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MBFW Spring 2015 Designer Spotlight: Wei Bai

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Illustration Lineup for her Spring 2015 Collection.
Wei Bei, Photo By Bob Toy

Wei Bei, Photo By Bob Toy

Wei Bai, M.F.A. Fashion Design, grew up in Chongqing, China. Having completed a B.F.A. in Fine Arts and Graphic and Web Design, Wei worked as a graphic designer before undertaking her graduate degree in Fashion Design. Her Spring 2015 collection is a mix of causal sportswear and neo-Edwardian Teddy Boy style that became popular in the 1950’s in England. Garments are constructed in one piece, although many give the illusion that they are separates.

Wei Bai’s inspiration board for her Spring 2015 Collection.

Wei Bai’s inspiration board for her Spring 2015 Collection.

Illustration Lineup for her Spring 2015 Collection.

Illustration Lineup for her Spring 2015 Collection.

What is the best advice you have ever received?

Make your time and money valuable.

What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion?

The time I spent with my friends, the instructors and of course the moment that I picked up some design skills.

What advice would you give students who want to do a collection?

Work hard.

Ignoring the cost, what item of clothing / bag / designer would you buy right now?

Alexander Mcqueen embellished gown and an Ann Demeulemeester feather pendant necklace.

Which items in your closet do you most use?

T-shirt, black pants & jeans, Sneakers & boots.

What is your style motto?

Wear what you want to wear and have fun!

Which talent would you most like to have?

The ability to speak multiple languages.

 

Written By: Dorren Du 


MBFW Spring 2015 Designer Spotlight: Szu Chi Huang

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Illustration Lineup for her Spring 2015 Collection.
Szu Chi Huang, By Bob Toy

Szu Chi Huang, By Bob Toy

Szu Chi Huang, M.F.A. Fashion Design, hails from Taiwan where, before attending Academy of Art University, she completed a B.A. in Costume Design. Her background in costumes led Szu to be inspired by traditional Japanese samurai armor. Szu’s collection translates her inspiration into modern fashion by using conventional construction techniques— origami pleating instead of 3D printing. This helps her achieve the three-dimensional feeling of armor that is compiled from many small pieces. Szu used leather and mesh woven to mimic the texture of samurai garments. The simple black and white color palette of her collection is a nod to traditional Japanese ink paintings and calligraphy.

Szu Chi Huang was inspired by the Japanese samurai armor.

Szu Chi Huang was inspired by the Japanese samurai armor.

Illustration Lineup for her Spring 2015 Collection.

Illustration Lineup for her Spring 2015 Collection.

What is the best advice you have ever received?

“If you do not like the thing you created, then why should other people like it.”

What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion?

Every final presentation at the end of the semester.

What advice would you give students who want to do a collection?

Listen to people’s suggestions and implement those suggestions in your life.

Ignoring the cost, what item of clothing / bag / designer would you buy right now?

COMME des GARCONS Bow Shirt.

What is your greatest style regret?

I had orange baggy pants that I used to wear in high school. It made me look like a firefighter when I look back at the class yearbook.

Which items in your closet do you most use?

White shirts (I have more than ten white shirts in my closet).

Who are your favorite fashion icons and why?

Susi Bubble, I like her style (mixing classic and avant-garde items is so modern). I also like how she introduces many new designers in her blog.

 

Written By: Doreen Du 

Are All Size 8s Created Equal? Academy Instructors Shed Light on Jean Sizing

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jean pic

jean picApparel sizing has been a hot topic as of late, and with Fall right around the corner we’re already planning which pair of crisp new jeans will take us through the season. But as many of us know, finding the right pair of jeans can be a monumental task. Trying to find the right size can be like trying to find a needle in a haystack.

HershaWhy is sizing inconsistent across different jean brands? ABC’s Good Morning America delved into the issue, and Academy of Art University School of Fashion instructors Hersha Steinbock and Terhi Ketola-Stutch chimed in! Watch the segment on Good Morning America here!

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From French Architecture to Fashion Week: The Story Behind Madison Detro’s Designs

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Photo by Jennifer Blot
Photo by Bob Toy

Photo by Bob Toy

Spend a few minutes with MFA Fashion Design student Madison Detro and you’ll walk away with an inkling that she’s at the beginning of a design journey that could go in many directions. In the midst of a fast-approaching deadline to complete her runway collection for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York, Detro appeared focused and methodical, almost subdued. Yet it’s very clear that at 26, she’s already an overachiever whose creativity spills into multiple formats. There’s Detro the solo designer, an avid researcher who likes to experiment with shape and form.  Inspired by the creations of Swiss-French architect Le Corbusier, as well as her formative undergraduate studies (she received a B.A. in Architecture from Cal Poly in 2008), her designs translate into garments that are unfussy, streamlined, and monochromatic – often free of zippers, snaps or fasteners. Then there’s Detro the collaborator, who thrives in partnerships. With her younger sister Malone, 24, she founded Moseley, a clothing and accessories line named after their great-grandmother, a fashion-forward San Franciscan who lived to be 99. And with her boyfriend, Conor Sweitzer, she collaborates on custom furniture and retail store fixtures in the work studio they share on Treasure Island. The thing at the bottom of her creative priority list, modelling, is sometimes hard to shake. At 5’10 and a size 2, she’s often a muse for photographer friends, and her sister Malone’s first choice when tailoring new designs. Detro’s New York-bound collection, featuring six looks, was inspired by what she called the “intriguingly simple complexities” of Le Corbusier’s Notre Dame du Haut in Ronchamp, France.

Photo by Jennifer Blot

Photo by Jennifer Blot

“I did a lot of sketches, then began to make some of them in 3D samples,” she said. “It was a lot of back and forth between 2D and 3D, since I was designing as I was going. I had no idea what my collection was going to look like as a whole until I had about four looks done.  But I just let the process guide me, and it felt super natural and instinctual.” Coveting the highest quality materials (it’s unlikely there will ever be a “Madison Detro for Target” line), she secured $5,000 through a Kickstarter campaign to purchase the leather for the collection. All of the pieces – from cape to jumpsuit to pull-over dress—are rendered in deep burgundy lambskin and calfskin and fit with her vision of a minimal aesthetic with some dramatic details. Detro’s fascination with architecture seems to frame everything she does. “I would say architecture gave me a real understanding of composition, including spatial relationships, proportions, and scale,” she said. Fashion School Director Simon Ungless agrees. “Madison stands out as a designer due to her training as an architect,” he said. “Her fashion design aesthetic is informed by a non-decorative approach to form and function in relationship to proportion and silhouette.”

Illustrated lineup of Detro's Spring 2015 collection.

Illustrated lineup of Detro’s Spring 2015 collection.

It would appear creativity is in her DNA. Her father is a cabinetmaker and her mother was constantly dreaming up craft projects for Detro and her five siblings when they were young.  Today, one is a painter, another designs skateboards, and one works in special effects at Industrial Light & Magic – and there’s Madison and Malone, who are so close, they joke that they’re twins.

Growing up in Los Altos, Detro was “terrified” of cities. But she now seems to thrive on the buzz after studying in Paris (both Architecture and Fashion Design) and securing an internship in New York last year with designer Yigal Azrouel. She has also assisted at Alexandria von Bromssen Designs in San Francisco. Von Bromssen, another success story from the Academy’s MFA Fashion Design program, is best known for her work on Project Runway.

In 2012, Detro began doing work at Acrimony, a small retail clothing store not far from her Hayes Valley home. She initially approached the store’s owner, Jenny Chung, hoping for a part-time sales position. Instead, Chung hired her to do some merchandising make-overs. Detro, with her boyfriend’s help, designed a system of jewelry displays and unique, streamlined racks and shelves.

“Madison was able to create an innovative fixture solution that was both unique and functional,” Chung said. “Her vision is sharp, focused and encompassing of more than just the small space she was working with.”

Ironically, Chung has yet to see Detro’s clothing designs. But she’d be willing to buy from the up-and-coming designer in the future.

“If it fit, I would definitely consider it. I love her work,” Chung said.

Photo by Jennifer Blot

Photo by Jennifer Blot

Betraying her own minimalist sensibility, Detro seems to have one funky fashion quirk: collecting over-the-top vintage coats and leather jackets. One side of her closet is filled with eclectic finds – ranging from an oversize mink to a blousy number with bat sleeves. Her favorite, a lucky flea market find, is a brown snakeskin jacket embellished with an African textile pattern.

It’s been ages since Detro has had time to browse for vintage treasures – and it’s hard to know if her schedule will ever lighten up. She’s no longer working 13-hour days preparing for Fashion Week, but her list of plans keeps expanding.  Her first goal is to launch her own line, and down the road, develop a menswear line. A shoe collection isn’t out of the question, either.  On top of it all, she and Sweitzer plan to open a restaurant together someday, collaborating on food and interior design.

So, to be safe, she refers to herself as simply a “designer.”  A word that can’t begin to sum up what she does.

 

Written by Jennifer Blot

Alumni Update: Rinat Brodach Presents First Collection at Fashion Week

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Screen Shot 2014-09-23 at 2.04.13 PM

Rinat Brodach, 2010 BFA Fashion Design alumna, has been very busy since she was awarded with a year long internship in Paris after her senior year. Since then she attended The Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, has been published in Emerging Fashion Designers 2 (by Sally Congdon-Martin), and started her own brand in New York City. She took time out of her busy schedule to talk about her debut fashion show at Nolcha Fashion Week. She spoke with FSD about her feelings and inspirations surrounding the collection.

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FSD: Is this your first collection?
Rinat Brodach: Yes this is my debut collection.

FSD: What fabrics do you primarily use?
RB: I used a few different kinds of Jerseys with some amazing textures on them (many thought I used leather), Cotton Satin, and Cupero.

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 FSD: What there a general theme or inspiration that you used?

RB: Yes. The collection is called “How to expose the Heart”.  It was inspired by the dilemma of exposing and protecting the heart. I wear my heart on my sleeve and so the inspiration was taken from everyday life where the heart is exposed, passionate, happy, sad, scared and vulnerable. Using boning to enhance the heart areas as a metaphor for the rib cage which creates a natural shield for the heart. The draping around the areas of the heart show us different situations and feelings from exposing the heart to protecting the heart. Sometimes art doesn’t make sense, ’cause it comes from the heart.

 FSD: Do you have a signature look that will be used in collections to come or do you plan on totally reinventing yourself?

RB: I think draping is a big part of me and my work. This is something to look out for in the future; my twist on draping with classic garments.

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 FSD: How do you feel a couple of weeks after your show?

RB: I feel great and bizarre at the same time. The joy of working so hard for months, and then seeing something being brought to life. I think its a similar feeling to giving birth. I feel like I gave birth.

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FSD: Where can the public purchase your collection?
RB: At the moment The public can make orders directly from me, and soon it will be available elsewhere.
FSD: What advice would you give to aspiring fashion designers?
RB: The advice I would give to aspiring designers is to never give up and always go with your gut feeling. No matter what or who tells you something, always listen to yourself first.
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PRESS RELEASE: Rinat Brodach debuts at Nolcha Fashion Week Spring-Summer 2015
NEW YORK, NEW YORK (September 16, 2014) On Monday, September 8th, 2014, New York-based designer, Rinat Brodach, debuted her first runway collection as an independent designer during Nolcha Fashion Week for the Spring-Summer 2015 showcase. Designer, Rinat Brodach, is an Israeli-born, New York-based designer holding a BFA in Fashion Design from the Academy of Art University and has been a student at The Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne. The Rinat Brodach brand is purposed to enhance a woman’s figure with designs that capture a gentle interplay between androgyny and sensuality.
The Rinat Brodach SS15 Collection, “How to Expose the Heart,” echoed the signature, high-fashion construction and drape as a mode of expression inspiring women to lead from the heart and to bring out the inner sensuality, with the feeling of confidence and security. In complement, Brodach collaborated with jewelry designer, Orly Ruaimi, to deconstruct Rinat’s concept of “How to Expose the Heart” (SS/2015) to its literal foundation, the arteries and veins of the human body. Copper pipes, with their stunning visual presence and metaphorical connection to the body’s blood flow, became the building blocks for the collection. Additional sterling silver finger shields were incorporated by jewelry designer, Schentell Dominique Nunn. Music for “How to Expose the Heart” was composed by Ann Streichman of WEAREMUNCH.
“I express who I am and how I feel through my clothes. We are all individuals and I tell my personal story in each garment, which makes it unique from anything else. I use draping to tell a story,” says Rinat Brodach.
The runway showcase attracted a host of celebrities, press & media, and industry renowned personalities including:  Kat Graham (Vampire Diaries), Bella Thorne (actress), Johnny Wujek (celebrity stylist), Nastia Liukin (Olympic Champion), Russel Westbrook (NBA), Constantine Maroulis (American Idol), (actress), Kristen Ruhlin (actress), Skeery Jones (Z100), Shaun Ross (model & actor), Soledad O’Brien (news anchor), Madeline Brewer (Orange is the New Black),  Jessica Pimentel (Orange is The New Black), Mila J (singer/rapper), Mayer Hawthorne (recording artist) and Kristen Taekman (Real Housewives of New York); to name a few. Orange is The New Black actress, Jessica Pimental, made a special red carpet appearance wearing an evening dress by Rinat Brodach.Screen Shot 2014-09-24 at 10.10.27 AM

Industry Spotlight: Photographer Mark Elzey Goes Backstage at MBFW SS15

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Photo by Mark Elzey

At fashion shows, there is a barrier between what the designer presents to the audience and the madness that goes into that final presentation. That barrier could be a number of things, it could be a wall, a curtain, maybe even a screen. Whatever the blockade is, its purpose is to keep onlookers from seeing what’s going on behind it. However, behind the scenes is often where the most interesting and beautiful moments of a show happen. Backstage is where last minute changes to designs are made, where models transform from everyday people into high fashion works of art, and behind the scenes is where designers careers are made. What comes down the runway for the audience to see is a result of the actions that have taken place in the back of the house, a result of all of the madness that occurs before those few perfect minutes where it all flows together. Mark Elzey, a fashion photographer, has broken down that barrier to give us a look into what only a few are able to see backstage at the Academy of Art University Spring 2015 Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week show.

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Photo of Mark Elzey taken by Omi Tanaka

Mark Elzey, a photographer, was trusted with the exciting challenge of taking pictures backstage at a number of shows at New York Fashion Week, including The Academy of Art University’s show. The results were truly beautiful. Even though Elzey’s pictures speak for themselves, he was gracious enough to give an interview, allowing us to see more than what is represented just though his lens.

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Photo by Mark Elzey

Tess Collins: How did you get your start in photography?

Mark Elzey: I got into photography at first by curiosity.  I’ve been an artist since I was 5 years old. Before photography, I was a graphic designer.  One of my friends had a camera at their party, it was a Canon Rebel DSLR. I had never seen such great pictures come from a camera, I wanted to try it and see what happened.  Once I picked up the camera, it was like everything started to make sense. I believe it was simply destiny. I first started out by taking pictures of everything. Some days I would stay out for a full 36 hours and turn off my phone. It was just me and the camera. After doing this non-stop for a couple years I started to become one with my environment. I was throwing all that I knew down the drain and starting fresh. Feeling the wind, hearing the birds, etc. Doing that really allows me to see exactly what I’m doing, almost like putting myself in the perspective of a Martian. It’s like being on the Earth for the first time seeing and how beautiful it is.

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Photo by Mark Elzey

TC: Your role during Fashion Week was to take portraits and candids backstage, which do you prefer; candids or staged photography?

ME: I really like both, but if I had to choose between one or the other, I’d say candids. I believe if it’s staged, everyone already has a sense of what they are going to see and get. Candids, you capture them in the moment of something. You don’t know what to expect when this happens. The results vary from photographer to photographer, how much they get the models to open up or even share their energy with them. I love the unexpected and I love change, so I definitely would have to go with candids.

TC: How are you able to capture an emotion through your photographs? How do you get the shot at just the right moment?

ME: I believe emotion is the essence of being human. I love rawness, true emotion, and naturalness. I really don’t like when models are posing. It takes away from everything that I embrace in human qualities. I try to get them to focus on their surroundings and spending time with themselves.This allows me to observe them in a different manner. I believe you have to be completely open to your models or subjects to really see and understand something more than what is being given or shown. Sometimes you just have a conversation with someone, and depending how open you are with them, they will show you the true side of who they are, and show what others haven’t seen within them. We live in a negative world, but everyone loves positive energy and those who are willing to open up. I used to be shy, but I knew if I wanted to be great, I had to overcome my fears and focus on what mattered most, my dream. I don’t believe its hard to achieve, I just believe to capture real emotion you have to ‘want’ to understand who or what you are shooting.

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Photo by Mark Elzey

TC: Any tips on how to get the shot at just the right moment?

ME: Always being on alert, and not to look at the photo you’ve just taken. One of my greatest mentors, Jeff Turner, helped me overcome that. I used to always want to look at the back of my camera after a great shot to see it. But then he showed me all the things I missed while I was looking at the pictures I’ve already taken. So I’ve learned to wait until I’m completely done shooting to go over all of my images from the shoot. Human emotion happens at the speed of light, you never know when its going to happen.

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Photo by Mark Elzey

TC: Can you describe the vibe backstage right before the Academy of Art University’s show? Would you have known it was a student showcase based on the backstage vibe?

ME: I think the vibe was awesome. I was a little surprised that the models were so open with each other, it made working with them a bit easier than at the other shows. The Academy of Art University designers in particular were very nice, open, and receptive. They may be students, but they presented themselves in a very professional manner. A lot of backstage stuff is very similar to other shows, all shows can be a rushed at times but I believe the Academy of Art University fashion show did really well as far as preparation backstage.

TC: What were your overall impressions of the Academy of Art University’s show?

ME: I absolutely loved the show. The designers all had inspiring collections. It was exciting to see, especially to shoot. There was a lot of ‘WOW’ factor. The energy was amazing- I felt I could shoot there 10 hours, no problem. It was almost as if the energy in New York city came backstage with us. It was incredible.

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Photo by Mark Elzey

To see more of Photographer Mark Elzey’s work, visit his website.

Written by Tess Collins

My summer internship: Li & Fung

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Khawane's workspace at Li & Fung

Academy of Art University Fashion Textile student Joseph Khawane spent his summer in New York City doing an internship with the Li & Fung. In his own words, Khawane shared everything from a typical workday to what he found to be the most rewarding aspect of his experience.  – Academy Art University News Staff

Joseph Khawane, MFA Textile Design

Joseph Khawane, MFA Textile Design. Photo by Bob Toy.

About Li & Fung

“Li & Fung are a global, multinational and diverse supply chain management company. They have multiple brands that fall under their umbrella. The division that I interned for was Oxford Collections, which is a private label manufacturer. Oxford Collections do a lot of design work for Target, who are one of their largest vendors. I was part of their CAD/Print Design team. In my department we would do in house print development for Target’s Xhilaration, Merona, and Ambar, just to name a few.”

Khawane's workspace at Li & Fung

Khawane’s workspace at Li & Fung. Courtesy of Joseph Khawane.

A typical workday

“A typical workday involved checking emails from the overseas CAD team, since Oxford Collections operate around the clock and around the globe.  After that, we would look at all the various mood/inspiration boards for each collection. Then we would continue with development by creating and reworking motifs to create new layouts for print concepts. While there, I was able to do some watercolor painting as well as hand drawing. This was exciting for me since these are two ways in which I work to create my own print designs.”

Khawane uses a drawing pad to translate his ideas into a digital format.

Khawane uses a drawing pad to translate his ideas into a digital format. Courtesy of Joseph Khawane.  

Biggest challenge: Understanding the workflow of the team

“The biggest challenge that I faced was understanding the workflow of the team. My very first day I was given [a] task and was designing right alongside the CAD team, as if I had been there for a while! It took a moment to get used to cataloging each and every single print, even if it doesn’t make it into production. When I started the internship, we were at 3,300 and when the internship was over, we had almost hit 3,700 prints. So needless to say we were moving at a fast pace.

One of Khawane's textile designs.

One of Khawane’s textile designs. Courtesy of Joseph Khawane.

Most rewarding aspect: “They trusted me when it came to design.”

The most rewarding part of my internship was feeling completely strong in my Photoshop/Illustrator skills. Another proud moment was [when] some of my print designs were chosen for final consideration, which was super exciting. Next time, I would maybe try not to overthink everything and just trust my design instinct since the team showed that they trusted me when it came to design.

Another of Khawane's textile designs.

Another of Khawane’s textile designs. Courtesy of Joseph Khawane.

By Joseph Khawane, MFA Textile Design

BCBG Super Intern: Oom Terdpravat, MFA Fashion Design

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Screen Shot 2014-10-08 at 9.21.53 AM

Oom Terdpravat

Oom Terdpravat, who will graduate this Fall with an MFA in Fashion Design, was recently nominated for the title of Super Intern at BCBG. She received the nod for her outstanding work at BCBG, where she is working in the textile design/color/trim department. Oom earned the respect of her colleagues by having a positive attitude and always taking initiative. Her nominator and supervisor, Yeng Thao, describes her as a person who is always willing to help and goes above and beyond to help other team members. Her proactive approach to projects and her ability to communicate about her progress has made her a valuable asset to the BCBG team and a worthy recipient of the title of “Super Intern”.

Oom answers a few questions about what it is like interning at BCBG, her future, how her internship has impacted her and what she loves most about it.

What projects/tasks are you currently working on?

It really depends, one day it can be Mainline, the next Herve Leger or Runway. I help the team oversee deliveries and organize the textile library. It is a balance between organizing work and creative work. I really like it.

What do you love most about your internship?

The creative work, right now I am helping my supervisor with the sequined embroidery for the runway show. It changes every week and I help with all the developments.

What do you hope to gain from this internship?

I hope to grow personally and in my future career. Also, the experience is something that I cannot get in school, it’s real industry experience.

What’s the best piece of advice you’ve received or lesson that you’ve learned at BCBG?

Besides getting daily tasks and projects done, I’ve learned how to deal with people and solve problems. BCBG is a very fast-paced work environment. It is important for me to handle the pressure and solve problems efficiently.

What career aspirations do you hold for your future?

Textile design or apparel prints for fashion. I would like to do swimwear.

What motivates/inspires you?

When I succeed with a job and get really good feedback from my supervisor. That keeps me motivated and I think that defines success.

What BCBG piece are you dying to own right now?

The Amber Cascade strapless dress, it’s so pretty!

Looking back, what advice would you give yourself on your first day of interning?

Expected the unexpected. I was given a ‘testing” task to recreate a layout of the BCBG’s no. 1 selling floral print. The layout was approved to be developed further since they really liked it. Unexpected task might be given at anytime to see if an intern can handle the work and show good initiative.

What does it take to be a Super Intern? What advice can you give to fellow interns?

Work hard; keep yourself busy, there’s always something to do. There are so many people in the department that need help, you just have to go and ask them what you can do to help them with. I keep myself occupied. My advice is to take this internship opportunity to the fullest and learn from your peers and supervisors. Communication is key.

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By Tess Collins


Alumni Update: Tiia Abbitt, Director of Product Development at Sephora

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Tiila Abbitt Picture
Tiila Abbitt Picture

Tiila Abbitt, 2007 MFA Fashion Design and Knitwear Design.

Tiila Abbitt, 2007 MFA double major in Fashion Design and knitwear design, is turning the fantasy of little girls everywhere into reality. She gets to play with makeup all day- for her job! More specifically, this Academy of Art University Alum is currently the Director of Product Development at Sephora. Tiila talks with Fashion School Daily about trolling on Instagram, drawing inspiration, the fact that she sometimes forgets what year it is and the piece of advice that led her to working at Sephora, her favorite job yet.

Fashion School Daily: Could you tell us a bit about your current job and company?

Tiila Abbitt: I currently work at Sephora as the Director of Product Development. I work on their private label brand, Sephora Collection. I am responsible for designing and developing the accessories business: makeup brushes, brush sets, cosmetic bags, eyelash curlers, hair tools, false lashes, sharpeners- all the tools of the trade that you need for flawless application. It’s my job to take these seemingly day-to-day beauty products and give them all an innovative twist or unique design. I also work on special collaborations including Pantone’s Color of the Year collections, where I also develop makeup formulations as well as the new Alexis Bittar collaboration, which is coming out to stores in November.

 FSD: What is an average day like for you at work?

TA: Product development keeps me on my toes. There is always something to do and always something to create. Every day you have to think about what the next big thing will be in beauty. An average day for me right now has me working on finalizing Spring 2015 products, in the middle of Summer 2015 products and starting to work on Fall 2015. Plus I am already thinking of what we should be doing for Holiday 2015 and into 2016! Sometimes I forget the year it is since I am working in future development. I have to say, I am truly never bored.

 FSD: What do you love about your job?

TA: I love working for Sephora. It truly appreciates the creatives. I work for the largest brand for the company, but it still has the start-up atmosphere. There isn’t a lot of red tape which definitely lets our team think big. We explore as many ideas and opportunities that we think is right for the brand.

 FSD: Where have you found inspiration lately?

TA: Inspiration comes from everywhere. I travel a lot. I like to explore other places and other cultures for inspiration. I work with Beauty Forecasters, whose job it is to forecast future micro and macro trends in beauty, but that’s just one part of it.  I’m always trolling Instagram. I read a million beauty blogs. I study fashion runway trends, attend art exhibits, take photographs … to try and see things in a different light. I look at a lot of beauty makeup products and innovations and think about how I can make a brush or accessory to go along with it. You know, leopard is coming back as a trend, and we’re launching a leopard printed eyeliner curler! Who doesn’t want to carry that in their makeup case? I recently went on a trip to Asia where I went to Japan, Korea and Vietnam for a trade show and to visit with vendors. It was a truly inspirational trip! There is so much innovation coming out of Asia that we decided we must go to the source.

 FSD: What advice would you give to students?

TA: To be open and let fate take a hand. Meet lots of people and try different things to see what you actually enjoy doing. I never thought I would ever work in beauty. I barely wore foundation before I started working at Sephora. The best piece of advice my mentor told me before I took the job was you never know if you are good at it, unless you try it. What’s the worst that can happen? You don’t like it? Then quit. But you will never know unless you try. It was the best piece of advice I ever got and it led me to my favorite job.

 

 

180 Magazine – Issue No. 7

Fashion design scholarship winner’s inspiring road to the Academy

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Photo by Chad Jenkins
Photo by Chad Jenkins

Photo by Chad Jenkins

Sam Shan’s path to the Fashion Design program at Academy of Art University is a little different than most. His is a story of courage, perseverance and a long road traveled.

Shan grew up in Won Pau Village, a small farming village in the hills of the Shan Province of Eastern Burma, now Myanmar. “When I lived there, it did not have electricity or running water. Most people of the village were farmers who took their crops to paddy,” said Shan, whose family grew traditional Asian greens similar to Bok Choy, as well as rice and cabbage.  “It was hard work and hot, but as a boy it was also fun sliding in the mud and playing in it,” he said.

When Shan was 14 years old, fighting broke out between revolutionaries and federal soldiers near his village causing him to flee over the nearby border into Thailand. During the chaos, Shan became separated from his family. “I was on my own and I didn’t know if my family had survived,” said Shan, who still finds the experience painful to talk about.

He made his way south to Malaysia and for the next five years supported himself by working as a cook in a restaurant. In 2010, he emigrated to the U.S. with a United Nations refugee agency, starting out in Salt Lake City, UT then landing in San Francisco, CA, where he truly feels at home.  “I am happy to say that, through Facebook, I have been reunited with my family,” Shan said.

Shan’s passion for fashion design sprung from watching his grandmother make shirts and dresses for the people of his village when he was just a small boy. “I used to help her sew. One fond memory that I have is sitting at her feet while she operated her peddle-powered sewing machine,” said Shan, who also learned to cut material and hand-sew and knit sweaters with her. “My dream of becoming a fashion designer grew out of seeing how my grandmother could make beautiful clothes for people and how wearing those clothes had a positive effect on the people who wore them.”

Photo by Chad Jenkins

Photo by Chad Jenkins

Shan’s formal training began at San Francisco City College, where he recently completed a three-year certificate in fashion design.  “It was a great experience and I learned a lot,” he said. “I feel that it was an important preparation for continuing my studies at Academy of Art University.”

Through his contemporary women’s fashion designs, Shan tries to add creative details to make his clothes more unique and attractive.  “I like to draw inspiration from historical themes and make them more modern,” said Shan, who took the traditional Scottish kilt worn by men and turned it into a modern and feminine look for the present day woman in his most recent fall/winter collection.

“The beauty of nature is also something I draw influence from,” he said.  “My current spring/summer collection draws upon the renewal of life that we see when flowers bloom in the spring.”

Shan was awarded a scholarship by the Academy based on his senior fashion collection from City College.  “I am very grateful to AAU for giving these scholarships to City College fashion students every year,” he said.  “This wonderful and generous gift from the Academy’s President, Elisa Stephens, gives students like me a chance to realize my dream.  Without this, I would not be able to attend the Academy.”

Shan’s dream is to develop his own line of clothing. “I want to explore ways to manipulate fabric to create shapes that demonstrate natural themes, while still allowing a more flowing construction,” he said. “I like to use natural colors that we see every day and that effect how we feel. I am excited about the opportunity that the Academy

Sam Shan with his Fall 2014 collection. Photo by Nicolas Ardelean.

Sam Shan with his Fall 2014 collection. Photo by Nicolas Ardelean.

is giving me to further develop these creative ideas.”

Rebecca Delgado Rottman, Vice President of Community & Government Relations, said that the Academy is thrilled and is looking forward to welcoming Shan this fall. “I am certain that [his] story of overcoming adversity as a kid and rising like a phoenix will inspire both students and staff,” Rottman said. “[Shan] will thrive here and will also love it here. [He] will be in an environment that is supportive, creative and nurturing that will help you realize your potential to the fullest.”

By Alison Pierce

180 Magazine: This is Not Project Runway

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Screen Shot 2014-10-22 at 11.33.11 AMAt the half-way stage of the Master of Fine Arts degree, candidates present their midpoint review. They show the work completed over the duration of their studio courses and propose what they plan to do for their senior thesis project. For designers in the School of Fashion with their sights set on showing at the School of Fashion’s show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, this means presenting their pre-collection.

When MFA Fashion Design students, Wei Bai and Jianxia Ji, decided to collaborate on their pre-collection project, they challenged themselves to produce and present a retail-ready collection of 45 looks and used the opportunity to launch their brand, EMIT.

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Their talent did not go unnoticed by the midpoint review panel and in the fall of 2013, Wei and Jianxia were asked to present their EMIT Fall/Winter 2013/14 Collection in a combined runway show and photo-shoot. The EMIT presentation exemplified the university’s collaborative spirit. Not only did the two designers have the opportunity to work together on the collection, but the student-run fashion club, Beyond the Front Row (BtFR), worked together on a producing the launch event. As a BtFR board member, I had the opportunity to work closely with these two inspiring designers on casting, booking and fitting the models, designing the runway, the lighting and music as well as managing the backstage production at the event.

We sat down and spoke with the designers about their experience launching a line and the process of pre-collection.

To read the full story and interview from 180 magazine and see all of the photos, download the free iPad app here.

 

Story by Sara Lemp

Photography by Aldo Carrera

Styling by Simon Ungless

Clothes by Wei Bai and Jianxia Ji

Alumni Update: Cindy Quach

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Screen Shot 2014-10-22 at 3.32.53 PM

Cindy Quach

Cindy Quach, 2013 BFA Fashion Design, is about more than just designing beautiful clothes, she’s also about giving back. Cindy Quach took time out of her busy schedule that consists of launching a jewelry line, working on a couture line and a tutoring business, to talk with Fashion School Daily about what life has been like for her after graduation. Her admiration of the Earth has inspired her to lead a vegan lifestyle; which expands into her designs. Her animal friendly design process is just one of the things that Cindy is doing to make the world a better place.

What Cindy Quach had to say was inspirational, proving she’s more than just a talented designer, she’s also an exceptionally caring person. Find out how Cindy finds time to give back during her jam packed days and the advice she has to give to current students.

Fashion School Daily: Tell us about what you have been doing since graduation.

Cindy Quach: My days have been filled since graduation. I started a tutoring business a few years ago, and I run that part-time. During the other part of the time, I have managed to launch a jewelry line, CQ by CindyQ, and I work tirelessly on my couture line, Cindy Quach. At the moment, I am fervently working on finishing up a collection that will debut at a fashion show that will take place at the InterContinental Hotel SF at the end of July.

FSD: Tell us about your company. 

CQ: I already mentioned both companies that I’ve started, but allow me to elaborate a bit more. CQ by CindyQ is chic, contemporary, and designer jewelry. A portion of the proceeds from each sale goes to helping children who have been stricken with cancer. Having cancer at any age is a difficult situation. When I think of a child being burdened with this experience, my heart breaks. I hope that my foundation can do a small part to make their experience even just a bit better. The other company that I’ve started is Cindy Quach. Cindy Quach is my creative outlet. I want to push the proverbial fashion envelope. My goal is that when you see Cindy Quach, you stop for a moment, and maybe you feel a bit uncomfortable, but after that first moment, you fall in love with it for everything that it is, just as much as everything that it isn’t. If you don’t understand this yet, don’t worry, you soon will!

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Cindy Quach Designs

FSD: What is an average day like for you at work? 

CQ: I wake up bright and early (at 6:30am), do some type of exercise (it gets the creative juices flowing), eat a small breakfast (a couple pieces of fruit), and it’s off to work. I hang a calendar in my workspace that has everything that I’m going to do for each day. I find that a calendar is an integral part of completing tasks, deadlines, deadlines, deadlines!  After reviewing what I’m to do for the day, I get to work. Some days this might mean that I’m flying out the door to buy some fabric that I need, on other days it might mean that I’m beading some intricate design, and on others this might mean that I’m sewing all day. I work until 4pm in my studio, then it’s time to tutor the kids. I tutor my students until 8pm. After tutoring my students, I have a small dinner, spend a couple of hours catching up on anything that needs my attention, read some self development books, and it’s off to bed by 10:30pm (asleep by eleven).

FSD: What do you love about your job? 

CQ: I love everything about it! But especially…I love the fact that I am my own boss. I love that it feels like there are no limits to what I can do in a fashion sense. I’m constantly looking for where the conventional limits are set so that I can break them. I love that I can take a bunch of things that separately might seem ordinary, and put them together to create something extraordinary! I love beauty and I see it everywhere and in everything (well, almost everything). But I guess what I love most is that the only person that limits me, is me.

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Cindy Quach Designs

FSD: Where have you found inspiration lately? 

CQ: I find inspiration in everything. Everything that I see inspires me in some way, whether I’m conscious of it or not. For my latest collection, I escaped the city and went out into nature to get more connected with the world and all of her inhabitants. Recently, I have become aware of the plight that every non-human animal has been suffering at the hands of our species. These animals have been used for food, clothing, testing of drugs, etc…when it is completely unnecessary and downright cruel. Once I understood what had been going on, I decided that I would no longer contribute. I decided to live a vegan lifestyle, therefore, everything that I create is done without using animals. This has been a paramount inspiration for me. It isn’t just about not using animals, but about being more connected with the Earth and all of its inhabitants. If I had to sum up in one word my inspiration for my latest collection, that word would be Earth.

FSD: What are you interests outside of fashion?

CQ: So many, but how about three? I am most interested in what part I should play in order to make a worthy contribution to the world and everything in it. I know that it is fashion that I am enamored with, so I hope that it will be through fashion that I am able to have the most positive impact on the world. I’m interested in motivation. I find motivation to be at the core of achievement and I often times wonder about how the things I do, or perhaps think about, affect my motivation. I’m very interested in the experiences of others. Through their experiences, I find a deeper understanding of the world.

FSD: What is your favorite memory from your time at the School of Fashion? 

CQ: As much as I enjoyed the sleep deprived nights behind the sewing machine or trying to make sure that the hem on a dress what just right, those are not my fondest memories (shocking, I know). My fondest memories are of going into class and seeing all my peers. I enjoyed having talks with my classmates about an idea that they had for a particular garment or how they were going to overcome a problem that they had been struggling with for a few days. It was the struggle that I remember most fondly though, but not the struggle that I faced alone, but rather, the struggle that we faced and overcame as a class.

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Cindy Quach, hard at work.

 

FSD: What are your goals in the next 3 years?

CQ: After the debut of my couture line at the end of July, my plan is to launch a ready-to-wear line next year. It will be showcased in a charity fashion show that will be hosted in March of 2015. Following this, my goal is to apply to the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund in 2017 and expand my brand.

FSD: What advice would you give to students?

CQ: Follow your dreams and your passion, whatever they are. It doesn’t matter if others believe in you or not, what matters is that you believe in yourself. Keep your faith. Never stop dreaming. Remember that everything is started with a vision, processed, and finished up with hard work.

Alumni Update: Danielle Colen

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Danielle Colen graduated from the Academy of Art University School of Fashion with a MFA in Fashion Design in December of 2012. The patternmaker and designer has since then founded the womenswear line WALTZ in San Francisco. The line is about ease, comfort and restraint with an emphasis on high quality fabrics, construction and tailoring. It’s easy for us to say that WALTZ is 100% chic and 110% fabulous.

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WALTZ collection from waltzstudio.com

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WALTZ collection from waltzstudio.com

Fashion School Daily: Tell us about what you have been doing since graduation? Tell us about Waltz!

Danielle Colen: I have been in San Francisco since graduation and have no plans of leaving!  Right after graduating, I went to work as a patternmaker and sample sewer for an interdisciplinary creative studio called Small Trade Company.  I worked on our in-house line of apparel, aprons and bags, as well as commissioned projects ranging from hotel and restaurant uniforms to home furnishings and custom apparel.  The company sources beautiful and rare textiles from Asia and other parts of the world, so I was able to see and learn a great deal about textiles from around the globe. I left Small Trade in June 2014 to focus exclusively on building my own womenswear line, called WALTZ, which launched this past September for SS15.  The line is made up of minimal wardrobe staples.  WALTZ aims to create classic, timeless pieces that will be the foundation of a woman’s streamlined wardrobe. Everything is manufactured in the USA.

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WALTZ collection from waltzstudio.com

FSD: Where do you find inspiration?

DC: I look at a lot of art, design, and fashion blogs and collect a lot of images.  A few of my go-to blogs are I’m Revolting, A Drawing Diary, Death by Elocution, and Beatpie.  Usually there isn’t a direct link between the images I collect and my work, but I’m sure they are inspiring me subconsciously, particularly in terms of color direction.  I approach designing from more of a practical standpoint.  I am my own target customer so I start by thinking about the foundational pieces that are missing from my own wardrobe, say the perfect relaxed trench coat.  I then spend time gathering images of other trench coats that are out there, both current and vintage, and try to come up with my own version.  Usually this involves removing elements and pairing down to the essentials.

FSD: What are your plans for the future?

DC: My plans for the future are to keep growing WALTZ.  My first collection will be carried at a few bay area stores starting this spring including Mill Mercantile, Voyager and Beklina. I’d like to broaden the reach for FW15 and work with stores in other cities across the country.  I also plan to launch e-commerce on my website www.waltzstudio.com this spring.

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WALTZ collection from waltzstudio.com

FSD: What advice would you give to current students?

DC: Figure out who you are as a designer, and make sure you leave with a portfolio that speaks to you and your strengths.  If you aren’t a high-fashion runway designer, don’t try to push yourself to be one.  It will only cause heartache.  There is room in the world for all kinds of designers.

I worked with a lot of great AAU alumni to get my first collection off the ground and I’d love to mention them and thank them here! Tanja Milutinovic (MFA textile design) and I collaborated on the prints for SS15; Aldo Carrera (BFA photography) shot the lookbook; Jisun Lee (MFA Fashion Design) helped me sew the samples; and Ana Clara Backes Martin (MFA Fashion Design) was my fairy godmother and helped me with pretty much everything.  So be kind to your classmates!  They may end up being your collaborators even after school.

Also, I would love to hear from any design or marketing students interested in interning at WALTZ.  I can be reached through my website www.waltzstudio.com.

For more information about Waltz please email info@waltzstudio.com.

 

 

VIDEO: The Making of SHOP657

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Watch how the  Shop657 retail store came together as the result of the hard work of School of Fashion students. Senior Director of Fashion Merchandising Keanan Duffty is joined by visitors from Nike, who chime in why SHOP657 gives essential real-world experience to Academy of Art University students.

To read more about the Nike visit to SHOP657 check out this write-up by editorial intern Tess Collins.


Celina Enriquez: New York Diary Day 3

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Thursday, January 8th:

Bright and early—7 AM— Busara and I got up and out of our very comfortable, warm beds to get ready for the Internship Fair! We met Michelle and Martin next door at Demarco Coffee – we all needed a little kick from the previous day’s events. We walked through the windy, freezing cold weather to the Internship Fair located at another hotel.

IMG_3572As we arrived I, of course, spotted the snacks immediately… and more coffee? Hallelujah!

Numerous companies had tables set up with their recruiters and it was such a privilege that we got an opportunity to network with so many companies. Among the companies offering internships were Kohl’s, NYDJ, The Doneger Group, Randa Accessories, Nautica, Michael Kors, Ralph Lauren, Macy’s, Under Armour, Global Brands Group, Men’s Wearhouse, Ross and Perry Ellis. So many! This was such a great way to connect and network with so many internship opportunities and even possibly, future employers. The best part is that all the recruiters were very excited to be there to talk to me and were all so welcoming! For someone like me who was a little iffy about networking, my experience in those couple of days had changed my perspective – it’s really not scary at all. In fact, it was great to learn so much more about the companies that were attending.

After the internship fair – I made sure to note down which companies I had spoken to and wanted to reach out to within 24 hours. We’d been advised to contact key people not long after we had met them at the fair in order to show that we were interested in their internship opportunities – and we were!

Wide-eyed and ready to explore – I checked out of the hotel with Busara and continued on with my adventure in the big city. I stayed another three days to explore as much of NYC as I could and even as I was leaving Sunday afternoon, I still wanted more! I vowed that I would find a reason to come back to such a beautiful city with the most amazing energy.

This was one of my best adventures yet and I’m so grateful for the YMA Organization for allowing me the opportunity to visit New York. Saying it was an inspiring trip is an understatement – it gave me so much encouragement to keep working hard and to keep learning. It really was more than just about winning the $5,000 scholarship; it was about someone telling me, “Thank you for working so hard, keep believing in what you love to do. It’ll always be worth it.”

So, next fall, when the YMA Fashion Scholarship Fund (FSF) Case Study comes out again – apply! I’ve never won anything before this (not even those scratch off cards!), but I worked hard on this project and it was absolutely worth it.

As with a lot of things in life, you really never know unless you try and I encourage you to try because it could be you going on an amazing New York adventure next year – and believe me, it’s an experience of a lifetime.

 

Written by Celina Enriquez, BFA Fashion Merchandising

Insider advice: Fashion Xchange Magazine Explains How to Launch a Fashion Mag

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Academy of Art University opens SHOP657

Blanc Noir & Couture | Issue No.9

Have you spent your life dreaming of starting up your own magazine? Maybe you want to create a magazine about your favorite activity ( Shopping? Following celebrities?) or maybe you want to get information out into the world about an issue you are passionate about as a contributing editor. Whatever your reason, this article will help. I recently had the opportunity to interview journalist and fashion stylist Ivanna Wood who is the fashion and managing editor for Fashion Xchange Magazine. Ivanna shares her experience in the creative journey that began when Fashion Xchange Magazine launched in January 2014 as well as tells FSD about their plans to grow as a international publication. Fashion Xchange Magazine is currently accepting interns and contributing editors, for more information regarding this please contact them directly.

Jeanie Walsh: How did Fashion Xchange Magazine get off the ground?  When did you start?

Ivanna Woods: It started as the idea of editor-in-chief Robert Silver in early December of 2013. Fashion Xchange Magazine derived from the frustration he felt through his experience as a fashion photographer. He felt that there was a lack of high fashion magazines based in the Bay Area that he could work with that were of quality.

Fairies & Sirens: Sue Wong at Style Fashion Week by Caity Shreve | Blanc Noir & Couture Issue

JW: Who is the target audience for Fashion Xchange? 

IW: Our target audience is emerging and established professionals and fashion enthusiasts, from models to photographers to stylists. Our average readers are between the ages of 18-34 and are image conscious individuals who enjoy strong editorial content about the business of fashion.

JW: What’s the mission of Fashion Xchange? Where do you see the magazine in five years?

IW: Fashion Xchange is a monthly fashion industry trade magazine. We deliver informative content and focus on presenting in-depth analysis of the ever-changing fashion industry. In five years we hope to have our publication available to readers in print and hardcopy on an international level.

JW: What were some of the hurdles you had to overcome when launching this new magazine?

IW: One of the greatest struggles was balancing earning a living income and releasing the next issue. Our editor had experience as a professional photographer, but had absolutely no experience running a magazine. I am an experienced writer, editor, and fashion stylist for my company The Savvy Wearapist, but I had no experience coming up with an entire magazine full of article ideas, handpicking writers and interns, designing an editorial calendar or motivating others to contribute work. We had to motivate others to contribute work, constantly seek new talent, attend events to build the brand, photograph and network at fashion shows, and promote ourselves on social media. With many obstacles in our way, we made a conscious decision not to focus on making money within the first year, but to make it a priority to do whatever it takes to gain exposure and increase visibility. We were creating the magazine all while continuously trying to build a brand name that gained industry recognition.

JW: What kinds of stories are included in the magazine?

IW: We cover interviews with emerging and established fashion talent and leading professionals, we attend and write about industry events, fashion news and style trends.

JW: Do you have any internship or writing opportunities for current students?

IW:  Yes, we are always accepting 3rd or 4th year students who are enthusiastic about the industry and have a passion for fashion. We are always looking to collaborate with students who are talented designers, photographers, hair and makeup artists and writers. Interested students can contact us about opportunities with the magazine.

JW: Any advice for students hoping to start their own publication?

IW: With the advent of social media, micro blogging, texting, internet TV, readers attention can be distracted at any given moment. You must respect the one minute of the day they devote to reading your content. Remember that always, and produce a consistent amount of content. Your readers need to trust and rely on your timeline.

JW: How can readers access the magazine?

IW: Readers can currently access our latest and past issues on our website FashionXchangeMag.com Digital downloads are available and print copies are available on our website.  We will be printing 4,000 hardcopies by mid 2015.

 

Written by Jeanie Walsh

School of Fashion Welcomes Assistant Director of Fashion Journalism, Stephan Rabimov

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Newly appointed, Assistant Director of Fashion Journalism, Stephan Rabimov.

Newly appointed, Assistant Director of Fashion Journalism, Stephan Rabimov.

Meet Stephan Rabimov, the newly appointed Assistant Director of  the Fashion Journalism program. With a decade of experience in a plethora of mediums including both digital and print publishing, and industry knowledge in public relations, adept is an understatement. Rabimov is the founder of RABIMOV Public Relations, Executive Fashion Editor of Dot429 Magazine and Editor in-Chief of DEPESHA, a Russian ex-patriate fashion and arts magazine. He has also been a white knight for many an emerging designer orchestrating noteworthy runway debuts at New York,  St. Petersburg, Toronto and Vancouver Fashion Weeks and produced the first ever Russian Fashion Industry Presentation inside the Russian Consulate in New York City, where he’s lived on and off for the past twelve years. Considering Rabimov’s extensive curriculum vitae, there is little shock in the revelation that Fashion Journalism’s new Assistant Director has also been interviewed and published in Women’s Wear Daily, The Wall Street Journal, Forbes, CNN, Yahoo, the Examiner and the Huffington Post. On Friday, I asked him a few questions, these were his responses:

Malcolm Thomas: You have a Bachelor’s in Mathematics and a Master’s in International Affairs and Statistics, how did you get into fashion?

Stephen Rabimov: I am possibly one of the few people to have ever moved from Mathematics into Fashion; but then again, Anna Wintour moved from House & Garden into Vogue and she is doing fine.

MT: You seem to have strong ties to Russia and the Russian fashion industry, is that where you’re from?

SR: I am from a place Winston Churchill once called: “a riddle, wrapped in a mystery, inside an enigma.”

MT: As a journalist, a new media communications and public relations and marketing professional, how do you do it all?

SR: Sleep is overrated.

MT: What are you most excited about as the new addition to the Fashion Journalism team?

SR: 180 Magazine – it is one of the most high caliber publications I have ever seen, and I am thrilled to be a part of it.

MT: What’s in store for the Fashion Journalism department this year?

SR: Fashion. Journalism. Internships.

MT: What is the hardest lesson you learnt while working in fashion?

SR: I think the hardest lesson is yet to come. However, there was this one time when I had to pick up the broom and sweep the floors because the cleaning staff failed to show up and we needed to prepare for the event.  Don’t be afraid to get your hands dirty.

MT: What is your advice to students looking to break into the business?

SR: Do it first, do it well. Ask later.

MT: What is one quirk, you’d like to share about yourself that no one knows?

SR: I march to my own beat.

 

Check out his latest Huffington Post article, here: http://huff.to/1DaIvkK 

 

Written by: Malcolm Thomas

Academy of Art University |Fall 2015 Beauty Trends at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week

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It was all about transformation at the Academy of Art University Fall 2015 Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week show. Sculpting and shaping were the hot beauty trends being applied to models.

The scene backstage at Lincoln Center on the day of the show, Valentine’s day,  was extremely fast paced yet organized, with a huge number of people working to complete varied tasks all within a short span of time.

Each station backstage was arranged in a systematic way for efficient, speedy work for this large scale production. To get every facial feature covered in the short time allotted, multiple artists worked on each model simultaneously. One makeup artist worked on makeup while a hair stylist perfected the model’s hair.

MAC backstage set-up. Image Courtesy of Stacy Murphy Photography.

MAC backstage set-up. Image Courtesy of Stacy Murphy Photography.

MAC has always been my go-to source for every event and styling shoot that I have produced while attending Academy of Art University so I was thrilled when I found out that Victor Cembellin, senior makeup artist for MAC Cosmetics, would be the lead artist for the show creating the looks together with the MAC PRO team. With over 20 years of industry experience, Cembellin’s credits include freelance editorial makeup artist, educator at the Academy of Art University and also Senior Makeup Artist for North America at MAC Cosmetics.

Victor Cembellin, Senior Artist, MAC Cosmetics

Victor Cembellin, Senior Artist, MAC Cosmetics

Backstage Cembellin masterfully created the looks on the models using several key products, including MAC Cosmetics Studio Waterweight Foundation, which will be released in the fall. “This season we are playing with architecture, we are playing with the shapes of each of the models eyes, ” explained Cembellin.

Victor Cembellin backstage at Academy of Art University show during NYFW. Image Courtesy of Stacy Murphy Photography

Victor Cembellin backstage at Academy of Art University show during NYFW. Image Courtesy of Stacy Murphy Photography

To get this look, the MAC Pro Team played with several products. ‘Baby Don’t Go’ is their sculpting product along with a cream colored base from MAC called, ‘Hush’. Instead of playing with color, the team of artists experimented more with placement, shapes and tones. It was all about sculpting and adding a dynamic shape to each of the model’s eyes.

Complementing the sculpted makeup look was a sleek, almost wet-looking hairstyle with a samurai knot dreamed up by hair guru Jon Reyman for Aveda.

Samurai Knot by Jon Reyman. Image courtesy of Stacy Murphy photography.

Samurai Knot by Jon Reyman. Image courtesy of Stacy Murphy photography.

Jon Reyman at backstage at Academy of Art University show during NYFW. Image courtesy of Stacy Murphy Photography.

Jon Reyman at backstage at Academy of Art University show during NYFW. Image courtesy of Stacy Murphy Photography.

 Image: Stacy Murphy Photography- Academy of Art University Fall 2015 runway show at MBFW.

Image: Stacy Murphy Photography- Academy of Art University Fall 2015 runway show at MBFW.

I was able to steal a few minutes of Cembellin’s time to ask him a few questions, these were his responses:

Jeanie Walsh: How do you start your day?

Victor Cembellin: I enjoy taking my dog, Pinto Bean, for a walk in the morning, carving out time for a coffee run, and if I’m good, going for a quick jog.

JW: How many years now have you been the makeup artist for the Academy of Art University shows?

VC: The first time I keyed the Academy’s show was New York Fashion Week Autumn/Winter in 2009. I have been privileged to connect with Simon Ungless and so many other wonderful talents. There have even been lavish editorial spreads, covers of countless magazines, and the honorable opportunity to become an instructor at the Academy of Art University itself.

JW: What was the inspiration behind the look for the Academy of Art University Fall 2015 show? Where do you draw your inspiration and ideas from?

VC: It’s the designer’s moment to showcase their signature collections, so it’s important to create a look that complements while creating continuity throughout the show. As a makeup artist, I have always considered myself a storyteller who draws inspiration from various sources. This season I wanted to tell a moody beauty story with a nod to 1990’s supermodels by using the architecture of each model’s fa­ce as the focal point.

JW: Which products did you use at the Academy of Art University Fall 2015 show?

VC: The star products for the AAU show were MAC Cosmetics Baby Don’t Go Pro Longwear Blush to sculpt cheekbones, MAC Cosmetics Coquette Eye Shadow to define the eyes and create a bit of mood and androgyny, MAC Cosmetics Hush Cream Colour Base for natural highlighting of facial contours, and MAC Cosmetics Studio Waterweight Foundation to invisibly conceal and neutralize lip tones.

JW: What are some other shows that you are creating the look for this season?

VC: MAC Cosmetics is supporting over 70 shows this season in New York alone. There are a lot of different looks, but at the same time, a lot of consistency backstage. Personally, I’ll be working on Carolina Herrera, Rachel Zoe, and Oscar de la Renta. I also designed the look for the 45 male models at Perry Ellis.

JW: Do you have any runway beauty tips that can be used for street wear beauty?

VC: One of the biggest beauty buzzwords right now is “reality.” The makeup trend is to visibly improve and reveal your best features without necessarily trying to change your look. This can easily be achieved with a product like MAC Cosmetics Studio Waterweight Foundation, which provides coverage that appears virtually invisible to the naked eye.

JW: What are the biggest beauty trends right now? What color palette and products are currently trending?

VC: Last season we celebrated minimal makeup. Bridging into fall, we’re keeping skin clean and fresh but adding signature statements like a bold lip or a strong liner. In terms of color, we’re seeing black liners replaced with graphite, pastels with shots of grey added to create a unique tonality, and the return of metallics.

 JW: What are five things you’re loving right now?

VC: 1. Matte Lips: Watch out for this trend and for the new MAC Cosmetics Retro Matte Liquid Lipsticks, which are being sported all over NYFW.

  1. Individuality: Fashion and makeup have become so much about celebrating identity and creativity.
  2. Classic novels: Because they force me to put the iPhone down.
  3. Food: I’m attempting to become a “foodie” (although it’s a bit expensive to dine out in San Francisco).
  4. Hair: I have purely done makeup for 20 years and I’m now trying to learn the basics of hair

JW: Was beauty something you were always interested in? Where do you see yourself headed in the next few years?

VC: I actually discovered beauty while performing in theatre back in high school. I immediately loved makeup’s transformational qualities. This was during the time when artists like Madonna would use fashion, hair, and makeup to redefine their identity for a brief moment. I knew I had to be a part of that magic.

Only time will tell where I’m headed. It’s so unclear where I may find myself working or travelling to next, but this marks my 20th year with MAC Cosmetics. Another role I love is working at the Academy and lending my experiences to emerging artists who are embarking on their creative journeys.

Follow Victor Cembellin along in his career with MAC Cosmetics on Twitter at @MAC_Victor_C and on Instagram @victorcembellin.

 

By Jeanie Walsh, MFA Fashion Journalism

Follow my blog, 1Trendii as I share my experiences of working in PR at the School of Fashion. My cousin Stacy Murphy, a Boston-based photographer, flew in to help me capture the backstage energy to share with all of you. We created a short video of backstage footage from the Academy of Art University Fall 2015 fashion show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week (MBFW); in the video you’ll find interviews with lead makeup artist Victor Cembellin and his MAC PRO team, Aveda lead hairstylist Jon Reyman, School of Fashion Executive Director Simon Ungless and many more.

Meet the Spring 2015 Interns: Jeanie Walsh

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M.F.A. Fashion Journalism Jeanie Walsh   Image:Stacy Murphy
M.F.A. Fashion Journalism Jeanie Walsh   Image:Stacy Murphy

M.F.A. Fashion Journalism Student Jeanie Walsh, Image:Stacy Murphy

You can tell a lot about a person by their smile and M.F.A. Fashion Journalism student and School of Fashion PR and Special Events intern, Jeanie Walsh, always has a bright one. As tall as her heels, Ms. Walsh’s towering persona, both literally and figuratively make her a presence in any room. Yet, one on one, Walsh is gentle, caring and kind. Never afraid to look you in the eyes when she speaks and maternal in her delivery, there’s a lot that even we don’t know about her, until now.

Malcolm Thomas: What was your first fashion memory?

Jeanie Walsh: Interesting story behind that. I grew up with a family that wasn’t very fashion savvy, so I was not exposed to style and fashion. I wore hand-me-down clothes, i was not well dressed and my hair was always short. My first fashion memory came from seeing my mother wear a fit and flare dress with spaghetti straps to go dancing with my father. I remember how feminine and beautiful she looked. From that moment on I have always yearned for fashion, style and long hair. My true love for fashion ­­came when I moved to Southern California in my early twenties, where I worked as a model and acted in movies and commercials. Being exposed to the world of luxury fashion in LA and costume design on the movie sets opened my eyes to the fantastical world of fashion.

MT: Tell me about your blog 1trendii how did that come about?

JW:My blog came about after taking several journalism classes at Academy of Art University. It was when I took FSH 641 OL1: MS: News & Short Lead Boot Camp with Paul Wilner that I truly became inspired to start my own blog.

1Trendii is a fashion and lifestyle platform that delivers inspiration for women to discover and refine their personal style. 1Trendii is committed to bringing the latest celebrity news, beauty and  fashion trends to you. My background, education and experience in the fashion and entertainment industry will be my guide in sharing my knowledge in hopes to inspire, empower and spread friendship, love and laughter with women around the globe. Through my passions and tricks of the trade each week I will share my personal style and fashion finds to smart, creative and stylish women. 1Trendii is a go-to resource for everything beauty, fashion, lifestyle and provides the scoop on the hottest new trends and most stylish ways to wear them.

MT: How has being a mother of four affected the pursuit of your career goals?

JW: It is tough being a mother of four as it can be more than a full time job. They have inspired me as they have grown older and have modeled for me in all of my Academy of Art University styling projects. They give me first hand insight into the shopping and behavioral habits of the millennials.

MT: Fashion is controversial, what’s one thing you’d like to see change?

JW: The manufacturing of fashion is very controversial and there must be stricter guidelines that are adhered to in order to eliminate child labor and quality control.

MT: How do you decide what to wear in the morning?

JW: I always plan my wardrobe the night before and dress accordingly with an edge. I was always that mom at the playground with my children wearing a maxi dress and platforms.

MT: What’s more important, style or fashion?

JW: Style because it sets us apart from everyone. Style is what dictates my fashion choices.

 

By: Malcolm Thomas

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