talked about the concept and the ideas for this collection. She was very responsive and came up with great ideas for menswear that would fit with my collection. We also worked on editing and making everything cohesive. Although she was in Korea at the time, we communicated very well via Skype and email, and in just a few weeks she had finished everything in time for the LAFW.

We also collaborated with FYUSE, a company that sponsored our participation in LAFW. I always like to collaborate with other designers or artists as it brings more dimension and something new to each collection.

In a past collection, I collaborated with another alumni from Academy of Art University, Milos Vlaski, who does photography. He designed the textile for my SS 2014 collection. He studied cinematography and he finished M.F.A. in 2008. He designed the fabrics for this collection and also made a cool video. I introduced him to the Fyuse team so he is now working with them doing all their videos, Fyuses and photography. He was also with us at LAFW to shoot our collection for Fyuse. Lastly, the styling of our collection was done by Liz Baca who is currently teaching styling at the Academy of Art University. She was styling our entire collection at the LAFW and also for our photo shoots.

Website: Camelia Skikos

Instagram: @cameliaskikos

Website: WHICHKIM

Instagram: @whichkim_official

The designers: From left: José Dojaquez, 2014 BFA Knitwear Design, Jordan Rae Epstein, 2014 BFA Childrenswear Design, and Yuko Okudaira, 2014 BFA Fashion Design.

Photos by Rob Curry.

Every year a group of designers from the graduating class at the School of Fashion are granted the opportunity to share their work in front an esteemed audience at the Graduation Fashion Show in San Francisco. From that group,  a select crop of recipients are awarded the Paris Sister City Scholarship Exchange, which is a foreign exchange opportunity for student designers to study in Paris at Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne or Studio Berçot. Nine months into their year-long exchange program, 2014 Paris Sister City Scholarship Exchange students Jordan Rae Epstein, 2014 BFA Childrenswear Design; José Dojaquez, 2014 BFA Knitwear Design; and Yuko Okudaira, 2014 BFA Fashion Design, fill us in what they’ve been up to overseas.

Malcolm Thomas: How is Paris?

José Dojaquez: Paris is truly amazing. It is such a beautiful and dynamic city with many things to do and new people to meet. Sometimes it’s easy to take living here for granted, but once in a while, when I get some free time, I stop and just look around. Walking down the Seine with the sunset in the background has been one of the most amazing things I have ever experienced!

Yuko Okudaira: Paris is gorgeous. I love it especially at a night, and in the rain.

Jordan Rae Epstein: I love it. Paris is incredibly beautiful and inspiring. Once José and I found an apartment, signed for a bank, and received a French cell phone (essentially became a documented person), it’s been gravy. I am finally getting the hang of school, I’m not afraid of grocery shopping, and have met some amazing people. I feel extremely lucky to have this opportunity here and hope to stay after I complete the school year.

The designers: From left: José Dojaquez, 2014 BFA Knitwear Design, Jordan Rae Epstein, 2014 BFA Childrenswear Design, and Yuko Okudaira, 2014 BFA Fashion Design with a friend at a Halloween party in Paris.

MT: What is your favorite thing about being in Paris?

JD: I think so far my favorite thing about Paris is the friends I’ve managed to make. People don’t give Parisian people enough credit. So far I’ve had little trouble with them, and I’ve generally found that I really like the people here.

YO: I love when it’s fashion week. You see models and the most fashionable people on the streets.

JRE: Walking around. French architecture, streets, monuments, etc., have a much deeper and richer history in comparison to the United States. To me, everything looks like a movie and has a romantic charm.

Yuko Okudaira, 2014 BFA Fashion Design, relaxing on a bench in Paris.

MT: What is the most exciting thing that has happened to you in Paris?

JD: The most exciting thing that has happened to me in Paris is probably seeing Karl Lagerfeld getting out of his car. Sounds a bit silly, but it was literally my first week in Paris and I was very star-struck.

YO: Seeing Pete Doherty everyday. He lived around corner from my first apartment in Pigalle.

JRE: A few things:

1. When my “dossier” (portfolio) was chosen for display at my school’s open house. My project “flou” (creative cutting) will be presented alongside a few others for the public and industry visitors to see.
2. Riding on my boyfriend’s motorcycle for the first time. One of our first dates was spent taking a tour of Paris (cliché…perhaps). Stupidly, I was trying to fulfill my Parisienne fantasies of riding in the back of a motorcycle wearing a skirt that would flow in the wind—a (sort of) Carrie Bradshaw moment…poor choices. Typical American.
3. I am thrilled to be interning for Saint Laurent during Paris Fashion Week. These types of opportunities are not as easily available in the US and are especially rare if you are living in San Francisco. I am looking forward to helping in the showrooms as well as observing the whole process.

MT: Have you traveled to other cities?

JD: So far I’ve only been to Antwerp. I went there with a friend who goes to the Royal College of Fine Arts there and I loved the city. He managed to get me a private tour of the school, which was very inspiring. At some point I thought about going to this school, but it’s a four-year program and I think I’m very done with school now, haha.

YO: I haven’t.

JRE: London! The city was such a nice break from school and revived me after feeling overwhelmed with the rapid adjustment. I am planning a few trips for the spring and summer. Right now, it’s looking like Berlin, Amsterdam, all over Italy, and Nice.

MT: How is the school compared to the School of Fashion at AAU?

JD: School here is extremely different than the way it is in San Francisco. People are a lot more relaxed, but that’s not always a good thing. I’ve learned that it is a very French thing to change up schedules and classes without enough notice. It is also very fast-paced. We do entire projects in about one week and then move onto the next one. I’m not enjoying this very much as I feel I haven’t really been getting a lot of feedback, whether it is good or bad. The great thing about our school here, however, is that it is very well connected and they offer you many opportunities. Right now I’m working as a teacher assistant in the school, helping students from the first year do some knits and crotchet. It is very amazing to be able to have an opportunity like this!

YO: It’s different. It’s more relaxed and unstructured.

JRE: There are many similarities and differences, as with anything. I would say that it is a 50/50 split. Both schools have high expectations, a strong student body, and the drive towards preparing their students to be industry ready.

ECSCP is very technical. The students excel in the draping and sewing classes, finding new ways to cut and create new forms. I was beyond impressed with everyone’s jacket after our first hand-in. The skill level was so inspiring and definitely put a fire under my ass!

ECSCP demands more sewing, samples, and technical process work, whereas AAU required much more drawing, storytelling, and computer work. Process is key in both schools but organized differently. My portfolio from the Academy is much more consolidated in comparison to my developing dossier at ECSCP. My AAU sketchbooks were personalized “mind dumps” of images/illustrations, fabric samples, color swatches, sewn samples, etc.—however I wanted to organize it was acceptable. Chambre Syndicale requires an organized research binder, which then merges into a condensed dossier, focusing and reflecting your process work. It was challenging at first to adapt to a new way of thinking, but I am beginning discover a happy medium that I believe has begun to strengthen my portfolio.

Yuko Okudaira, 2014 BFA Fashion Design, modeling in a student fashion show .

MT: What do you miss most about San Francisco?

JD: I miss everything about San Francisco. I miss the food, the places, the clubs, the people. Most of all, though, I miss my friends from there.

YO: I miss the weather, the fog, people, energy, dogs in parks, good cheap food: tacos, donuts, Saigon sandwiches, Chinese food, etc.

JRE: I miss being so close to my friends and family as well as the [easy-going lifestyle].

MT: Favorite memory of the School of Fashion at AAU?

JD: My favorite memory is definitely seeing my collection walking down the runway. That was such a big sigh of relief when it was all done and it was just amazing to be able to go have a celebratory drink after without having to worry about deadlines.

YO: I miss working late at the Polk Street building. I miss my friends in the School of Fashion.

JRE: I loved my final year at AAU and creating my senior collection. I found the year to be the most exciting, rewarding, and creative year in school. We had such a solid group of graduates that year and many hilarious moments in the 5^th floor studio. On top of that, watching the children walk down the runway affirmed my desire to want to continue in design.

MT: When do you return to the US and what are your plans when you return?

JD: So far I have no plans to return. I’m definitely thinking about staying in Europe, possibly Stockholm, Barcelona or Berlin. Of course, staying in Paris for as long as I can is the goal, but if not, I think I want to go back to live in Mexico, since I haven’t been living there for almost eight years.

YO: I don’t know when I will be returning to the US. After I finish with school in Paris, I’d like to get an internship here and will come back to the States after.

JRE: At the moment, I have no immediate plans to move back. I would love to extend my stay and try to find work.

MT: Any advice for the next group going to Paris?

JD: Definitely know French. At Studio Berçot they will not speak to you in English. Making friends that can translate for you is the best option, but being able to communicate ideas is extremely hard if you’re not very comfortable with the French language. You’ll also have to have a very thick skin because the way they design in Paris is very different from the way they do in SF. You will definitely reconsider your design aesthetics. Just have a very open mind.

JRE: If you can invest your time and money into French lessons, do so. Look into housing options prior to arriving. The apartment market is incredibly competitive and difficult as a foreign student. Do not adhere to cultural stereotypes. Be tolerant of things that may feel different—keeping an open mind and not taking things personally is the key to success in a foreign country. Read about the French education system in comparison to American schooling. There is a huge difference in the way that the classroom is run, grades are marked, your relationships with professors, etc. If you have a better understanding of the differences from the get-go, you will ease right in. Thicken your skin and be able to have a sense of humor.

Au- revoir!

By: Malcolm Thomas

Sherise Eways, 2007 MFA Fashion Design Alumna

With her jewelry line She.Rise sold in over 60 stores nationwide, 2007 MFA Fashion Design alumna Sherise Eways isn’t holding back when it comes to planning her future. Inspired by Eways’ interest in the inherent healing properties of natural materials, She.Rise jewelry collection is a way for the designer to express her passion for freedom, individuality and femininity.

Large Cuffs Collection

“She.Rise is a line of handmade, healing, fashion forward bracelets made by me in collaboration with Swarovski Crystal International. I use Swarovski Crystal, copper and Italian leather. The copper magnets are extremely strong and bearing on good health & circulation.” Eways explains the benefits that come from incorporating magnets and copper, “Studies have shown magnetic bracelets to have health benefits. With continued use, these include effects on physical and mental well being. Copper is an essential nutrient, playing a vital role in keeping bones, skin, brain, blood vessels and immune system strong and healthy.”

What Sherise Eways had to say was inspirational, proving she’s more than just a talented designer; she’s also an exceptionally caring person. Find out how Sherise finds time to give back during her jam-packed days and the advice she has to give to current students.

JW: Why the name She.Rise?

SE: I’ve always enjoyed the playfulness of the way my name is spelled and the inspirational aspect of it. For me, it was a way to create a brand name with an optimistic association for myself and others.

Jw: Last year you were in over 60 stores nationwide, what are your retail plans for 2015?

SE: This year we are working on expanding throughout the Midwest and East Coast, interested in high-end boutiques and jewelry stores, mainly focusing on the small, well curated, artisanal businesses.

JW: Tell us about your collection. What prompted you to go into accessories?

SE: After graduating from AAU, I managed a Hayes Valley boutique for five years and began to study what our customer was purchasing. The brands that I noticed to have consistent and straightforward sell through were making accessories, so I was inspired to make samples and start wearing them.

JW: You have had a relationship with Swarovski since using their crystals in your thesis collection for the AAU February 2008 Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week show, how did that come about?

SE: While in school, I worked as an assistant jewelry designer and was able to establish a relationship with the U.S. Swarovski Headquarters, I proposed a sponsorship and after meeting in person, they agreed to help me achieve my vision within the collection by sponsoring products for me to design with. Today, I am business partner with them promoting that my product is made with authentic Swarovski elements.

JW: Where do you find inspiration?

SE: I tend to research just about everything under the sun.  But most importantly, I love to research the relationship between technology and nature, because these two things are constantly influx with each other so that there is a consistent communication of change, its fascinating.  Like fashion is ever changing, I’m inspired by the evolution of things. This line of jewelry is especially inspired by freedom, strength and femininity.

JW: What is next for you and your line for 2015?

SE: Slowly and steadily, I am branching out to make this a full accessory line, I have plenty of design ideas for leather goods, such as handbags, belts, as well as incorporating precious metals to increase the specialness of the She.Rise jewelry line.

JW: What is the funniest thing that has happened recently in your business?

SE: My line began as a line of wrap bracelets connected by magnets. The magnets that I use are quite strong so I’ve received numerous photos from my customers of their magnets picking things up such as metal plated utensils!

JW: When was the first time you recognized your interest in fashion?

SE: I began to sketch clothing at the age of six years old and at that time I was living with my grandfather who was a tailor and pattern maker, so he began to see my sketches and make my clothes for me. I started going to first grade in some of my clothes that I drew and he custom made for me! I never lost touch with it, always sketching my way through school and eventually into the industry.

JW: What is your favorite memory from your time at the School of Fashion?

SE: At the time, the long hours and late nights of pattern making and sewing seemed miserable, but that is what I miss the most… learning how to work very hard on my vision and finally seeing an end result. All of that time reworking my projects really paid off. Especially the memory of working alongside such an amazing group of creative peers from all over the world, I made some of the greatest friends at the School of Fashion crunching late at night.

JW: What is your favorite memory of being in New York Fashion Week?

SE: So many great memories, it’s hard to say. Somewhere in-between the final stages of accessorizing and finishing the look of my collection to the moment that I was backstage in the tents at Bryant Park. I recall one moment I was holding my breath and 15 minutes later exhaling with relief!  Smiling to myself, thinking what an accomplishment!

JW: What was the hardest fashion lesson you’ve learned?

SE: I’ve learned that through the hardships of rejection, humility and the exhaustion of burying my head in hard work, I have to always pick myself up after the trivial life lessons and keep looking ahead on my journey, whereas I’m finally starting to see a little light!

JW: Any ‘insider information’ from the fashion industry to share with fashion students today?

SE: The knowledge of business is as important as the design. When I started working in a boutique, I will never forget the owner saying to me, ” You just got an MFA in Design, well I am about to give you a PHD in business.”

JW: What advice would you give to students?

SE: If you work on it every day…. your work will improve and eventually you will have discovered your success, because hard work pays off!

She.Rise is sure to add a touch sparkle to any woman’s wardrobe!

By Jeanie Walsh, MFA Fashion Journalism

View of NYC from Teen Vogue.

The 10th annual Teen Vogue Fashion University was held at Conde Nast’s new headquarters located at One World Trade Center in NYC. The event, which offered three majors, rounded up some of fashion’s biggest players and influencers including Micelle Pham, Leandnre Minie, Who What Wear‘s Co-Founders Kathirne Power and Hillary Kerr, Jessica Simpson, top bloggers, a panel of Teen Vogue editors and other industry professionals.

The three-day event started with at kick-off party at Express in Times Square where students mingled with the magazine’s Editor-In-Chief, Amy Astley, and Style Features Director, Andrew Bevan. Classes were then held on the 64th and 65th floors of the building, which featured a lobby that celebrated the release of  the new Cinderella. Specialty designs from Eddie Parker, Zac Posen and Coco Rocha were on display as were sketches by Donald Drawertson and Charlotte Tibury. The utterly inspiring and posh eventwas organized by Teen Vogue and drew students from across America and neighboring countries. The seminar series allowed fashion insiders to share their career-launching tales, current ventures, personal antidotes and advice with aspiring fashion hopefuls.

Teen Vogue Fashion University Panel

Below are my top 10 take aways from the event, which I hope you’ll also find informative!

1) “Have a knowledge of many things.”- Vashtie Kola (Director, Filmmaker, Artist, Designer, Creative Consultant and DJ)

The multi-credited and achieved artist, Vastie Kola, stressed the importance of having many facades in order to reach peak success. Personal and passionate interests should be taken seriously as they can differentiate you from the pack, while showing your dedication to one aspect of life outside of fashion. Knowing a second language or embracing different cultures might just be the extra key to propel you into a job or opportunity other than what you originally sought after. Kola shared that her love of Jordan Shoes eventually lead to a collaboration, making her the non-athlete to design a shoe for the line. Being a well-rounded individual is causally stated, but actually adopting the passion for a new subject, area of design, social movement, underground artist or technological movement can make you a better marketable and knowledgeable individual.

2) “Team over idea.”- Jens Grede (Co-Founder of Fame Denim)

The über famous denim company’s co-founder spoke on building a brand in three years. Grede highlighted the value of execution. He stated that an ‘A’ idea with a ‘B’ team is a ‘C’ idea to account for the lack of execution of a brilliant idea. Rather a ‘B’ idea with an ‘A’ team is an ‘A’ idea. He noted that many people have creative ideas, but that having ideas without a team to bring visions to life isn’t truly a great idea, it’s just a thought.

3) “Marketing equals telling true stories.”- Jens Grede (Co-Founder of Fame Denim)

The man who choose Karlie Kloss as his muse and brand ambassador repeated over and over that selling a brand requires telling the truth. He added that in order to have a good market for your company you must craft a good product, which is true as great marketing comes from the ability to tell a true story. No one would ever buy polyester for the price of cashmere and the same goes for a brand starting out. Having a great product or design at the right place and the right time, that is of good quality and execution, will make for great marketing. Consumers crave products which promise qualities showcased in marketing ventures. Adhering to honesty will not only make your brand good, but will make it desirable.

4) “Find and execute internships in different areas.” -Miceala Erlanger (Stylist)

The famed stylist of Lupita Nyong’o, Oliva Munn, Jared Leto and Jaime Foxx is most definitely not a one-sided expert. Miceala emphasized the value of learning an array of skills from different departments within the fashion sphere. Internships offer the time to learn and meet credited professionals within an industry. Understanding the fashion world should not be narrowed down solely to your desired position. Working in public relations, sales and marketing will make you a well-rounded player in the industry with the knowledge and experience to back your understanding.

5) “It’s about doing it.”- Miceala Erlanger (Stylist)

Upon realizing that life in the medical field wasn’t her forte, Miceala made the jump to what she’d always found in her heart to be calling her name. While many people resort to dreaming and planning the ideal job, project or  life, it really comes down to doing it. Jumping off the cliff of fear and into the life you want can only be done by you. Going after what you want is essential for self success and while you may weigh pros from cons in any big decision, just doing it and finding out what is to come after you’ve made the move is utterly rewarding. Miceala said she’s never looked back.

7) “The importance of parents. ” -Zac Posen (Designer)

The modern American fashion designer, CDFA Perry Ellis Award Winner, Project Runway judge and Brooks Brother creative director spoke of his journey to success. Upon leaving Central Saint Martins in London and gaining attention for his work, Posen returned to his childhood home in NYC. He turned his parent’s family room into a workshop where he created his first collection alongside his small, but mighty, team. Posen credits his artistic father and supportive mother for helping him pursue his gift and get his company off the ground at such a young age. Posen spoke of his tireless work nights sleeping on the couch along with his team in his early days as a key to his launch and success.

Zac Posen

8) “Don’t let the fear of not being picked up keep you from believing you will.”- Jodi Snyder (Co-Founder and President of Dannijo)

Danielle Synder and Jodi Synder Morel founded the stylish cool girl jewelry line Dannijo in 2008. Finding a young love for jewelry making, the sisters began crafting items with their father’s medial instruments. The duo sold their pieces to fellow piers and to small local boutiques where they began to discover a following. Upon graduating college and landing corporate jobs, the sisters decided to go after their young love in the pursuit of building their business, only allowing themselves six months to get the company off the ground. They created each piece by hand during their early NYC days and spent immense amount of time contacting department stores, small retailers and other fashion outlets. Jodi spoke of her sister Danielle’s fearless personality, which eventually landed them a spot on the Bergdoff Goodman sales floor. Her initiative to reach out to buyers at BG resulted in an instant partnership. Jodi spoke of heart and timing being ideal factors for their company’s breakout success.

9) “Sense of Style.”- Rebecca Minkoff (Designer)

What does Rebecca Minkoff look for when she interviews potential employees? Personal style and a sense of fashionable instinct. Nothing is more unflattering or ill-fitting when your not dressing as you.

10) “Keep reading.”- Brandon Maxwell (Stylist)

Lady Gaga’s red glove stressed the importance of reading often. Discovering a favorite artist, authoror director not only allows you to find inspiration and expand your creative knowledge, but it can be handy in conversion. Connecting with someone over an article in The Wall Street Journal may lead you to a relationship you might not have had. In addition, having a go-to designer which you’ve followed and admired allows you to draw references and really follow a major player in fashion. Having the knowledge of the designer’s inspiration for the collection, their outside likes, past or current collaboration projects and their overall aesthetic is important. It’s impossible to know the ins and outs of the many hundreds of designers, but having the knowledge of a handful designers can redefine and narrow your own creative taste. With stylists’ abilities to pick and choose from many designers and their work, having a favorite can minimize the overwhelming wave and allow one to dive deep into one’s work, so choose wisely.

Stacy Bledsoe (Left)

Written By: Stacey Bledsoe, B.F.A. Fashion Styling, staceybledsoestylist.com

Jinah Oh, Academy of Art University Fashion Marketing professor Image: courtesy of Jinah Oh

While the adage “the customer is never wrong” may seem worn, School of Fashion fashion marketing professor Jinah Oh shares why it’s still as relevant as ever. Recently back from hosting a two day lecture and workshop at the prestigious Seoul National University College of Engineering, Oh explained her philosophy on: consumer trends, the rising Korean fashion market, the marriage of tech and fashion and the upside to being a fashion student in San Francisco.

Malcolm Thomas: Can you tell me a little bit about the lecture and workshop you attended at Seoul National University?

Jinah Oh: Seoul National University is a university like Stanford or Harvard. It’s a traditional university. The engineering school over there is a very prominent engineering school in Korea. There was a visiting professor from Stanford who was in Palo Alto. He was involved in a start-up with [some] of his students. (I’m involved with a lot of fashion tech start ups). I was introduced as a mentor for this start-up team to help them understand the U.S. market and the U.S. consumer. So, we worked together last year for about six months and the professor realized how important understanding the market was. For engineers it was a strange concept- they are always so focused on the product and the technology. They don’t really care about the market needs or the market demands. He wanted his students to be able to understand the different markets. So, when he went back to Korea he created a special course, it was not a core course but it was open to all engineering students. When I was there we had approximately 35 to 36 students. The course was called ” Innovative Engineering Design”. I did two full days of workshops and lectures about customer driven design. My main message was: the users are not engineers. We don’t care how complicated this process is. For us, it’s can we use it? Is it useful?

MT: Can you break down your time there?

JO: The first day I had the lecture, me and a UX (User Experience) designer went together. The first day we focused on the concept. Who is the customer? What kinds of things do you need to know about the customer? The second day was a workshop. They divided into teams and started working on a product. They had to identify some customer issues and customer problems and based on their observations and research they had to think about what kind of product they could make.

Oh lecturing at Seoul National University. Image: courtesy of Jinah Oh

MT: What is the key information that fashion students and fashion professionals can take away from this?

JO: The last day when I asked the group about anything they learned or anything they’re still not sure about, one of the girls asked the question: “But I don’t know everything, how can I do this? How can I create a product the customer needs if I don’t know everything?” What I said is something that applies to any field, not just fashion: you work as a team. A team is really important. Especially today, there’re so many things you need to know, not just good design, but where you’re going to produce. Are you going to produce in Thailand, or are you going to produce in China or Mexico? Not everyone knows everything. So, working with a team is really critical wherever you are. Secondly, a good design doesn’t necessarily mean a product will be sold. It’s about no matter what you make understanding what a customer wants and needs.  Customer focus, working as a team and [having an understanding] of many different areas are two things that I think are important.

MT: Being Korean yourself, how would you compare the Korean fashion industry to the rest of the industry? What do you think that people living in other parts of the world could learn from the South Korean fashion market?

JO: The Korean market cares about quality. Quality is really important. The U.S. market is more individualistic. I think it’s changing a little bit because nowadays if a celebrity wears something everybody tries to wear similar things. That was really strong in Korea, historically, that group mentality. They care about quality and the influence of certain trends are really huge. They [share] a less individualistic aesthetic but they’re very well informed about fashion. If I go back to Korea, nowadays, I don’t even know some of the brands that they carry in the department stores. That kind of knowledge about fashion in a small country like Korea is amazing.

MT: Is there anything else you’d like to add?

JO: It is really interesting to me to work with other people. When I show [people] what’s happening in the fashion world with the combination of tech like the Burberry hologram show in Beijing… it happened a while ago, but it still wows people in other industries. I think it is interesting to see how other areas actually merge with each other. It’s not just fashion people working with fashion people [anymore]. Opening Ceremony is working with Intel to make a wearable.

MT: Yeah, that watch.

JO: The previous president of Burberry now works at Apple. I think that is very “happening” concept. Most of the people who work in start-ups that I meet here, they’re somehow involved in the fashion industry, but they’re mostly not from fashion. They’re MBA graduates, they’re engineers. Fashion companies are not run by fashion people anymore.

MT: Fashion and tech are synonymous now.

JO: Yeah. Exactly. It’s a great opportunity for our students also. They don’t have to work for a traditional fashion company only. There are so many opportunities, especially in San Francisco.

By: Malcolm Thomas

Fall 2014, BFA Web Design New Media alumnus Minh Tran. Image: courtesy of Minh Tran

Web Design New Media 2014 graduate Minh Tran has never been afraid to speak his mind and follow his heart. With fervor, Tran realized early on in his college career that while he was not a fashion major, he had an unshakeable knack for the industry. A former Beyond the Front Row board member and closet fashion illustrator, Tran has been working backstage at New York Fashion Week every season since 2010 and spends his free time sketching the glamazons that drip from his colorful imagination. He sat down with FSD to talk life post graduation.

Malcolm Thomas: What have you been doing since you graduated in December of 2014?

Minh Tran: I am currently the studio manager and in-house visual designer for a luxury fitness center specializing in mind, body and soul. Ascend Body clientele include: fashion models, techies of San Francisco, and working professionals around the Financial District.

MT:What do you love about your job?

MTran: What I love about my job is the fact that I can use my skills from new media to create promotional ads for the social media platform.

MT: What is your average day like?

MTran: My day consists of customer care, social media ads, photo-shoots, reaching out to the community, brand marketing, and yoga!

MT:  We love your illustrations! When did you realize that you loved to illustrate?

MTran: I never knew that I could illustrate but have always had a passion for fashion. Being in the new media department, we were trained to be on the computer all the time. I decided to take an elective class in fashion illustration and my instructor noticed my drawing skills and ability to express myself through the brush – every stroke on the canvas or paper has a story to tell.

An illustration by Minh Tran. Image: courtesy of Minh Tran

MT:While a student at AAU, you were a member of the fashion club, Beyond the Front Row. Tell us about your experiences with the club. Did it help you professionally?

MTran: While I was in school, I joined Beyond the Front Row and later became a board member, which was one of the greatest experiences I have had. I learned the industry’s rules and protocols. Our mentor (and School of Fashion instructor) Hersha Steinbock taught me so much. Being on the board exposed me to many opportunities such as joining the School of Fashion directors, other club members and the featured fashion designers at New York Fashion Week (NYFW). I worked backstage at NYFW every season since 2010. Another great opportunity was working as a dresser with other Beyond the Front Row members at the Fall 2012 Duckie Brown MBFW Show.

MT: What is your favorite memory from your time at the School of Fashion?

MTran: My favorite memory would be running around campus trying to get things ready before the fashion shows, such as assisting on fittings, and helping the models backstage. I miss having Beyond the Front Row board meetings in the Dior Café at 625 Polk Street where we would talk about our upcoming projects.

MT: What was your biggest challenge as a student?

MTran: The most challenging time was my last semester when I was preparing for my senior project review.

MT: What was the hardest lesson you’ve learned?

MTran: I am learning everyday, what I have realized now compared to then was the fact that no one thinks alike, and we have to understand people not understanding. I learned to speak my mind when I have a strong idea and stick to it. The School of Fashion taught me that.

MT: What advice would you give to students?

MTran: I learned that you only have one chance to impress your employer. Don’t mess it up, just work hard! Be you! Stay strong and focus on your goal. Be adventurous and don’t be afraid to ask for help when you need it!

MT: What are you currently obsessed with?

MTran: I am currently obsessed with the idea of being a fashion illustrator (pens, feathers, paint, and coal), and hopefully becoming a teacher one day.

MT: What would people be surprised to learn about you?

MTran: I am obsessed with Logo TV’s “RuPaul’s Drag Race” and dressed in drag on Halloween.

MT: Favorite quote?

MTran: “If you can’t love yourself, how can you love anyone else!?”

Fall 2014, BFA Web Design New Media alumnus Minh Tran. Image: courtesy of Minh Tran

By: Malcolm Thomas

Lauren Giovanna Nypaver. Photo by Rob Curry.

Born in Boulder and raised in Colorado, BFA Fashion Design student Lauren Giovanna Nypaver graduated from Loveland High School in 2006, where soon after graduating she was forced to make the difficult choice between financial stability versus art. Nypaver chose art, by any means necessary. From waiting tables, teaching skiing to teaching English in Prague, Nypaver made it happen to finance her dreams of becoming a fashion designer. In 2012, she was part of the technical team at Marmot, where she helped with fit testing, garment wear and pattern grading. In 2014 Nypaver became a design intern at San Francisco based messenger bag company, Timbuk2. The journey has been long but Nypaver is now on the heels of premiering her collection at the Graduation Collections, next month.

Lauren Giovanna Nypaver’s Graduation Collection line-up.

Declaring her collection a “love letter to the Colorado Rocky Mountains” Nypaver’s pieces incorporate re-purposed camping tents such as a hand painted silk and black mesh “Hooligan” two-person zipper gown over a hand painted silk “Bianca” jump suit. Photos of lichen (a composite organism found in the forest) taken from Nypaver’s summer hikes were her textile inspiration.

What advice would you give students who want to do collection?

Lauren Giovanna Nypaver: Only do it if you have something to prove to yourself and if you are able to believe in yourself and your designs when no one else does.

What is your greatest style regret?

LGN: Not being born in a different century.

Who are your favorite fashion icons and why?

LGN: Holden Caulfield [from J.D. Salinger’s “Catcher in the Rye” because he can spot phonies and my Great Grandma Joy because even in her nineties she would dress up for company; red lips, ciggy in hand a Yankees game on the TV. She would always offer us nuts and individually wrapped hard candies in crystal trays when my sisters and I would visit her as small children. After her death all her things were stored in a boxcar. Dresses with matching gloves, shoes and hats all in boxes with fancy labels and tissue paper, dance cards, costume jewelry, marbles … a life time of style no one stopped me from playing dress up with. [It] inspired my earliest ideas of what fashion meant to me.

By: Malcolm Thomas

A look from the Fall/Winter 2015 collection of 2003 BFA Fashion Design alumna, Michelle Helene. Image: Isabella Bejarano 2014 MFA Photography Alumna

With an eponymous New York City fashion label under her belt, Michelle Helene Grunberg is the designer behind Michelle Helene. A line of soberly chic wears at a contemporary price point. Ms. Grunberg is also a 2003 School of Fashion BFA Fashion Design alumna. Twelve years after she walked the halls of 625 Polk Street Michelle Helene Grunberg talks: inspiration, her Fall/Winter 2015 collection, shares candid advice about the travails of the fashion industry, and tells us why, “Going to AAU [Academy of Art University] really changed my life. ”

Malcolm Thomas: When did you graduate?

MH:  2003 BFA Fashion Design

MT: Why the name Michelle Helene?

MH: Just keeping it simple. It’s my first and middle name.

MT: Tell us about your collection.

MH: The collection is special to me because it is a reflection of who I am and the things that inspire me. I work to create designs that I hope will be accepted or seen as more or less timeless, while always trying to find new ways to convey a mood or tell a story. It’s easy to get caught up in just making something that’s aesthetically pleasing or that attracts attention, but it’s maybe most important to me, to focus on the communication and emotion [that goes into] every piece. My garments are handmade and on many of them, I’ve worked closely with my brother Alex on who is a weaver living in Taos, New Mexico. We spend a lot of time exploring and learning different weaving techniques; sourcing materials that are more rare or unique; and finding new ways to translate it all into each season.

A look from the Fall/Winter 2015 collection of 2003 BFA Fashion Design alumna, Michelle Helene. Image: Isabella Bejarano 2014 MFA Photography Alumna

MT: Where do you find inspiration?

MH: My designs are not rooted in one idea. They are based on evolving concepts and my inspiration comes from so many different places. I am fascinated by different cultures, subcultures and the quirks and oddities of day-to-day life that often go unnoticed, aren’t valued or are maybe even under-appreciated. I am constantly observing the world around me, and looking for subtle ways to weave the things I see into my designs.

MT: What is next for you and your line for 2015?

MH: To continue to collaborate with great people and develop new ideas. I will also be looking to show my line a little bit more, as I’ve been hyper-focused on getting things to a point where I feel good about the quality and creativity of the pieces I am developing.  I would like to spend more time sharing my designs and ideas with people, and giving them a better idea of what the line is about.

 MT: What’s the funniest thing that’s happened recently in your business? 

MH: To be honest, just starting a business all together. It’s one thing to be a designer, it’s whole other thing to run a business. I’ve been very fortunate to have the opportunity to establish a business that affords me the opportunity to do something that’s very personal to me. That said, I definitely don’t envision myself as a “business person”, but I’m applying the skills I’ve developed along the way and doing my best to embrace the roll, so I can continue doing what I love.

MT: What is your favorite memory from your time at the School of Fashion?

MH: Going to AAU really changed my life. I had some of the most inspirational teachers and I also made some life-long friends. My time here really challenged me in ways that made me push the boundaries of what I was capable of. But as far as my favorite memories, (academically speaking of course) they are of locking myself in the studio late at night and working through the early hours of the morning. It was a time to tune out the rest of the world, listen to my music, focus on the work and have fun. It always makes me smile when I think about it.

MT: What was the hardest fashion lesson you’ve learned?

MH: Dealing with some of the attitudes and personalities you encounter in the industry and learning not to take it so personally.

A look from the Fall/Winter 2015 collection of 2003 BFA Fashion Design alumna, Michelle Helene. Image: Isabella Bejarano 2014 MFA Photography Alumna

MT:  Any ‘insider information’ from the fashion industry that could you share with fashion students today?

MH:   The fashion industry is not easy, but don’t let it consume you. As a professional, create a vision, be observant and make goals for yourself along the way. As a person — stay humble, be willing, have the confidence to be who you are — and you will succeed. Always treat people fair and show respect. With some of the people out here, it isn’t always the easiest, but you will see in time that it pays off.

MT: What advice would you give to students? 

MH: Appreciate the opportunities that come your way and make the most of them. Utilize your teachers and resources at AAU as much as possible.  Most of all work hard and always have fun in what you are doing.

Visit: http://www.michelle-helene.com/

Follow Michelle on Instagram: @mh_michellehelene

By: Malcolm Thomas

Linka Rowland, photo by Rob Curry.

North of San Francisco lays the beautiful coastal town of Mendocino, California. This is where BFA Fashion Design major Linka Rowland grew up, graduating from Mendocino High School in 2000. Since then, Rowland has lent her time as a special events coordinator and venue designer for various local Mendocino events. In addition to receiving her fashion education from the Academy of Art University, in 2013 Rowland also attended private pattern-making and construction classes with Academy of Art University instructor and San Francisco based luxury designer, Julia Panciroli.

Lineup by Linka Rowland.

Currently working on her collection for the graduation fashion show next month, Linka Rowland’s wool, leather, neoprene, rabbit, Tibetan lamb and kid lamb fur garments are nothing short of lush. Her garments are embellished with “thousands” of white, pink, orange, yellow and black rabbit foot key chains. Inspired by the oversized silhouette and a new interpretation of fringe, Rowland’s girl is no wallflower.

What is the best advice you have ever received?

Linka Rowland: Trust the process.

What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion?

LR: Illustration classes with Dale Dombrowski, it’s where I remember first really connecting to my time here.

What is your greatest style regret?

LR: Not finding fashion sooner. I never grew up wanting to pursue fashion. I had no idea this is where I would end up. But I’m really happy. Fashion does something for my soul that nothing else does. I just think of all the years I spent not thinking about style and I regret the time lost.

By: Malcolm Thomas

Ye Kuang, photo by Rob Curry.

BFA Fashion Design student Ye Kuang was born and raised in Shanghai, China. Kuang was a former design intern at the storied And Re Walker design studio in New York City, where she helped the designer source fabrics and trims and assisted in pattern making and garment construction.

Photo by Bob Toy.

Using neoprene, imitation leather and lace as her medium, Kuang took inspiration from sculpture, Dutch architect Erick van Egeraat’s “Incineration Line in Roskilde” to be exact, for her collection. Looks like the short sleeve high collar neoprene top with 3D pop-in detail and laser-cut holes paired with leather shorts have a sculptural quality reminiscent of her inspiration. 

Ye Kuang’s inspiration for her graduation collection.

What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion?

Ye Kuang: Working with all my friends and classmates in our last year, and struggling together almost everyday in school until it closed.

Which talent would you most like to have?

YK: Endless inspiration.

Who are your favorite fashion icons and why?

YK: Issey Miyake. He’s very good at transforming the sculpture into garments, which is also my design style. His technology-driven clothing designs make him a master in the fashion field.

Candy Hsinyu Chu, photo by Rob Curry.

Kuang collaborated with MFA Jewelry Design student Candy Hsinyu Chu for the jewelry portion of the collection. Chu was born and raised in Taipei, Taiwan, and earned her BFA in Fashion Design from the Academy in 2014 before undertaking master’s courses in jewelry design. She’s held assistant internship positions at San Francisco based retailers Harputs and Margaret O’Leary, and was the 2014 MFA Director’s Choice as well as the MFA Student Choice award winner at the Academy of Art University Spring Show.

Inspired by “an acrylic series of Scandinavian interiors, furniture and architecture,” the color palette of Chu’s jewelry is reminiscent of “Nordic summers, rocky coastlines and pristine, untouched beaches.” Expertly crafted, each piece is strung together on vinyl tubing that’s designed to sit beautifully on the curves of the body.

What is the best advice you have ever received?

Candy Hsinyu Chu: Dutch based [jeweler], Peter Hoogeboom[once said], “Take a workshop in a completely different design field or art technique. I think the most interesting works are to be found or made in overlapping areas.” 

What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion?

CHC: Working on a collection with design partners. We learned from each other.

What is your style motto?

CHC: Elegant and simple.

By: Malcolm Thomas

Novi Utami Image: Rob Curry

Novi Utami, 2014 CFDA Liz Claiborne Design Scholarship – Excellence in Technical Design winner, was born and raised in Indonesia. In 2010 Utami moved from her home country to Mesa, Arizona to attend community college and particpate in Scottsdale Fashion Week. In 2013, Utami took part in the Where Hip Hop Meets Couture fashion show in San Francisco, where Utami is currently enrolled as a BFA Fashion Design student at Academy of Art University.

Novi Utami’s graduation collection line up. Image: courtesy of Novi Utami

Utami’s silk charmeuse, cotton twill, lace, organza, wool suiting, and neoprint collection is  inspired by Japanese origami artist Yuko Nishimura and the war in Gaza. This unlikely combination allows her to marry the “masculinity of military clothing with the precision of delicate origami,” Utami explained. “The Japanese calligraphy character for the word origami can actually be translated as ‘pray,’ therefore, the collection is not only about the mix of masculinity and femininity, but also the inner peace and conflict that happens within us. ”

Novi Utami’s moodboard. Image: courtesy of Novi Utami

What is the best advice you have ever received?

Novi Utami: Never limit yourself when you are designing or creating something. Just because it’s not something that you would be interested in does not mean you can’t make your own best version.

Ignoring the cost, what item of clothing / bag / designer would you buy right now?

NU: A Valentino Couture Gown.

 What is your greatest style regret?

NU: All of the years during high school.

By: Malcolm Thomas

Fei Lin, photo by Rob Curry.

BFA Fashion Design student Fei Lin grew up in Fu Zhou, Fu jian, China. Before coming to Academy of Art University, Lin interned as a design assistant at “He” Fashion Studio in China. During her time at the Academy, Lin has gained industry experience through her roles as a design and patteren making assistant at San Francisco based Azadeh Couture and as a sewing assistant at the Academy.

Illustrated lineup by Fei Lin.

Lin’s graduation menswear collection draws on the work of Dutch handbag designer Ilvy Jacobs, whose signature origami brown paper bags inspired Lin with their shape and modern design. Leather, cotton twill and double knit jersey encapsulate Lin’s collection, which consists of looks such as a gunmetal leather coat with grey short pants.

Fei Lin’s inspiration for her 2015 graduation collection.

What is the best advice you have ever received?

Fei Lin: If you like it, do it. If you don’t like it, do it until you like it.

What is your greatest style regret?

FL: Nothing.

Who are your favorite fashion icons and why?

FL: Anyone can be my inspiration.

By: Malcolm Thomas

Gisel Ko, photo by Rob Curry.

Fluent in Korean, Spanish and English, BFA Knitwear Design student Gisel Ko shares the unique heritage of being both South Korean and Mexican; Ko grew up in Monterrey, N.L. Mexico. In 2014, Ko was a CFDA Scholarship Competition nominee. One of her designs was also featured in a “Child of the Stars” web editorial for Chasseur Magazine.

Gisel Ko’s illustrated lineup.

While browsing an art exhibition in Korea, Ko was struck by paintings of a Korean girl in traditional dress playing sports. One painting in particular, which pictured a girl skiing, inspired Ko’s graduation collection. “I connected with sportswear and skiwear, taking a sporty and masculine look from skiwear and [adding] a feminine touch from the Korean traditional dress,” she explained. Ko’s collection features hand-knitted items such as a floral bomber jacket and a jacquard sweater.

Fabric swatches and inspiration images from Gisel Ko’s graduation collection.

What is the best advice you have ever received?

Gisel Ko: Practice is the mother of skill. Our knitwear lab technician used to tell us that all the time.

What advice would you give students who want to do collection?

GK: Definitely know and understand that you have to commit yourself completely. Also, as you move forward, be brave enough to ask for help. It’s really tough to think that you’re standing alone.

What is your greatest style regret?

GK: Not having collected enough sweaters and denim jackets from vintage shops.

Fabric swatches and inspiration images from Gisel Ko’s graduation collection.

By: Malcolm Thomas

BFA Fashion Design student, Yao Shuman. Image: Rob Curry

BFA Fashion Design student Shuman Yao was born in Shijiazhuang, Heibei, China and grew up in Beijing. She received her first Bachelor’s degree in Character Make-Up Design. Yao was also a former costume designer at China’s National Grand Theatre (National Center for the Performing Arts) and styling assistant at Harpers Bazaar China. She was the 2009 recipient of the Central Academy of Drama’s Best Make-up Award for Fashion Make-Up.

Yao’s graduation collection, constructed from rubber PVC, wool cashmere, polyester and denim, is inspired by Anachronox, a sci-fi video game about the salvation of a lowly artificial planet and its universe. “I took the shape of the spacecraft and the details of the space suit to create the silhouette shapes. The layer details and the closure are inspired by Saturn’s rings,” Yao said.

Yao’s illustrated lineup. Image: courtesy of Shuman Yao

Yao’s May 2015 Collection moodboard. Image: courtesy of Shuman Yao.

What is your style motto?

Shuman Yao: Let fabric sculpt the shape.

Who are your favorite fashion icons and why?

S: David Bowie, he has a keen fashion [sense] and I love his style mash-up.

What is your dream job?

S: To design garments for the woman who wants to wear a story.

By: Malcolm Thomas

Emma Xueling Cui, photo by Rob Curry

BFA Fashion Design student Emma Xueling Cui grew up in Shenyang and Dalian, China. Cui has lent her fashion design skills to the Korean Art Festival, worked as a uniform designer for Mashine China, and served as a textile designer for San Francisco street wear brand Dashing Knight.

Emma Xueling Cui’s illustrated lineup.

Cui’s collection is an ode to the late British sculptor Lynn Chadwick. “My collection is a clash of interesting organic shapes with a modernistic feel. I wanted to [interpret] Lynn Chadwick’s idea of showing movement and fluidity through the use of rib knits and curvy cuts. He used bronze and other heavy materials; in contrast I wanted the collection to move freely,” Cui said.

Emma’s Xueling Cui’s moodboard.

Emma’s Xueling Cui’s moodboard.

What is the best advice you have ever received?

Emma Xueling Cui: You must do what scares you, because it will pull out the best [in] you.

What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion?

EXC: The most memorable year was the collection year, because I got to know my friends better. We stayed up all day and night at the studio and had fun working hard.

Which talent would you most like to have?

EXC: I wish I could play the cello like Yo-Yo Ma.

By: Malcolm Thomas

Cherng-Hann Lee, photo by Rob Curry.

BFA Fashion Design student Cherng-Hann Lee was born in Taipei, Taiwan. Lee was the 2012 winner of a $5,000 CFDA/ Vogue Fashion Fund scholarship.

Lee’s 2015 graduation collection is inspired by Medieval suit of arms, and is made of fabrics ranging from lace to wool, embossed corduroy to cotton to create looks that give his garments both “an elegant and masculine feeling.”

Lee isn’t afraid to push the sartorial buttons of masculinity either, designing pieces like a blue velvet top paired with a lace-patterned gray wool pant and managing to make it look as laissez faire and modernly machismo as a leather biker jacket.

Photo by Bob Toy.

Ignoring the cost, what item of clothing / bag / designer piece would you buy right now?

Cherng-Hann Lee: I want to buy a Dior shirt, and an Orphan Bird coat I think, but I want to make garments for myself.

What is your greatest style regret?

CHL: Big and loose hip-hop wear.

What is your style motto?

CHL: Don’t just wear clothes, wear your attitude.

By: Malcolm Thomas

Karina Garcia. Image: Rob Curry

A double major in BFA Fashion Design and BFA Fine Arts, Karina Garcia is preparing for her graduation collection in collaboration with BFA Textile designer, Mariana Pazos. While simultaneously developing a business foundation for her jewelry line, Garcia claims the endeavor has opened her eyes to the grueling amount of work involved, however she is happy to do it. After all, hard work is no stranger to the Mexican born Garcia who previously completed a two- year fashion design program in her native country. In 2009 her textile prints were selected for the 2009 Academy of Art University Spring Show. In 2014 Garcia was chosen to participate in the Joes Blackbook Design Competition, a scholarship program awarded to the best in American student design. In addition, Garcia has also done styling for Ford Models with Photography alumna Isabella Bejarano and designed garments for clients.

Karina Garcia and Mariana Pazo’s graduation collection line up. Image: courtesy of Karina Garcia and Mariana Pazos

Inspired by Georgia O’Keefe, Pearl Harbor and World War II uniforms Garcia and Pazos’ collection consists of printed cotton fabrics, midnight navy light wool and silk charmeuse. Half-printed cotton and navy blue light weight wool long sleeveless tops with exaggerated pockets matched with low waisted semi-fitted pants are, “one of the things that make this collection…unique,” said Garcia. “The color combination [of] all the prints have an Hawaiian feeling and they are placed in order to project two faces in the garments. All front faces of the garments are printed with a hint of navy [in the front and on the back]… the hint of color makes this collection half dark and half printed.”

Moodboard for Karina Garcia and Mariana Pazo’s graduation collection. Image: courtesy of Karina Garcia

What is your style motto?

Karina Garcia: Blue jeans and a leather jacket

What talent would you most like to have?

K: To sing

Who are your favorite fashion icons and why?

K: [Cristóbal] Balenciaga was one of the most inspiring designers of all times. [The house’s] collections are always clean and elegant.

Mariana Pazos. Image: Rob Curry

BFA Textile Design student Mariana Pazos was born in Chihuahua, Mexico and graduated from ITESM (Monterrey Institute of Technology and Higher Education) high school in 2008. An Urban Knight, Pazos has won numerous awards for her athletic endeavors at the Academy of Art Univesrity, including the Division 2 Athletics Directors Association Academic Achievement Award for the 2012-2013 and 2013-2014 academic years. Pazos also made the Pac West All-Academic Team for both the 2012-2013 and 2013-2014 academic years. She been a member of the Academy of Art University’s Women’s Golf team as well as a Student Athletic Advisor Committee Women’s Golf Representative. For the 2013-2014 academic year Pazos also made the President’s list for having a GPA higher than 3.9.

A page from Mariana Pazos’ graduation collection sketchbook. Image: courtesy of Mariana Pazos

Pazo’s textile designs for Garcia’s Georgia O’Keeffe, Pearl Harbor and World War II inspiration consists of three prints in 12 colorways that transition from bright to dark. Pazos looked to the tropics and bright colors of Hawaii and the darkness of World War II for design inspiration.

 What is your greatest style regret?

Mariana Pazos: Thinking I could pull off orange curly hair

 Which items in your closet do you most use?

M: My Nike running shoes

Who are your favorite fashion icons and why?

M: Everyday people I pass on the street.

By: Malcolm Thomas

Livia Bianda. Image: Rob Curry

BFA Fashion Design student Livia Bianda was born and raised in Jakarta, Indonesia. While in high school Bianda was named South East Youth Softball Tournament Champion in 2008 and 2009. Upon moving to California, Bianda attended community college in Cupertino before enrolling at the Academy to pursue her love of fashion. Since then, she has immersed herself in the design world, serving as the menswear intern at Alexander Wang in New York during the summer of 2014, assisting 2014 Academy of Art Univerity seniors with their graduation collections, and contributing to the design development process and assisting in styling menswear looks as a part of the design team for the Indonesia Day festival in San Francisco. In March 2014, Bianda’s work was chosen by the Academy to participate in the first round of the Joe’s Blackbook Design Competition in New York.

Livia Bianda’s graduation collection line-up. Image: courtesy of Livia Bianda

Bianda’s lycra, mesh, pinstripe wool and pinstripe cotton graduation collection was inspired by the uniforms and exaggerated silhouettes seen on football players. What’s even cooler than Bianda’s mesh pullover t-shirts and two-layered pants are the built in backpacks and fanny packs that adorn of her garments. However, innovation comes at a cost; Bianda warns to be prepared to, “fully commit to work on your collection, and to willingly spend most of your senior year in the lab.”

A page from Bianda’s graduation collection sketchbook. Image: courtesy of Livia Bianda

What is the best advice you have ever received?

Livia Bianda: Take it one step at a time.

 What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion?

LB: Having lunch and dinner with my fellow creative and talented classmates after going through non-stop drafting, cutting, and sewing all day.

Who are your favorite fashion icons and why?

LB: Raf Simons for his radical menswear fashion, and his own way of interpreting traditional menswear structures.

A page from Bianda’s graduation collection sketchbook. Image: courtesy of Livia Bianda

By: Malcolm Thomas

Image: Anthony Rogers.

On Thursday, April 30, the Academy’s retail store, SHOP657, reopens at its 657 Sutter Street location to showcase the exceptional work from talented School of Fashion students and alumni. SHOP657, a permanent, not-for-profit retail space created and curated by Academy of Art University School of Fashion Merchandising students, sells one-of-a-kind clothing, shoes, accessories and decorative lifestyle items designed by School of Fashion students and alumni.

“SHOP657 builds on the momentum that the Academy of Art University School of Fashion experienced with our successful pop-up store, which made its debut at our spring show last year,” said Keanan Duffty, Senior Director of Fashion Merchandising. “SHOP657 is continually evolving and new alumni lines are being added to the roster of student and alumni collections that are carried at the shop. Creating and operating a dedicated fashion retail space is a unique opportunity to launch our graduates to be future stars in the fashion firmament.”

I sat down with a few of the designers whose collections are carried at SHOP657 to chat with them about their lines, their time in the School of Fashion, and their plans for the future.

 VOIDTHEBRAND

VOIDTHEBRAND by Zhao Wu, BFA Fashion Merchandising. Stylist: Lanye Rouch and Bibiana Pina. Image: Anthony Rogers.

As one of the original lines sold at the retail store, VOIDTHEBRAND is no stranger to SHOP657. For the reopening, VOIDTHEBRAND has collaborated with a local graphic designer on uniquely hand-dyed limited edition pieces which will be available at SHOP657.

With a strong belief in honest products, the brand presents basic but distinctive designs that are both high quality and affordable. “As an alumni, it is my honor to participate in such an event [SHOP657]) and be able to encourage others to pursue their dreams,” said brand founder Zhao Wu.

Wu and his friends started the VOIDTHEBRAND while they were still students at Academy of Art University, because they “felt the urge to create a lineup of clothing that represented our perspectives in fashion.” After graduating with a BFA in Fashion Merchandising, Wu and business partners continued to develop the brand into “a complete collection with more product variations and collaborations.”

Wu explained, “My philosophy is simple. I wanted to create a line of well designed products with great quality at the lowest prices available.” To transfer their fashion philosophy into tangible products, VOIDTHEBRAND sources their materials from a fabric mill in southern California and rest of the manufacturing process is done locally in San Francisco.

When asked what’s next for VOIDTHEBRAND, Wu sited successful mega brand Nike as a source of inspiration, “I admire the way Nike conducts research and integrates the results into their products—to me it is beyond any other apparel brand that exists. I would love to do that with technology; tech-apparel is something I would like to further explore.”

 Snacku

Snacku by Yoshimi Fukazawa, MFA Fashion Design. Styling: Sophie Charles, Erin Ryan and Stacey Bledsoe. Image: Jeffry Raposas.

 New to SHOP657, Snacku is the brainchild of MFA Fashion Design alumna Yoshimi Fukazawa. Describing the name of her company, Fukazawa says, “I want my customers to find the kind of pleasure in my designs that snacks can bring to people.”

After graduating from the School of Fashion, Fukazawa worked for local designers and brands where she faced two obstacles: the fast fashion trend and working as a design assistant as opposed to being the head designer. Fukazawa soon figured out that “what customers really appreciate are well made, functional, basic styles from quality materials such as leather.” Such analysis made more sense to her than the fast fashion trend, and it eventually encouraged her to create a brand that truly represented her design philosophy.

As a fashion designer and a cartoonist, Fukazawa creates classic and versatile outerwear for Snacku that have “fun and surprising functional details.” Her vintage leather bomber, for example, has rolled rib cuffs with a hole on each side so they can be worn as mitts when they are stretched. Fukazawa’s commitment to well made fashion can be seen in all aspects of her collection, from the process of sourcing the raw materials— the leather hides come from Italy and the rest of the raw materials are sourced domestically from mills that hand-dye the leather to order— to the construction of the garments by hand in the Snacku “Squirrel Factory” studio.

“Fashion is a business, not conceptual art, so I am learning a lot of the practical side to making collections and it is very hard. I think it’s great for fashion merchandising students to learn how to run an actual store and be able to learn some of these things while they are still in school!”

Fukazawa is presenting Snacku’s Fall 2015 capsule collection, “Hobo,” at SHOP657. “Hobo” is her first collection to include wool-only jackets and coats, and uses domestically sourced wool from a small production mill. Of her inspiration, Fukazawa says, “My muse is my sister, who wants her clothes to fit into an office situation but also work for a Sunday brunch or shopping trip. So every time I design a new jacket, I have to step back and make sure it’s not too avant-garde but that it still has something special, like a zip out lining filled with my cartoon characters.”

In 10 years Fukazawa hopes to have Snacku sold at Barney’s New York, but in the meantime you can find her capsule collection at SHOP657 in San Francisco!

 Diana Garcia

 New to SHOP657 is the stunning jewelry from MFA Jewelry and Metal Arts student Diana Garcia. Garcia is not simply a designer, but is also a narrator; when looking at necklaces like the double-headed horse pendant or ‘paper planes’ statement necklace, you cannot help but ask “what is the story behind this jewelry and who makes them?”

Garcia launched her brand in 2013 while she was a student at Academy of Art University. “The journey is like a roller coaster. Sometimes it is super fun, but it can also be really scary,” Garcia said. “Being at the Academy of Art University has been a huge influence and it’s been a dream come true to be with all the people that I admire. I really want to follow in their footsteps.”

Garcia said of her design process, “When I design, I envision that my customers want to look different, be avant-garde, and they are looking for a jewelry that they can take with them on a journey…[with it, they can] always be ready for anything.” Garcia works primarily with brass and silver, because she loves that “they can be permissive and let you mold and sculpt just the way you want.”

At SHOP657 you can find Garcia’s handmade sterling sliver jewelry pieces that she hopes will “make you fall in love.” “When they told me that SHOP657 was looking for emerging designers I didn’t think twice. I knew that I wanted to be there, showing my work alongside so many other talented designers. For me, as a student, it is an honor to have my work included in the shop.”

Through her participation in SHOP657 she hopes her brand will be recognized in the city. San Francisco is just the first of many cities she hopes to conquer over the next decade. She is also curating a new collaboration with SHOP657. Although she cannot give much detail about the project at this point, it will involve the launch of a new collection so stay tuned!

Gazel by Pinar Badur, MFA Fashion Merchandising. Styling: Boa Chu, Michelle Hsu, Chaw Chaw San and Kamila Marquez. Image: Jeffry Raposas.

Zhao Wu, Yoshimi Fukazawa and Diana Garcia are just a few of the talented students and alumni whose collections can be found at SHOP657. In addition, San Francycle, Mute, Apartment 415, Gazel, Rinat Brodach, 625 Lab, Dale Beevers, Deanna Wardley and VIPE are great alumni brands that can be found in the shop. Stop by 657 Sutter Street to see the amazing collections in person!

Images shot by Jeffry Raposas and Anthony Rogers, styled in the three sections of FSH 391 Fashion Product Styling class taught by Teresa Merenda. All shots conceptualized and styled by students.

By: Go-Un Yi

Lucky Jiang Image: Rob Curry

Lucky Jiang, BFA Fashion Design, was born in Dandong, Liaoning Province, China. After completing high school in China, Jiang moved to San Francisco to pursue Fashion Design at Academy of Art University. She has since worked as a Fashion and Technical Design Intern for 440 Brannan Studio in San Francisco and Patrik Ervell in New York. Her impressive list of awards include Council of Fashion Designers of America Menswear Award, Clara Hancox Award for Menswear Design, Joe’s Blackbook Menswear Design Finalist and Teen Vogue/Design Council of Fashion Designers of America Menswear Award.

Lucky Jiang Graduation Collection Lineup. Image:courtesy of Lucky Jiang.

Jiang’s graduate menswear collection was inspired by the oversized shape and curvature of an astronaut’s spacesuit. She used a curve-cutting technique on navy, baby blue and pink herringbone wools, which were pieced together using strips of leather. The contrast of the binding material against the soft wool fabric simulates the piping found inside spacesuits, which protect against temperature extremities.

Lucky Jiang, Graduation Collection Mood Board Image:courtesy of Lucky Jiang.

What is the best advice you have ever received?

Lucky Jiang: Don’t be afraid to fail. Keep trying and never give up, you will find the right way in the end!

What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion?

LJ: Doing the fashion show last year with my menswear designer friends. We encouraged each other, helped each other and shared both our happiness and tears.

What is your style motto?

LJ: Never blindly follow trends, follow your style.

By: Faye Harris, MFA Fashion Journalism