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NYFW Spring 2016 Designer: Wenhan Yuan

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Illustrated lineup by Wenhan Yuan
Wenhan Yuan; Photo by Bob Toy

Wenhan Yuan; Photo by Bob Toy

Wenhan Yuan, MFA Fashion Design, was born and raised in Yanji Jinlin, China. After completing her Bachelor of Fine Arts in Fashion Design, she worked as a visual merchandising intern at Yanbian International Department Store. She also has experience working as a freelance fashion designer at creative MPK studio in Yanji, China.

Illustrated lineup by Wenhan Yuan

Illustrated lineup by Wenhan Yuan

Yuan’s senior collection was created with a variety of materials like cotton, suit fabrics and paper textured fabrics. The collection reflects the natural aspect of a woman’s life. Wenhan deliberately reflects a sensuous woman in men’s clothing. “My collection emphasizes showing fresh style, pure sex and emotion. The whole collection is based on a natural feel, which is more feminine and girly,” explained Yuan.

Mood board by Wenhan Yuan

Mood board by Wenhan Yuan

Fashion School Daily: What is the best advice you have ever received?

Wenhan Yuan: Being true to yourself.

FSD: What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion?

WY: Seeing models wearing my completed designs.

FSD: Who are your favorite fashion icons and why?

WY: Yohji Yamamoto. His design is naturally casual and comfortable, which is always been my goal in my design life.

 

Written by Yuna ChoiBFA Merchandising


NYFW Spring 2016 Designer: Livia Bianda

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Illustrated lineup by Livia Bianda
Livia Bianda; Photo by Bob Toy

Livia Bianda; Photo by Bob Toy

BFA Fashion Designer Livia Bianda was born and raised in Jakarta, Indonesia. While in high school Bianda was named South East Youth Softball Tournament Champion in 2008 and 2009. Upon moving to California, Bianda attended community college in Cupertino before enrolling at Academy of Art University to pursue her love of fashion. Since then, she has immersed herself in the design world, serving as the menswear intern at Alexander Wang in New York during the summer of 2014, assisting 2014 Academy of Art University seniors with their graduation collections, contributing to the design development process and assisting in styling menswear looks as a part of the design team for the Indonesia Day festival in San Francisco. In March of 2014, Bianda’s work was chosen by Academy of Art University to participate in the first round of the Joe’s Blackbook Design Competition in New York.

Illustrated lineup by Livia Bianda

Illustrated lineup by Livia Bianda

Bianda’s lycra, mesh, pinstripe wool and pinstripe cotton graduation collection was inspired by the uniforms and exaggerated silhouettes seen on football players. What’s even cooler than Bianda’s mesh pullover t-shirts and two-layered pants are the built in backpacks and fanny packs that adorn of her garments.

Mood board by Livia Bianda

Mood board by Livia Bianda

Fashion School Daily: What is the best advice you have ever received?

Livia Bianda: Take it one step at a time.

FSD: What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion?

LB: Having lunch and dinner with my fellow creative and talented classmates after going through non-stop drafting, cutting, and sewing all day.

FSD: Who are your favorite fashion icons and why?

LB: Raf Simons for his radical menswear fashion, and his own way of interpreting traditional menswear structures.

 

Written by Malcolm Thomas, BFA Fashion Journalism

NYFW Spring 2016 Designer: Jingci Wang

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Illustrated lineup by Jessie (Jingci) Wang
Jessie (Jingci) Wang; Photo by Bob Toy

Jingci Wang; Photo by Bob Toy

Jingci Wang, MFA Fashion Design, was born in Hei Long Jiang province, China. She relocated to Qin Huang Dao, China where she grew up. She completed her Bachelor of Arts in Fashion Design in China and worked at Starview Trading Limited where she designed lingerie, underwear and sleepwear collections. She won the second prize for the Bosideng scholarship, the Okawa Textile Company Competition Finalist Award, the 3rd Gunze Fashion Design-China T-shirt Recognition Award and the Triumph Inspiration China National Competition Finalist Award. While working toward her graduate degree, Wang worked at Dan group in San Francisco where she assisted in designing women’s wear collections. In addition, she collaborated on a menswear collection with other designers showcasing at 2014 Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York.

Illustrated lineup by Jingci Wang and Max Lu

Wang, in collaboration with Max Lu MFA Fashion Design, uses high quality fabrics and new materials such as lame, metallic, leather, and sequin to present the collection. Wang and Lu sewed 3D samples of leather to test the weight to see if they can sew it onto lighter materials. “We wanted to combine the hardness and softness of fabrics to bring the balance of harmony and express vagueness and clearness of a blurry dream,” said Wang.

Mood board by Jessie (Jingci) Wang and Max Lu

Mood board by Jingci Wang and Max Lu

Fashion School Daily: What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion?

Jessie Wang: I love working on the collections with my classmates everyday. We work hard together. We eat together. We say good night to each other when we go home.

FSD: What is your style motto?

JW: Be yourself! Do what you want.

FSD: Which talent would you most like to have?

JW: A really good memory. I always admire the people who have a good memory.

 

Written by Yuna ChoiBFA Merchandising

NYFW Spring 2016 Designer: Max Lu

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Mood board by Jessie (Jingci) Wang and Max Lu
Max Lu; Photo by Bob Toy

Max Lu; Photo by Bob Toy

Max Lu, MFA Fashion Design, was born in Taipei, Taiwan and grew up in Taipei City. After he completed his Bachelor of Fine Arts in Fashion Design, he worked as a freelance print pattern designer and a freelance fashion stylist assistant. Back in Taiwan he received an Honorable Mention Award from the Competition of Taiwan Textile Federation and won first prize at Manga Fashion Design Competition. He then worked as an assistant technical designer for Academy of Art University’s Fashion Show during New York Fashion Week in 2013.

Illustrated lineup by Max Lu and Jessie Wang

Illustrated lineup by Max Lu and Jingci Wang

Lu’s collection, in collaboration with Jingci Wang MFA Fashion Design, aims to express ambiguous and unclear forms from a blurry dream. According to Lu, “ You can see some of parts very clear, but some of parts you can’t see from a blurry dream. Our collection was based on this kind of feeling.” The collection features 1950’s classic and elegant silhouettes and new edge style. They focused on clear cuts and special shapes to create their designs.

Mood board by Max Lu and Jessie Wang

Mood board by Max Lu and Jessie Wang

Fashion School Daily: What is the best advice you have ever received?

Max Lu: Don’t take all of the advice you receive from others. Chew it first and throw it away if it tastes bad.

FSD: Ignoring the cost, what item of clothing / bag / designer would you buy right now?

ML: A Christian Dior high neck coat from 1950’s. That is dream item for me.

FSD: What is your style motto?

ML: You are what you wear. Being yourself makes you unique

 

Written by Yuna ChoiBFA Merchandising

NYFW Spring 2016 Designer: Bom Kim

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Illustrated lineup by Bom Kim and

 

Bom Kim; Photo by Bob Toy

Bom Kim; Photo by Bob Toy

Bom Kim, MFA Knitwear Design, was born and raised in Seoul, South Korea. For her Spring 2016 collection, Kim is collaborating with MFA Fashion Design student Liz Li.

Illustrated lineup by Bom Kim and

Illustrated lineup by Bom Kim and Liz Li

For their collaborative collection, Kim and Li were inspired by traditional Chinese painting and the juxtaposition of abstract painting and freehand brush work. Their inspiration can be clearly seen in the collection, which features hand painted fabrics, embroidery, and custom knitwear designed by Kim.

Mood board by Bom Kim and Liz Li

Mood board by Bom Kim and Liz Li

Fashion School Daily: What is the best advice you have ever received?

Bom Kim: Fake until you make it.

FSD: What is your style motto?

BK: Just be myself! From my closet I get the most use out of my black culottes and sweaters.

FSD: What advice would you give students who want to do collection?

BK: Be open minded—it’s worth a try! Experiment with things you were given from instructors.

 

Written by Yuna Choi, BFA Merchandising

NYFW Spring 2016 Designer: Liz Li

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Illustrated lineup by Liz Li and Bom Kim
Liz Li; Photo by Bob Toy

Liz Li; Photo by Bob Toy

Liz Li, MFA Fashion Design, was born in Wenzhou, in the Zhejiang Province of China, and grew up in Shanghai. Before coming to Academy of Art University Li earned her BA in Fashion Design and Engineering. While living in Shanghai, Li worked as a design assistant at PCCS Garment Co. Ltd, and as print designer for Zhuang Rong Qipao Co. Ltd. While Li was pursuing her master’s degree at Academy of Art University, she concurrently worked as a fashion designer for San Francisco-based brand the DNA Group. Li also assisted a group of School of Fashion MFA designers with the construction of their Spring 2015 collection, which was shown at New York Fashion Week in September 2014.

Illustrated lineup by Liz Li and Bom Kim

Illustrated lineup by Liz Li and Bom Kim

For her Spring 2016 collection, Li is collaborating with MFA Knitwear Designer Bom Kim. Li and Bom were inspired by traditional Chinese painting as well as by modern art. “The combination of abstract painting and freehand brushstrokes turns tradition into something modern, romantic and dramatic. The idea comes from my childhood experience, specifically when I first studied traditional Chinese painting after doing modern Western painting for many years,” explains Li.

The collection features 1940s-inspired A-line silhouettes, which “create volume, and make the collection sculpted and airy.” Linen and transparent fabrics enhance the collection’s summery feel; a color story inspired by the seasons roots the collection with a natural palette, which is set off by contrasting black details.

Who might wear this collection? “My girl is cool but also feminine. She likes wearing oversize garments and also loves art. She travels to different places to see different culture,” says Li.

Mood board by Liz Li and Bom Kim

Mood board by Liz Li and Bom Kim

Fashion School Daily: What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion?

Liz Li: Making friends who have the same dream. We encourage each other and have grown up together.

FSD: What is your greatest style regret?

LL: Mixing too many elements into one style.

FSD: What advice would you give students who want to do collection?

LL: No matter how difficult the progress is, don’t give up.

 

Written by Yuna Choi, BFA Merchandising

 

Student Spotlight: Sarah Lemp

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Sarah Lemp; Image Courtesy of Sarah Lemp
Sarah Lemp; Image Courtesy of Sarah Lemp

Sarah Lemp; Image Courtesy of Sarah Lemp

Sarah Lemp, BFA Fashion Merchandising student isn’t holding back when it comes to planning her future. She has been moving forward in her career path through various experiences including volunteering at Beyond the Front Row events, interning at LA showroom SHO+CO, interning for the School of Fashion PR and Special Events office, working at Allison Speer PR in San Francisco and winning the YMA Fashion Scholarship Fund (FSF) for her case study for creating a brand for JCPENNY’s target customers.

Her current role is Editorial Intern at Joyus, where she works on editorial coverage for their website and social media. She feels the passion and drive when she is in the Joyus office—it’s this energy and company philosophy that makes her want to be enthusiastic about what she does.

Sarah Lemp; Image Courtesy of Sarah Lemp

Sarah Lemp; Image Courtesy of Sarah Lemp

Fashion School Daily: You’re a merchandising major, yet you’ve held a number of PR and journalism internships. What sparked your interest in PR and fashion journalism? How do you see your education in merchandising fitting with your interest in PR?

Sarah Lemp: When I first started at Academy of Art University, I thought I knew exactly what I wanted to do post-grad. It wasn’t until I started taking different kinds of fashion classes, volunteering and interning, that I truly found what fueled me creatively. I have always loved to write and when I took a Fashion Journalism class at Academy of Art University it reinforced that loved even more. I volunteered for every single Beyond the Front Row event—it was so exciting to see how fashion shows and events were planned and orchestrated. Through my experience with Beyond the Front Row, I learned the ins and outs of event planning and was hungry to learn about Public Relations as a whole. I started interning within the PR world and it was then that I realized that was what I wanted to do. Merchandising and Marketing go hand in hand and I think it is vital to understand the fashion business in its entirety in order to successfully represent a brand.

FSD: You have a lot of PR and editorial experience, including interning in the School of Fashion PR and Special Events office last Spring, interning at the LA showroom SHO+CO last summer, working at Allison Speer PR and your current role as the Editorial Intern at Joyus. How do you feel these positions are prepping you for your career post-graduation?

SL: I’ve learned so much throughout my experiences working and interning—and I am still learning! I’ve had the opportunity to learn how a Public Relations office operates, which was very exciting for me and taught me a lot. Through my work with Allison Speer, I have been able to help facilitate events for VIP clients like ELLE Mag, Maison Martin Margiela, Burberry, Dior, Carolina Herrera, Andrew Gn, Christian Louboutin, and more! SHO+CO West helped me to understand the celebrity and styling aspect of the fashion business, which is crucial for brand exposure nowadays. So far, at Joyus, I have been drafting original content for the site and social media as well as working with the rest of the Editorial team. All of these experiences have positively pushed me in the right direction—after I graduate I can show I have the experience to accompany my degree.

Joyus Logo; Image via Joyus.com

Joyus Logo; Image via Joyus.com

FSD: You landed a spot as a winner of the YMA Fashion Scholarship Fund (FSF) for your case study. What was case study about? Did it help you move forward in your career path? If so, how did it help? What was the biggest advantage of winning this award?

SL: The case study assigned was to create an original brand for JCPENNY that would appeal to the millennial customer. I created a jewelry brand named Lone Wolf, which could aesthetically be compared to Anthropologie or Urban Outfitters. It was a whirlwind of an experience. I worked like crazy on the case study and shortly after the winners were announced, we were flown to NYC for an awards dinner. The whole thing inspired me to trust my creative voice and not be afraid to take risks within projects. I still get emails from YMA regarding events, private lectures, and job openings—they continue to help you in your career path long after the awards dinner.

FSD: When you interned in the School of Fashion PR and Special Events office you had the opportunity to go to New York and attend and work at the Academy of Art University’s New York Fashion Week Show. How was that experience? How was it different than other fashion shows that you’ve worked on?’

SL: Nothing quite compares to the energy of New York Fashion Week. It was such an amazing experience to be a part of. I remember getting to the Lincoln Center tent on the day of the show and thinking, ‘Wow, this is it’. It was a surreal moment. I got to know the designers who were showing their collection, which made the experience even more personal. Prior to the show I wrote designer biographies for Fashion School Daily and visited the NYC design studio to see how everything was coming along. Once the collections walked the runway, it was actually quite emotional.

FSD: You’ve always been very active with the School of Fashion’s club, Beyond the Front Row. How did you get involved in the organization, and what have you done with/through the club? How did your work with the club prepare you for your internships and jobs?

SL: I’ve always been the person who likes to be actively involved. So, naturally, I signed up for Beyond the Front Row the first chance I got. I started as a dresser backstage, then worked front of house, and after two years of being an active member, I applied for the BTFR board. Being on the board has been such a great experience—we are like family. It has pushed me to assume a leadership role, which helps me in all aspects of life.

Joyus Facebook Page; Image via Facebook.com

Joyus Facebook Page; Image via Facebook.com

FSD: When you talked with FSD about a year ago you said that your goal at the moment was to land an internship with a local San Francisco company. Interning at Joyus accomplished your goal—could you tell us how you learned about and got the job? What drew you to the position?

SL: I am a firm believer that networking is key. I stayed in contact with the Academy of Art University Public Relations office long after my internship ended. Public Relations and Special Events Manager, Jeanette Peach, was aware of my interest in editorial content and referred me to Joyus. Right away, I knew that Joyus was truly something special. I had never worked for a start-up before and if I was going to do it, this was THE one. Joyus is redefining the online shopping experience in a really chic way. Once I met with some of the talented people who work at Joyus, I was even more inspired. You can feel the passion and drive when you are in the Joyus office—it was this energy and company philosophy that made me want to dive right in.

FSD: Could you tell us little bit about Joyus? What is your average day like, and what is the working environment? What kinds of projects are you working on?

SL: On my first day, my supervisor said, “Welcome to start-up land”. That is a great way to describe it. We are a relatively small team of 30-40 employees, which definitely works to our advantage. We have regularly scheduled weekly meetings and check-ins with the other departments, so we are all on the same page. It is such a great community of people—it’s no wonder many call it the “Joyus Family”. Right now I am working on curating non-video content that is engaging to our customers—i.e. editorial coverage for the website and social media. I love what I am doing—everyday I can’t wait to go into the office!

FSD: What is the biggest difference between working as an editorial intern at Joyous and your previous internships? Have they been similar or very different?

SL: Each internship I’ve had has been so different than the next. I would have to say the biggest difference between working at Joyus compared to previous internships has been how much original content I am able to create. Don’t get me wrong, I am still assigned tasks during the week, but I am also able to create my own. This creative freedom to go above and beyond what is assigned of me makes me feel like a real asset to the team.

Joyus Facebook Page; Image via Facebook.com

Joyus Facebook Page; Image via Facebook.com

FSD: You are about to graduate soon—congratulations! What are your plans after graduation?

SL: Thank you—I am looking forward to graduating! The most important thing to me right now is to work for a company that I believe in whole-heartedly. No matter where I am, if I am passionate about the brand, I know I will be happy. Right now, I am very happy at Joyus, so it would be great to continue working with them post-grad. Only time will tell!

FSD: Do you have a favorite memory from your time at the School of Fashion?

SL: Hmm, that’s hard—there are so many good ones! I would have to say my favorite memory is going to New York Fashion Week with the Public Relations Office. It was so much fun to explore New York under those circumstances and learn more about what goes into planning a Fashion Week runway show.

FSD: What advice would you give to students who are interested in taking a similar path with internships? What are your top tips for landing and succeeding in an internship?

SL: It may sound cliché, but WORK HARD. Interns come and go within a company, but if you work above and beyond your assigned tasks, the company will take you seriously and consider you a valuable asset to the team. Also, don’t be intimated by a job. Trust yourself and rise up to the challenge—you just might surprise yourself by what you are capable of.

 

Written by Yuna Choi, BFA Merchandising 

Student Spotlight: Madison Chertow

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Image Courtesy of Madison Chertow

Madison Chertow, BA Fashion Journalism online student, is from sunny Malibu, California, and now resides in Hollywood where she is pursuing her dream of someday becoming creative director at a fashion magazine. Chertow has had various internships for blogs and websites, but most recently she interned at 90265 Magazine. Chertow is now interning for the talented fashion designer Sue Stemp of the brand St. Roche.

 

The former model is all about finding what makes you happy as an artist and following what you want to do. We had the opportunity to chat with Chertow and hear about her internship at St. Roche, her future plans and her best words of wisdom for aspiring journalists.

 

 

Isabelle Eder: Sue Stemp is such an amazing and unique fashion designer. What is it like to work with her?

Madison Chertow: It’s been so nice! She’s really great and easy to work and communicate with about ideas and things she wants done.

 

IE: What do your daily tasks entail at your internship at St. Roche?

MC: So far, I’ve helped with the social media and marketing side of her company. I’ve helped her start to develop her Instagram presence and connect with some bloggers who really like her pieces. It’s been nice because she’s open to my ideas as well which has been fun for me. I also have been helping her start a fun weekly newsletter about local events in L.A. and her clothing, of course!

 

IE: What is the most challenging part working for St. Roche? What was the biggest learning experience?

MC: I haven’t yet had too many challenges but I think it’s just because I’ve tried to stay on top of everything as much as possible. Sue has been super easy to work with, so I am lucky! I think the biggest learning experience has been watching the process she goes through with each new collection of fashion being designed, prepped, shot, and sent out to the retailers and on her own website. It’s definitely a quick process and everything has to be done as perfectly and timely as possible!

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Image Courtesy of Madison Chertow

IE: What do you like to write about? Since you work on social media, do you still get to write as much as you would like?

MC: I actually really like my writing assignments for classes I’ve taken! It’s been fun to do the assignments and still write about fashion and topics I like. Last semester, I worked on a class where I basically made my own magazine content. It was fun for me to explore doing something like that.

 

IE: How has this internship helped you grow as an artist?

MC: I think it’s helped put me to the test, in a way, of doing the things I’ve known I’d do one day as an intern in the fashion world. It’s helped me grow knowing I am capable of putting ideas into action as well. I think whatever type of art you do, whether it’s painting, photography, or fashion writing, it’s important to always seek opportunities to grow and learn more about it.

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Image Courtesy of Madison Chertow

IE: You are an online student. How do juggle your online classes and the internship?

MC: Well, over the summer my classwork was very minimal. It was my first time taking summer classes, and I only took three, so I didn’t have a hard time at all doing both. This semester I’m taking five classes with a heavier workload. I’ve found as an online student, with or without an internship, you really need to create a schedule that works for you and stick to it. It may be hard at first when you don’t have to be present in a classroom with scheduled hours, but if you can work out something for yourself and do everything you can, I think it’s doable to do it all without getting too crazy.

 

IE: What inspired you to come to Academy of Art University and study Fashion Journalism?

MC: I’ve always really loved the world of fashion, as an art form and in my day-to-day life personally. When I was younger I wasn’t sure it was possible to make a career out of my interest in fashion. After reading about Academy of Art University in high school, I started to see it was possible to not only study fashion, but to also be prepped for the real business side of it and know what to do after school is complete.

 

IE: What are your plans for after you graduate?

MC: My ideal goal would be to find a job at a print publication. There are a lot of opportunities to work on the west coast for big publications that I’ve looked into for future reference, which I can see myself doing soon after I finish school. I am a huge fan of fashion magazines, and although I think online content for magazines is fantastic as a supplement to print, there is nothing like holding a real, physical copy of a fashion magazine and seeing amazing images and content. I’ve been collecting and reading magazines for years, for this reason. I’d love to be an editor or creative director one day for a magazine like Vogue or Elle, among others I’d be honored to work for.

 

IE: Your teachers recommended you for this internship. What pointers do you have for students who are interested in pursuing a fashion internship?

MC: I think it’s good to show your teachers your own personal style in everything you do. I feel that the Academy of Art University does a great job giving assignment/projects that have clear directions, but not too many guidelines that limit your own personality and creativity, so I definitely think its important to show what you can do that sets you apart and shows your style. Look at a lot of designers collections, fashion photography, magazine editorials and find what YOU like and what you think works and what doesn’t when it comes to style.

 

 

By Isabelle Eder, BFA Fashion Styling


Fashion Journalism Stays in Vogue, With New Hires

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Emily Holt

Former Vogue staffer Emily Holt joins faculty, offers perspective on East and West Coast sensibilities

The Academy of Art University’s Fashion Journalism program continues to grow, with contributions by talented instructors from all over the world.

Starting Fall 2015, the existing roster of faculty is joined by five renowned industry experts, each teaching a specialized course within Fashion Journalism program.

In this kick-off to a new series of interviews with Fashion Journalism instructors for Fashion School Daily, we profile Emily Holt.

Emily Holt

Emily Holt; Image via Bfa.com

FACULTY PROFILE: EMILY HOLT

A native California who migrated to New York – first as a graduate student in journalism at New York University, then fast-tracking to positions at Women’s Wear Daily, W magazine and Vogue – Emily moved back to the Bay Area last year to begin the process of launching a fashion and lifestyle store.

After being introduced to Assistant Director of Fashion Journalism Stephan Rabimov by Jinah Oh, Associate Director of Fashion Merchandising, it was quickly apparent that she was a natural fit to add her unique skills and experience with Academy Fashion Journalism students.

In Fall 2015, she will teach FSH 108 Introduction to Fashion Journalism. And she also recently authored an updated online version of FSH 619 Developments and Debates in Fashion Journalism – to reflect the vibrant debates that affect fashion journalists, industry professionals and consumers alike.

We know you will be as delighted to meet Emily as we are.

Paul Wilner:  You’re originally from here but moved East and ended up at WWD, W and Vogue? How much of a culture shock was that, and what led you to explore fashion in the first place?

Emily Holt: I grew up a shopper. It’s just what I liked to do in my free time. Granted this was the ‘80s and all the cool teenage girls I idolized were going to the mall, so that probably had something to do with it.

Then one summer when I was home from college, I worked in a small boutique in Los Gatos that subscribed to WWD. It was my first exposure to the paper and I loved it. When I went back to UCLA in the fall, I landed an internship at WWD’s LA bureau (thanks to both strategy and luck) and realized that’s what I wanted to do with my life. So I went to NYU to get my Masters in journalism, and, again with the help of strategy and luck, I got a job there after graduation as a junior accessories reporter.

I can’t say I experienced any dramatic culture shock. S.F. and N.Y. actually feel more similar than S.F. and Los Angeles. And in terms of shock of working in the industry, nothing happened overnight. It wasn’t like one day I was on Pier 39 and the next I was in the offices of Vogue. Everything took time, and I made sure that I was prepared and ready all along the way.

PW: How did you come to work as an editor at Vogue and what were your responsibilities?

EH: I had been a writer and editor at W and WWD for seven years when the Vogue opening came up. I knew people who worked at the magazine—it’s a small industry—and someone suggested me for the job. Maybe it was because I had a good reputation or was known to be a strong editor. It couldn’t have been because I was pedigreed or particularly fashionable. I went in for several interviews and, again, made sure I was prepared. I studied the latest issues, the latest collections, thought about my favorite designers. I ended up getting hired as fashion news editor and contributed fashion news features to the front of the book and reviewed runway shows for Vogue.com.

PW: Who are your main literary influences? What books or writers made you decide to become a writer?

EH: I like straightforward and smart voices. Joan Didion and Nora Ephron are probably the two most represented writers in my library.

PW: Who are the fashion writers who have most influenced you? Can you name some of the people you think are at the top of the field?

EH: I’ve long admired Bridget Foley, who I worked for and is the Executive Editor of WWD. She’s been in the industry for a long time, which is not to say she’s old but rather that she comes to her work—reviews or new stories or op-eds—knowing the full backstory. She also has a sense of humor and “let’s get real” attitude that comes across in her writing, which I think is important in this business.

I feel similarly about Robin Givhan. She wrote a post for New York magazine’s The Cut about taking a few seasons off of reviewing fashion shows to work on her book and how differently she was treated by the designers and houses who were no longer wooing her for press. It was the most honest piece I’ve read about what it’s like to be a fashion journalist.

PW: How have blogging and the rise of the Internet affected fashion journalism?

EH: I think it’s affected outlets’ priorities. Online readers aren’t necessarily so interested in long form journalism, or lengthy analytic reviews. So you see a lot of slideshows.

PW: What about fashion icons – who are your favorite style leaders?

EH: In the documentary “Iris,” Iris Apfel was quoted as saying it’s better to be happy than well-dressed. And I liked that.

PW: Do you have a basic uniform? Do you feel pressure to be as stylish as the people you cover?

EH: My uniform has changed a lot since moving to S.F. and working from home. I could talk about that for hours. But let’s just say I wear jeans more often than I used to. Usually with a nice sweater and Ancient Greek Sandals.

I only feel pressure to be as stylish as the people I cover because fashion is a way to connect. If a subject respects or admires or likes something I’m wearing, they’ll see me as someone worth talking to (it’s just human nature). But if I’m going to an event or gala or something, I don’t stress unnecessarily over what I’m going to wear because I know no one will be looking at me. They’ll all be too busy looking at and photographing the people I cover.

PW: You’re teaching an undergraduate course FSH 108 Introduction to Fashion Journalism this fall. Any advice for budding fashion journalists?

EH: Report. Report. Report. Don’t assume you know anything. Ask questions. And always be polite.

PW: When you studied journalism at NYU, did you dare to tell them of your interest in fashion? What was the reaction?

EH: I was waitlisted at NYU because I wrote on my application that I was interested in fashion journalism. They said it wasn’t real journalism. So I called up the admissions office and pleaded my case, telling them all about WWD and how it approaches fashion as a business, etc. etc. It worked. They let me in. (Or a student dropped out at the last minute.)

PW: Why did you decide to return to San Francisco last year? Has The City become more stylish?

EH: I returned to S.F. for a number of reasons. First, I was feeling ready to leave N.Y. I was there for 12 years. Second, everyone on the East Coast (and in the world) is looking at what’s happening out in Silicon Valley and S.F.0 (mostly because of tech) so I decided as a hometown girl I should go check it out for myself and report back. Third, I saw an opportunity here to start a fashion and lifestyle store that brings an identity to SF style. So that’s what I came here to do.

 

Written by Paul Wilner

Locally sourced, globally inspired. Alumna Melissa Fleis Designs Uniforms for SF’s Hotel Zephyr

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Melissa's designs for Hotel Zephyr staff. Photo courtesy: Melissa Fleis

Located in one of San Francisco’s busiest neighborhoods, Fisherman’s Wharf, Hotel Zephyr – with chic, retro and nautical ambiance – is the closest hotel to the famous Pier 39. The hotel’s DNA is linked with its staff sharing their adventurous philosophy, therefore when it comes to dressing their staff the hotel management decided to tap Academy of Art University 2010 MFA Fashion Design alumna and Project Runway Season 10 participant Melissa Fleis. Fleis, who is also the creative force behind her eponymous label, was asked to design the hotel uniform after Carmen Cruz, General Manager of Hotel Zephyr, saw and fell in love with Melissa’s uniform design for SF’s Dirty Habit restaurant.

Melissa's designs for Hotel Zephyr staff. Photo courtesy: Melissa Fleis

Melissa’s designs for Hotel Zephyr staff. Photo courtesy: Melissa Fleis

“Located near Fisherman’s Wharf, Zephyr naturally has a very nautical feel to it. I wanted to combine this, and elements of California luxe to create a very different, and very unconventional hotel experience,” said Fleis. “My creative process began with looking back at early 20th Century sailors, women factory workers in WWII, and also looking forward to modern technical silhouettes.” She felt that “it’s important to me that they all feel like they’re part of the same team.” To make sure garments were custom tailored and fit immaculately, Fleis did at least 2-3 fitting for each staff member. In addition, she also created a custom logo and patches on the t-shirts as part of the collection.

Custom logo and patch for Hotel Zephyr, part of Fleis' collection. Photo courtesy: Melissa Fleis

Custom logo and patch for Hotel Zephyr, part of Fleis’ collection. Photo courtesy: Melissa Fleis

Fleis relied on local, California-based businesses to bring her collection to life. According to her, she sourced her cotton blends, French terry, denim and fleece yoga fabrics both in Los Angeles and San Francisco. When it came to production, she didn’t go far, rather she chose to work with local independent brands and factories. By working locally, Fleis infused the collection with a California vibe and did her part to support local businesses that are struggling to fight outsourcing, which is gaining a foothold due to the cheaper production costs it offers.

Hotel Zephyr staffs in Fleis' collection. Photo courtesy: Melissa Fleis

Hotel Zephyr staffs in Fleis’ collection. Photo courtesy: Melissa Fleis

Fleis says that she is open to working with other companies to create custom uniforms for them. To her, the challenging process allows her to “translate my design aesthetic to a much broader scale, while also incorporating varying degrees of design concepts, and ideas.”

For more information about Melissa Fleis and her work, visit her website here.

 

 

Written by Taufik Marasabessy, BFA Merchandising

 

Alumni Update: The Limitless World of Bhagvati Khalsa

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Painting by Bhagvati Khalsa. Photo Courtesy of Bhagvati Khalsa
Bhagvati Khalsa. Photo courtesy of Bhagvati Khalsa

Bhagvati Khalsa. Photo courtesy of Bhagvati Khalsa

Bhagvati Khalsa, who was born in Colorado and grew up in a Sikh boarding school in Northern India, has been exposed to two completely different worlds that made her who she is today.

“It is hard to gauge the impact my upbringing has had on my life, but having to straddling duel cultures has given me the ability adapt and improvise easily with the tools and project at hand,” Khalsa told Fashion School Daily.

The 2000 alumna of Academy of Art University BFA Fashion and Knitwear Design with emphasis on Illustration, has accumulated over a decade of industry experience ranging from Banana Republic up to Patagonia. Recently, Fashion School Daily had the opportunity to interview this nature lover who also loves drawing, ceramics, climbing and surfing.

"Nomadic Safari" one of Bhagvati Khalsa's work. Photo courtesy of Bhagvati Khalsa

“Nomadic Safari” one of Bhagvati Khalsa’s work. Photo courtesy of Bhagvati Khalsa

Fashion School Daily: What sparked your interest to study Fashion and Knitwear Design at Academy of Art University?

Bhagvati Khalsa: I have loved drawing and making things since I was a kid, but the major turning point that pushed me towards fashion was studying with a master tailor just out of high school. She really instilled in me the love of the process. I had very little knowledge about the Fashion industry, but thought that if I loved to draw and sew it was a natural choice.

FSD: During your study in Academy of Art University you received full scholarship for international exchange and went to study French in Chambre Syndicate De La Couture Parisienne, how did you get the scholarship? And why French?

BK: I got the scholarship based on my portfolio, and jumped at the chance because who wouldn’t? France was not my first choice but my history and knowledge in tailoring ended up being very beneficial in helping me understand what was going on since my teachers didn’t speak English. I ended up studying French in the evenings and still feel so lucky to have had that opportunity.

FSD: Any fond memory you still remember from your school days? If so what is it? 

BK: I remember when I learned how to find inspiration and utilize it; the world opened up and felt limitless.

FSD:  After you graduated, what was the first thing you did afterward?

BK: I taught Visual research, fashion life drawing and senior portfolio at a university in Ohio. Although I was quite young it felt relevant because the Academy of Art University fashion program gave me a much more European take on design. The students in Ohio had more emphasis on the commercial side of fashion and I could expose them to another way of seeing it.

FSD:  You have accumulated so many experiences in fashion industry; what’s your most memorable one?

BK: To be honest there is not one that is most memorable. It is much more about process and looking forward to new experiences that align my personal ethos with my work world.

Poster by Bhagvati Khalsa. Photo courtesy of Bhagvati Khalsa

Poster by Bhagvati Khalsa. Photo courtesy of Bhagvati Khalsa

FSD: You have worked for a big company like Banana Republic and you have also worked for small companies. What’s the biggest difference you have noticed? And which one do you prefer? 

BK: The Bigger companies tend to have more bureaucracy with systems that track quality and consistency which is great, but also makes for a lot of data entry. The size is usually reflected in the budget so the bigger companies can offer broader access to a variety of opportunities such as travel for research and development (R&D). As for and smaller companies it varies greatly, there are many small companies that exist solely to make private label knock offs which can be quite depressing, but If that is not their intention, smaller companies are willing to take more stylistic risk. This can be very rewarding, because it can give the person opportunities to wear multiple hats and feel like you are making a bigger contribution to the overall product. I do not have a preference, as I have had good and not so good experiences with both, in the end when I feel like I am able to make a good contribution is when I feel the most rewarded.

FSD: When you were still at Academy of Art University, what was your dream job? And are you still working towards it?

BK: My Dream has never revolved around a job, but around the desire to continue to grow, be creative and make things. So my hope is that it is a life long journey and it is never a place that I will reach, but always be working towards.

Photo courtesy of Patagonia

Photo courtesy of Patagonia

FSD: You are currently working for Patagonia, how did it all start? What was the hiring process like? 

BK: I got an interview because I have a friend and Patagonia employee who recommended me for the position. Patagonia is a family owned company and they like to create a family atmosphere so it is encouraged to bring people in the mix that fit culturally with relevant skill sets. I had multiple interviews and after being hired, I moved very quickly from Colorado to Ventura CA.

FSD: What’s an average day like for you in Patagonia?

BK: The Great thing about working at Patagonia is there is not really an average day. There are a lot of interpersonal interactions and telephones are rarely used. People work hard and play hard and if the work gets done there usually is not a problem.

"What time is it going to rain" mural by Bhagvati Khalsa. Photo by Bhagvati Khalsa

“What time is it going to rain” mural by Bhagvati Khalsa. Photo by Bhagvati Khalsa

FSD: Looking at your website, you have an array of beautiful works, which one is your favorite? What can you tell me about it 

BK: My favorite projects have been some of the bigger scale projects that I have worked on.  I have assisted some large-scale installation artist and built sculptures that people could physical experience, moving through them.  Of my favorite personal projects was a mural I made on my house in Brooklyn NY called “what time is it going to rain?”  It measured 13’x26’ and the scale and having to interaction with the public made for a very spontaneous and satisfying process.

FSD: During your study at the Academy of Art University, you had an emphasis on illustration. Can you tell me more about your illustration style?

BK: I did a lot of figure drawing at the Academy of Art University and that has continued to be something I use to evolve my style. I really like to draw with pen, I like that it forces you to look harder before committing your line to the page.

FSD: What inspires you?

BK: Nature, people and being alive!

FSD: What’s next for you?

BK: Currently I am exploring the world of ceramics and am interested to see where it takes me.

FSD: We all know the real world is hard and fashion industry is not an easy industry to work in, what advice can you give to graduating fashion students? 

BK: There is not one path, look for yours and be true to your self.

 

For more information about Bhagvati Khalsa and her work, visit her website here

 

 

Written by, Taufik MarasabessyBFA Merchandising 

Amidst a brand Renaissance, Abercrombie & Fitch visited Academy of Art University to recruit fresh talent

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On Tuesday and Wednesday, October 13-14, the Abercrombie and Fitch team came to Academy of Art’s fashion building, 625 Polk, to recruit senior fashion students to join their burgeoning creative team. Full time positions and internships are open for stylists, apparel designers, CAD designers, and technical designers. Unlike the majority of internships available for students, Abercrombie internships are paid $800 a week along with a monthly housing stipend. Full time employees enjoy the perks of traveling, health insurance, and three weeks worth of vacation days. If it sounds too good to be true, it’s not. Though the presentations were specifically for fashion stylists and designers, Abercrombie also offers positions across the company including merchandising, marketing, and graphic design. Don’t fret if you weren’t able to attend the event—Abercrombie’s online career center is easy to navigate and they are always looking for new talent (http://www.anfcareers.com/).

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The Abercrombie & Fitch team. Photo by Bob Toy.

“Thinking about the scope and scale of the company you’d be designing for, and the fact that it can be worn all over the world is pretty amazing, especially out of college,” explained Meghan Riggs, director of human resources at Abercrombie & Fitch.

With an estimated revenue of $4 billion, Abercrombie & Fitch and its two subsidiary labels—Hollister and Abercrombie Kids—are global retailers. Their pervasive mascot—a silhouetted stately moose—evokes memories of distressed flared jeans, slim graphic tees, and the indelible aroma of the brand’s signature scent.

However, even with the labels’ ubiquity, the company has overhauled its image and internal structure to acclimate to the current industry and remain relevant. With a new management team and an updated aesthetic, Abercrombie & Fitch’s future is looking up. Along with a new look, the brand aims to stimulate and diversify by expanding internationally into Asian and Middle Eastern markets.

A quick peek into any one of their numerous storefronts and the evolution is undeniable. The brand is steering away from their notoriously sultry imagery, replacing steamy black and white campaigns for lighter, more colorful lifestyle looks to attract a new generation of customers. Even Hollister’s SoCal beach hut façade has undergone a sleek makeover that reflects a more refined, urban spirit.

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Students at the Abercrombie & Fitch presentation. Photo by Bob Toy.

The revival doesn’t stop there: both Abercrombie & Fitch and Abercrombie Kids are broadening their consumer demographics by offering products for a wider range of age groups. The parent company is breaking out of the teen-apparel market and focusing on appealing to young adults, while its kid label is going younger and offering styles and sizes for children as young as three. Despite the shifts, each label intends to preserve its core heritage and continue to deliver quality products.

Abercrombie’s generous internships are ideal gateways into the fashion industry. Forget about the days of fetching coffees and being unappreciated: At Abercrombie, they value their employees for their talents.

“They love your creativity, your fresh ideas, it’s different from a lot of other corporate cultures that way. You’re immediately respected as a designer…you’re working on the process from start to finish,” said AAU fashion graduate Natalie Vance, who currently designs men’s denim and twill at Hollister.

Not only do interns have access to full resources of the design process, they get the opportunity to work directly with accomplished designers. Interns also get the chance to experience the Abercrombie lifestyle by being immersed in its culture and heritage. During the eight-week program, those hired will work at the hub of a multibillion corporation.

The brand’s corporate campus boasts numerous amenities that promote healthy living and philanthropic activities. Set in the quaint lush town of New Albany, Ohio—just a short drive from Columbus—Abercrombie headquarters lacks the towering skyscrapers and cramped cubicles of traditional corporate life. They recognize the importance of comfort, creativity, and community and their corporate culture proves it. And let’s not forget the jaw-dropping disparity of cost of living…

“It’s a dream zone for inspiration, and the culture is uplifting and energizing…it’s a cool place to be,” added Bobby English, Abercrombie recruiter and graphic designer.

By Angela Han , BA Fashion Journalism

Alumni Update: Janey Cao

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Janey_Cao

Photo courtesy of Janey Cao

Fashion School Daily caught up with Janey Cao, 2012 MFA Fashion Design Alumna.

What have you been doing since graduation?

After graduation, I stayed in San Francisco for a year working as a fashion designer at Alvarado Mills for my OPT. As soon as I returned to China, I found my first job as a fashion designer for a brand called Five Plus at Trendy International Group in Guangzhou. During that period, I also took part in the Zac Posen for Five Plus Cooperation Project. I researched and develop new designs and followed up the process of fabric and design development. It was a great experience. After Five Plus, I worked as an Assistant of the English Fashion Design Professor and Textile Instructor for 1st year in ESMOD Guangzhou. During that time, I assisted and translated for the Fashion Design Professor in 2nd and 3rd year classes, as well as the Textile Instructor for 1st year preparation and planning classes, translating school work from English to Chinese. That was a wonderful time working at the school. And recently I have been busy working at EXCEPTION de MIXMIND as a textile designer.

What do you love about your job?

I love my job since I have a passion for original design. EXCEPTION de MIXMIND is one of the most famous original fashion design companies in China. I work as a textile designer. I work with fabric and create new pattern design and use different techniques for my work, and I am always happy to see my design turn into real product.

What is your average day like?

My average day begins with coffee in the morning and making a list of my goals for that day. Sometimes we have meetings and I end up working until 9pm but usually I get out of work about 6pm so I relax and play the guitar in the evening.

Where have you found inspiration lately?

I have been finding inspiration from a Chinese painter called Peng Wei and Song Dynasty art.

What is your favorite memory from your time at the School of Fashion?

My favorite memory from the School of Fashion would be my two dresses showcased during the spring show in 2011. As I remember, those dresses were from the 3D design class and that was how I first learned the 3D draping technique.

What was your biggest surprise during your time as a student?

As a student, my biggest surprise was that I found textile design was my second favorite thing. The first being fashion design. I took applied textile 1 and 2, and I used my work from those textile classes in my interview for EXCEPTION de MIXMIND and got accepted. So that was my biggest surprise – that I could work as a textile designer as well as a fashion designer.

What was the hardest fashion lesson you’ve learned?

That would have been in my 3D design class, as a student I found pattern making was the biggest challenge, because sometimes it is difficult to make designs into real garments. I remember I spent more time on pattern making and sewing than designing.

What advice would you give to students?

My advice would be keep working hard, no pain, no gain. If you don’t understand, always ask. Someday you will be grateful for what you’ve learned from the School of Fashion at Academy of Art University. Know what you are good at what you are most interested in. Always remember the 3Ws — who, when, where, and your statement for design, be professional. Don’t give up if you love fashion.

Founding Editor of ELLE.com Joins the Academy’s Fashion Journalism Program

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C.Durcanin In Class

From Gucci to Gorbachev, veteran journalist Cynthia Durcanin brings her eclectic reporting experience to the Academy’s Fashion Journalism program.

Durcanin, who began teaching this fall as an on-site, part-time instructor, has reported for Esquire, The Wall Street Journal Europe and Travel & Leisure magazineAfter many years in news reporting, she then moved into the world of Parisian fashion as the founding editor of Elle.com.

One of Durcanin’s goals teaching at the Academy is to provide as much real world experience as possible, preparing students for demanding editorial situations. In class exercises such as writing on a deadline and collaborative role playing allow students to overcome fears, think on their feet, and be persuasive. “Knowing the fundamentals of good reporting and writing will empower you to write about anything,” she says.

Durcanin journeyed into the world of Parisian fashion, working at ELLE magazine, where she launched the publication’s first international, English language website, Elle.com. This was when the Internet was still in its early days! However, Durcanin’s career hasn’t always been in fashion. She reported on Nelson Mandela’s release from prison and covered the collapse of the Soviet Union in the 1990s. Newspaper reporting is where she learned her foundational skills. Her editors “were demanding and always pushed for more”, she says. “Just when I thought my story answered every conceivable question they asked even tougher questions!”

Durcanin’s class, FSH 617 can be seen as a launch pad into fashion journalism, whether students desire to be a fashion journalist, blogger, editor, or public relations professional. Current student, Tyler Drinnen says, “Cynthia is a perfect fit because her professional experience and inspirational background helps guide students towards their dream careers.”

C.Durcanin In Class

Photo: Tina Chen, student at Academy of Art University

Q&A with Cynthia Durcanin:

Q: What’s important about fashion journalism today? 

A: Today’s fashion journalists are still obsessed with design, but are also addressing questions of race, politics, technology, ethics and gender. The course provides the necessary skills to work in the industry, but also looks at fashion from a cultural perspective beyond the runway and why that matters.

Q: How did you discover that you wanted to be a journalist?

A: As a child I loved reading the newspaper and knew at age nine that I wanted to be a journalist. I began writing for my high school newspaper, then college paper, basically for anyone who would let me. I wrote my first “real” article during an internship at a tire trade magazine. I knew absolutely nothing about tires when I accepted the internship and ended up writing a cover story on all season radial tires!

Q: Working as a content director for LVMH allowed you to attend some major fashion shows in Paris and New York. What was that like?

A: When I worked at eLuxury, an upscale e-tail site owned by LVMH, I accompanied buyers on trips to New York and Paris. We would see John Galliano’s over the top collections for Dior on the runway, then go to the boutique the next day. The buyers would then dissect the collection for market selecting looks for real women. They were like number crunching psychologists; it was absolutely fascinating and so educational.

Q: You were the founding editor of Elle.com in Paris…what a dream position! What were the fashion dotcom sites like back then? 

A: The magazine was king and many people at the helm did not think a website could be taken seriously. And yet a small division at the company had the vision and knew we had to be there. I worked with Elle editors in 32 countries sharing content and had a lot of editorial freedom because there was no existing road map. For the first time readers could go to a universal Elle website and read in English about trends in Sweden, Argentina or China. Today the pendulum has swung and print magazines depend more than ever on their websites.

Q: What was it like to work as a fashion journalist in Paris? Did you speak French? 

A: I spoke bad high school French when I arrived in Paris and I spent my first month taking an intensive language class at Alliance Francaise. At home I listened to a lot of dubbed episodes of Peter Falk as Columbo. At work I sat in on meetings where I only understood half of what was happening, by the end of day I was exhausted. So I can really empathize with our ESL students. You just have to get over your fear of seeming stupid and ask the “stupid questions.”

Q: Do you have a mantra you live by?

A: True happiness lies just outside your comfort zone.

 

Cynthia Durcanin teaches FSH 617: MS: FUNDAMENTALS OF FASHION JOURNALISM

Click here for more information about the class

 

By Shradda Subhash Kutty, MFA Fashion Merchandising

Guest Speakers from E! Fashion Police, Vanity Fair Magazine Talk How To Make It In Fashion

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As a fashion student, there can be weeks of no sleep and long hours of homework, but the thought of an exciting career in fashion keeps you going.

 

Then graduation day arrives. Faced with the reality of the real world, you ask, “What on earth am I going to do now?”

 

On Nov. 4th two recent graduates whose careers are taking off at E! Fashion Police and Vanity Fair Magazine provided some of the answers. Instructor Cynthia Durcanin, the founding editor of Elle.com in Paris, invited them to speak to students enrolled FSH 617, Fundamentals of Fashion Journalism at the Academy of Art University.

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From left, Jamie Emmerman, Cynthia Durcanin, Kate Hillenbrand. Photo by Bob Toy

Kate Hillenbrand, a former intern at Sony Pictures, who now works as a production assistant at E! Fashion Police, was joined by Jamie Emmerman, a Photography Associate for Vanity Fair Magazine; both are recent graduates of Emerson College in Boston.

 

They’re good friends, ambitious and have a lot passion for what they do. And while we all know there is no manual to adulthood, Hillenbrand and Emmerman pointed students in the right direction.

 

“Do a lot of internships,” said Emmerman, who is based in New York. Internships help train you for future work, but they also help you figure out what you don’t want to do, he explained.

 

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From left, Jamie Emmerman, Cynthia Durcanin, Kate Hillenbrand. Photo by Bob Toy

Emmerman, whose work has also appeared in Vice, Interview Magazine and Slate, interned every summer in college. While looking for a job on the site Ed2010  (
) he applied to be an intern at Vanity Fair, “I didn’t even know that they had winter internships.” That was his first step, then he was hired as a photography assistant.

It’s also important to show a good work ethic. “You don’t have to have the most amazing resume to get the best internship,” said Hillenbrand, who works in Los Angeles. “You just have to prove that you will do the sh**y work. Just do it, and leave your ego at the door.”

 

Emmerman agreed, adding that the people you might work for some day also did their time as interns. “A lot of the editors at Vanity Fair started as interns, “ he said.

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Kate Hillenbrand. Photo by Bob Toy.

It’s also important to humanize the bold face names who do the interviewing. “You walk into a place with a huge name and you see that person as embodying the name,” Emmerman said. “But remember they’re just like you and they probably had an interview like that and they were petrified too.”

 

Hillenbrand emphasized the importance of mastering social media as part of a fashion education. “I used to think social media would merge with marketing, but now I see that’s not necessarily true, they’re two separate things,” she said. “Taking classes in social media is very valuable because it’s not going away.”

 

She also spoke about how social media is challenging what we think of as fashion. “People are becoming so open to conventionally unattractive clothing it makes it harder to be like; this is ugly, or am I just looking at it with the wrong point of view?” Hillenbrand said.

 

Apart from the realities of work, students also wanted to know about how to live on unpaid internships, lifestyle differences between the West and East coasts, and of course, what to wear!

 

“This discussion is just what I needed to hear to get an idea of what is attainable after graduation,” said Juan Mata, a student in FSH 118 OL1 Fashion Editing and Writing. “Some things that really struck me; you don’t have to start off with the best job or internship,” he said. “Everyone has to pay their dues.”

 

While Hillenbrand stressed the importance of dressing professionally, students were relieved to learn that they do not have to dress like Anne Hathaway’s character in “The Devil Wears Prada.”

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Jamie Emmerman (left) and Kate Hillenbrand (right). Photo by Bob Toy.

“If you’re on a budget you can always wear basic black,“ she said. “It looks professional and no one really knows what label you’re wearing.”

 

Jeremy Foster, also an FSH 118 student said he felt encouraged by both Hillenbrand and Emmerman.

 

“Kate said that no one likes a person in fashion who is a bore. I think that is something that I worry about, how much of myself I can keep.” he said. “Clearly being myself is going to be my greatest asset.”

 

We learned a lot from our guest speakers. Not only from their experiences but also from their honesty about working in fashion. They talked about what all students fear — the pressure to do everything right.

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Jaime Emmerman. Photo by Bob Toy.

“Perspective is the most important thing to have at any job,”  said Hillenbrand. “Especially as an entry level employee, you feel like everything is kind of a job interview.”

 

Emmerman added, “Everyday you’re interviewing to move forward, so you need to take it easy.”

 

Their stories showed us that it is possible to land a dream job and that working in fashion can be the experience of a lifetime.

 

 

By Paula Gomez 


Alumni Update: Antonio Luna

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Antonio Luna with President Stephens at the 2015 Graduation Fashion Show. Photo by Bob Toy.

Antonio Luna, 2012 BFA Menswear Design Alumnus, presented his senior collection at the 2012 Graduation Fashion Show. In April 2013, his collection was selected for the Academy of Art University Fashion Show during the San Francisco Museum and Historical Society gala, Standing Ovations VI—San Francisco Style Gala, an annual event celebrating the city’s unique contributions to the fashion industry. Earlier this year, he launched his eponymous collection and online store.

How did you come to study in the School of Fashion?

Since childhood, I have been drawn to fashion and design. At the age of 14, I began to design special-occasion dresses that my mother would sew for my older sisters. However, the social climate in Guadalajara did not encourage men to pursue careers in fashion. I pragmatically completed a degree in Business Administration, moved to California, learned English, and began working in hospitality. This career paid reasonably well and offered growth potential, but the work did not inspire me.

I started taking fashion classes at City College of San Francisco. After two years, one of my instructors advised me that Academy of Art University offered a full scholarship to one City College fashion student each year. I knew that the Academy of Art University had an incredible four-year fashion program, and a scholarship was the only way I could get in. For the next six months, I put together a strong collection of seven looks on a budget of $4,000, which I earned waiting tables. Of the 14 students who competed, my collection was selected as the winner and I was awarded the Presidential Scholarship by Dr. Elisa Stephens. That night changed my life forever.

What is your favorite memory from your time at the School of Fashion?

Presentation days were the best. Although nerve-wracking, I learned the most about my aesthetic and the way I communicate though fashion. I also learned about the way my classmates approached challenges and channeled their creativity. This interactive structure created a rich learning environment.

What was your biggest challenge during your time as a student?

My biggest challenge was the cost of living in San Francisco. The School of Fashion curriculum is rigorous and the projects demanding, leaving little time for a part-time job. I earned a few hundred dollars per week as a waiter. After rent, my income was spent on fabric and supplies. While producing my final collection, I had to sublet the living room of my one bedroom apartment in order to buy shoes for the models. I am very grateful for that experience because I learned to be very resourceful.

Thinking back to when you were creating your senior collection, do you have any advice for students who want to create a collection for one of the University fashion shows?

Be honest with yourself in every sense – your aesthetic, your resources, your timelines, and your skills. If you decide to go for it, don’t hesitate to give it your all. Work the hardest you can. At the end of the day, your work will speak for itself on the runway and that is the best feeling of satisfaction.

Did you always know that you wanted to start your own line?

No I didn’t. At some point I wanted the security of working for somebody else. A year after the final show, I had evaluated several options but couldn’t commit because I wanted to continue to explore my own aesthetic. It has been an organic process. I have always been a hands-on person, and having my own label means that I get to learn all aspects of creating, manufacturing and merchandising my garments. I had to expand my design aesthetic to acknowledge the commercial needs of a sustainable business. I identified a niche segment of the market for special occasion menswear and I have a defined style that resonates with creative professionals.

As a designer, what is your typical day like?

I wear many hats, my day changes depending on the stage of production. If I am creating a collection, I sketch new designs, develop patterns, cut fabric, and sew samples.   It is very important for me to sew my own samples because I learn so much through the trial and error process of creating muslins. The development phase is what I enjoy the most.

Since the Bay Area garment manufacturing industry lacks the centralized infrastructure of New York or Los Angeles, the manufacturing phase requires frequent travel. My pattern grader is located in the Bayview District of San Francisco, my cutter is in the Mission, and my contract factory is in Oakland. Since I work closely with each, I find myself running back and forth to troubleshoot unexpected issues, which inevitably arise.

In the commercial or marketing phase, I focus on customer engagement and information technology (IT). For the last collection, I developed my own website and digital look book. This required me to create concepts, hire vendors, and learn the technical skills needed to run an online store. I also designed the marketing materials, including the brand style guide, stationery, business cards, and packaging. I review the status of inbound or outbound shipments daily and check emails nonstop. Finally, I commit significant time and resources to public relations and social media.

Where do you find inspiration?

Art and Architecture are my primary inspirations. I like the contrast created by the light and shadows of a building, or the compilation of colors that clash or embrace each other in harmonious or dissonant ways in a painting. Boldness can be created with simple lines and a stroke of color on a monochromatic background. I am also fascinated with the detailed construction of vintage military or police uniforms because they are skillfully crafted and define a historical masculine aesthetic.

Tell us about your new collection.

My collection is deceptively simple, it is structured yet has a soft quality. I incorporate subtle details into my garments, which translate into an understated sophistication. For Fall 2015, I used heavy weight cotton for shirts, cotton twill and canvas for pants, and wools in varying weights and colors for jackets. The palate is mostly hues of blue and teal-blue, with accents of warm ivory and rust red.

My customer is a creative professional. He works in the arts and needs special occasion garments to wear to parties, gallery openings, concerts, photo shoots, or even a first date. For these occasions, the ubiquitous uniform of jeans and a blazer won’t cut it, but a suit is not edgy enough. My customer turns to me for garments that will help him tell his unique story through menswear.

How is the launch going?

The first phase was the launch of the website/online store. The website was successfully launched in July 2015. The second phase is partnering with small contemporary boutiques for product placement. Careful selection of a stockist will increase the probability that my garments are available to the right customer at the right time.

What are your goals for the rest of 2015 and 2016?

For the rest of 2015, I will be developing small production runs of garments from the Fall collection. In addition, I have already begun to work on the Spring 2016 collection so that the samples and look book can be in front of buyers by the end of February.

Antonio Luna’s collection is currently being sold at SHOP657, a unique shop that sells Academy of Art University Alumni and current Fashion Students’ merchandise exclusively. Check out the Antonio Luna Collection on the website, Facebook, and Instagram.

01_AntonioLuna_LR 02_AntonioLuna_LR2 03_AntonioLuna_LR 04_AntonioLuna_LR 05_AntonioLuna_LR 06_AntonioLuna_LR 07_AntonioLuna_LR 08_AntonioLuna_LR 09_AntonioLuna_LR 10_AntonioLuna_LR

Photography: Claudia Goetzelmann

Styling: Konrad Janus

Model: August Gonet

Make up: Olga Pirmatova

Students Spotlight: Stephanie Michelle Hendrawan And Pitzy Villagomez Ortega

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Courtesy of YMA FSF and CFDA

Stephanie Michelle Hendrawan and Pitzy Villagomez Ortega, both came from different sides of the world and study different majors at Academy of Art University, yet they have one thing in common; they are winners of two different prestigious scholarship competitions. Michelle, who is finishing her last semester at Academy of Art University Fashion Merchandising program, won YMA Fashion Scholarship Fund (FSF) 2014, while Pitzy, who is finishing her last year at Academy of Art University Fashion Design program, won CFDA Scholarship Competition earlier this year. Fashion School Daily caught up with the two winners and asked them about their achievement.

Stephanie Michelle Hendrawan. Photo courtesy of Anjani Ramly

Stephanie Michelle Hendrawan. Photo courtesy of Anjani Ramly

Fashion School Daily: Can you tell us a bit of your background?

Stephanie Michelle Hendrawan: I am originally from Indonesia. This is sadly my very last semester here at the Academy of Art University, but I will finally get my BFA in Fashion Merchandising! I transferred to the Academy of Art University from a fashion school in Singapore after realizing that the curriculum was not adequate to help me pursue my future career in fashion merchandising and marketing.

Pitzy Villagomez Ortega. Photo courtesy of Pitzy Villagomez Ortega

Pitzy Villagomez Ortega. Photo courtesy of Pitzy Villagomez Ortega

Pitzy Villagomez Ortega: I was born and raised in Los Cabos, Mexico, which is a very small city. I was always involved in fine arts, such as painting, sculpting and I was always interested in foreign culture and art. I moved to china when I was 18 to study Chinese Mandarin. After two years, I moved to San Francisco to purse my career in fashion.

FSD: What made you pursue career in fashion?

SMH: Honestly, this might sound a bit cliché, but I was one of those girls in high school who will get caught reading Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar (back when smartphones were not available) as opposed to the mandatory high school textbooks. I realized that while my school peers were all venturing into Finance, Medical, etc., I did not share the same logic to pursue those so-called outstanding careers that would map out one’s bright future. I have always liked the marketing aspect from fashion, on how clothes that started out as pure necessity can be reiterated as something that is fun and creative, and that it can also be made to become the best representation of you. I mean, personally for me, subconsciously, people will want to be perceived in a certain way, and what better way to present yourself to the world, if not by the choice of clothing you made?

PVO: I was always involved in arts, and I knew at a very young age that I was going to pursue an art major, but as I discovered myself, I realized that fashion was always an interest of mine that I wanted to pursue for my professional career.

Photo courtesy of YMA FSF

Photo courtesy of YMA FSF

FSD: Let’s talk about the competition, can you briefly explain about the YMA competition?

SMH: I took part in the YMA Competition back in 2014 when I was enrolled in Keanan Duffty’s Product Development class. In addition to the task that Keanan had assigned for us, the YMA project became our midterm project that we have to work each week for completion. The YMA project required us to find ways, be it through the design or business aspect, of how Lululemon can revitalize itself as an athletic apparel brand in the industry.

Photo courtesy of CFDA

Photo courtesy of CFDA

FSD: Now Pitzy, can you briefly explain about the CFDA competition you partook in?

PVO: For the CFDA competition, we had to submit 12 looks based on your choice of season and inspiration, where you could take your creativity in whatever direction you wanted it to go. This has to be presented in an 11×15 paper and professionally presented, of course.

"Luluxe" logo. Photo courtesy of Stephanie Michelle Hendrawan

“Luluxe” logo. Photo courtesy of Stephanie Michelle Hendrawan

FSD: What did you submit for the competition?

SMH: I submitted my business plan to develop a higher-end of Lululemon’s line called “Luluxe” that consists of high technical and luxurious fabrications for women who have higher purchasing power.

Pitzy Villagomez Ortega’s submission for CFDA 2015 competition. Photo courtesy of Pitzy Villagomez Ortega

Pitzy Villagomez Ortega’s submission for CFDA 2015 competition. Photo courtesy of Pitzy Villagomez Ortega

PVO: I submitted a handmade book with a matching packaging that had acrylic paint on it. It’s a technique I used on fabric as a textile for my collection.

Stephanie Michelle Hendrawan’s submission for YMA FSF 2014 competition. Photo courtesy of Stephanie Michelle Hendrawan

Stephanie Michelle Hendrawan’s submission for YMA FSF 2014 competition. Photo courtesy of Stephanie Michelle Hendrawan

FSD: Can you walk us through the creation process of your work?

SMH: I knew from the beginning that Lululemon is not a cheap brand, and I also noticed that they have two primary target markets, one that really appreciates the Yogi lifestyle, and another category of people who truly seek for luxurious and comfortable fabric that they can wear everyday. What made me decide to create a capsule line called “Luluxe” was the idea that both of the two primary target markets that I mentioned have something in common: high purchasing power. I think that the target market of women that I mentioned would be much more aggregated into purchasing products that appeal to them should super luxurious and technical fabrications be used. In addition, I also added the personalized and customization services to the “Luluxe” capsule collection to attract those who have high purchasing power so they feel special and exclusive.

Pitzy Villagomez Ortega’s submission for CFDA 2015 competition. Photo courtesy of Pitzy Villagomez Ortega

Pitzy Villagomez Ortega’s submission for CFDA 2015 competition. Photo courtesy of Pitzy Villagomez Ortega

PVO: My creative process always starts with anything that captures my attention, mostly something cultural, art, or combination of both, but it’s always more than one inspiration. As I do my research I merge both creating something unique and eclectic.

FSD: What was the most challenging part of the competition?

SMH: I must say that the 10-page limitation was truly the most challenging part. I had to make many sacrifices such as remove several key words and images so it doesn’t exceed the page restriction. Another challenge is to research about the high technical fabrications. There are a lot of companies out there that are developing new technological fabrications. And personally, skimming through hundreds of fabrications and select a few that would suit “Luluxe” was truly time consuming and difficult in a way, since I am not familiar about high-tech fabrications.

PVO: The challenge behind this project was, time management. Working on several projects at the same time is really challenging!

FSD: How did you prepare yourself for the competition?

SMH: Each week, I tried to do further in-depth research about Lululemon, about how they have been struggling over the past few years, as well as their financial reports data. This is where I find the project to be enjoyable, I really like to analyze data and/or current situations to see where the troubling issues occur and find out solutions through performable strategies. I continued to find further research on the whole marketing and consumerism aspect of Lululemon and I consulted with Keanan Duffty several times to ensure that “Luluxe” is on the right track.

PVO: I wasn’t prepared at all, because when you realize you are part of the competition you start working on it right away and you don’t have time to be intimidated, and in fact, I never actually prepared myself because I believe that spontaneous work, research and exploration always lead me to more creative ideas.

Senior Directory of Merchandising at Academy of Art University School of Fashion, Keanan Duffty, Academy of Art University YMA FSF 2014 winners; Celina Enriquez, Stephanie Michelle Hendrawan, Martin Evensen, and Busara Buty. Photo courtesy of YMA FSF

Senior Directory of Merchandising at Academy of Art University School of Fashion, Keanan Duffty, Academy of Art University YMA FSF 2014 winners; Celina Enriquez, Stephanie Michelle Hendrawan, Martin Evensen, and Busara Buty. Photo courtesy of YMA FSF

FSD: Michelle, as one of the YMA FSF winners, you had the opportunity to attend the awards reception dinner in New York, what was that like?

SMH: Honestly, I thought that it was going to be overwhelming at first, but it was not. I was one of the four winners, and I think that I can say for the other three winners that we all had a great time there. It was unfortunate though that I did not get to see Iris Apfel in person as she was sick at that moment, but we still saw her video that she recorded during the dinner event. But the most important thing of all was that I got to meet with a lot of key industry people as well as fellow YMA winners who came from various schools in America.

CFDA Executive Director, Lisa Smilor, Anh Phuong Thy Do, President Elisa Stephens, Pitzy Villagomez Ortega and Executive Director of Academy of Art University School of Fashion, Simon Ungless.Photo courtesy of John Perez

CFDA Executive Director, Lisa Smilor, Anh Phuong Thy Do, President Elisa Stephens, Pitzy Villagomez Ortega and Executive Director of Academy of Art University School of Fashion, Simon Ungless.Photo courtesy of John Perez.

FSD: Pitzy, how did it feel like to be awarded and meet the Executive Director of CFDA, Lisa Smilor?

PVO: Wining this competition was such a surprise and meeting her was such a pleasure, she is a great woman. This is just a proof that my hard work as an artist means something to the world, and that’s why I am very grateful for the scholarship.

FSD: How do you think winning this prestigious competition will contribute to your career in the future?

SMH: Winning the competition has definitely helped me to gain some exposure out there. This past summer, I was honored to be a part of Oscar de la Renta’s Production Team intern thanks to Marie Colletta of YMA, who is continuously looking out for the winners, help us to get internships and give career opportunities in the fashion industry. But, nonetheless, I think that it all comes back to how you’re able to maintain a good relationship with your mentor or with your bosses, to ensure that you will gain more connection as well as better reputation for yourself out there.

PVO: CFDA is such an important organization that has helped so many designers, and wining it makes me somehow part of it. It gives me the advantage of more connections and direct help from the CFDA team.

FSD: You are both graduating soon (congrats!), what’s your next step?

SMH: Definitely finding a job here in San Francisco, or hopefully in New York if God allows.

PVO: My next step? I have many plans, but as any other students I want to get experience in the fashion field and then move to NY or Italy.

FSD: Can you give the School of Fashion students who are partaking in these competitions advice on what they should do to increase their chances of winning the YMA FSF competition?

SMH: Always do research from credible publications and keep researching on them from different aspects. Also, see what the chosen companies are currently doing or have been doing in the past to make sure that you are not repeating what they are or have been doing. The YMA judges panel will want to see a project that is new and beneficial to the chosen company so make sure to get their attention by doing something different. Also on the interview stage, be friendly and do not reply in a shy manner, the judges panel does not like that. They want you to get comfortable and to have an engaging conversation with them. If you feel uncomfortable and shy, you will also make them feel uncomfortable, and that lessen the chance for you to win the YMA Competition. Good luck to those of you participating in the competition!

FSD: Can you give the School of Fashion students who are partaking in these competitions advice on what they should do to increase their chances of winning the CFDA competition?

PVO: All I can say is, this is the time (in college) to explode your creativity to the maximum level, and explore yourself as a designer; take advantage of it.

 

 

Written by, Taufik Marasabessy, BFA Merchandising.

Alumni Update: Jacqueline Rabôt

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Photo courtesy of Jacqueline Rabôt
JacquelineRabot_LR

Photo courtesy of Jacqueline Rabôt

For the 2012 Graduation Fashion Show, Jacqueline Rabôt, 2012 BFA Fashion Design, collaborated with Julie Seltzer, BFA Textile Design, on a womenswear collection that was one of the highlights of the show. Abercrombie & Fitch was so impressed by her collection and portfolio that they offered her a design position after the show.

What have you been doing since graduation?
I started my career working at Abercrombie & Fitch and Hollister and have since transitioned to work as a designer at Free People.

What do you love about your job?
I love that the company that I work for has a similar aesthetic to my own. It’s refreshing that I am able to envision myself wearing the clothing that I design.

What is your average day like?
A day in the life at Free People is exhilarating. I find myself doing everything from mocking and draping on the form, sketching product for multiple deliveries, fitting on models, researching the latest trends and presenting our work to the buyers and head of the company.

Where have you found inspiration lately?
My main source of inspiration is thrifting and vintage shopping. There are some hidden gems of thrift stores in the Philadelphia area and I can spend hours on end sorting through the used garments to find something rare and spectacular. I would urge anyone in the NYC area to check out the ‘China Through the Looking Glass Exhibit’ at the MET – it was one of those exhibits that will stick with me for a long, long time.

What is your favorite memory from your time at the School of Fashion?
The memory that stands out most prominently was during those last hours of completing collection. I think I will always remember the intense scrambling to sew on that last bead and hem the final dress. I distinctly remember the chaos on the top floor of the Polk building and then the relief and joy once every garment was completed and handed in.

What was your biggest challenge during your time as a student?
My greatest challenge was managing every aspect that senior year entails. I was juggling a part-time job, completing collection, working on my portfolio, attending four other classes, working on multiple side projects and applying to jobs (which some require expansive projects). I remember it as a whirlwind and if I stopped moving or slowed down, I would fall behind. Once the semester was completed, my hard work had paid off and every stressful moment was worth it.

What was the hardest fashion lesson you’ve learned?
To not overanalyze fashion. It should in fact be very simple to criticize your work by asking yourself the question of “Is it beautiful?”. I learned that from professor John Bauernfeind in the School of Fashion and that is the mantra that I use when critiquing my work to this day.

Any ‘insider information’ from the fashion industry that could you share with fashion students today?
Personality and being level-headed is as important as being talented and creative. When you’re working with co-workers day in and day out and you see them more than your boyfriend and your family, it’s important to get along. Add a stressful job in the mix and you’ll quickly realize the importance of a smile and even temper.

What advice would you give to students?
To be open about the job that you take after graduating. The chances that you will land your dream job directly out of school is rare. Be patient. You have your entire career ahead of you!

Alumni Update: J’Amy Tarr

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metallic bomber close
J'Amy Tarr Profile

J’Amy Tarr, 2003 MFA Fashion Design and Textile Design Alumna

When did you launch your eponymous collection?

February 2011 in Seattle, WA

Tell us about collection.

I design a collection of modern minimal outerwear that is designed and manufactured within 50 miles from my Mill Valley Studio. The collection focuses on fit, tailoring and luxurious fabrics that evoke modern elegance and glamour.

The collection for Fall/Winter 2015 combines woodland wildflowers with military precision. A range of forest green to gunmetal grey color a vision of whimsy, structure and texture.

The J’Amy Tarr Outerwear collections have been spotlighted in the press including the Cover of the San Francisco Chronicle Style section, Racked SF, New York Post, Refinery29, Southern Living, Marin Magazine, Fashion Times, SF Gate, and Rue Magazine.

Where do you retail?

My website

Dress – SF

Blanc – SF

Two Birds – SF

7 on Locust – Mill Valley

Koze – Tiburon

Blanc – San Anselmo

Haven – Larkspur

Manaz – Los Gatos

What inspires you?

When I was young, my grandparents traveled to Japan and were inspired by the peaceful Bonsai gardens of the people they stayed with. Back in Los Feliz, Los Angeles, my grandfather began his own Bonsai garden in their side yard. A green thumb turned a single miniature juniper tree into bonsai landscape and a place of meditation in his urban world. I loved watching him manicure the trees into their simple yet powerful shapes. These observations as a child have impacted my aesthetic as a designer today. Creating designs that are quiet yet strong, like the bonsai tree, are what I consider beautiful.

What is next for you in 2015?

This Fall is super-charged. I will be finishing production, delivering to stores, attending trunk shows at stores/yacht clubs/galleries/charity events and continue to connect with my customer.

What’s the funniest thing that’s happened recently in your business?

I received a package via Fedex recently that was addressed to me, but it should have been shipped to a PR firm in Nashville TN. I called the national fashion magazine who shipped it to me to ask how they wanted me to reroute it. While speaking with them, I had an opportunity to pitch my outerwear line. Before I knew it, I was put in touch with their Fashion Editor.

By doing a good deed, I was able to show my Fall 2015 collection to one of the most sought after magazines in the US! Sometimes you connect with people in unusual ways!

Any favorite memories from your time at the School of Fashion?

During my junior year in the School of Fashion, I was chosen to be interviewed by Evening Magazine, a locally produced magazine program on TV. They followed me around for an entire day video taping me sew, draw, drape while asking me about my experiences and dreams to become a designer. When I saw the segment on TV, it was an incredible feeling. That initial fashion PR experience taught me about speaking on camera about my designs.

On a whim, I entered an International Design Competition during my senior year. With the help of technical pattern extraordinaire, Gonbee Tanaka [a former instructor in the School of Fashion], I realized my ambitious design. I ended up becoming a finalist and was flown to Korea for the show. I remember having to present my designs to the panel before the fashion show. It was an exciting experience, especially when I won an award in the finals!

And after graduating?

After earning double MFA degrees with honors, I worked on a dress for Beyoncé that made the cover of InStyle magazine while interning at Michael Kors.

What was the hardest fashion lesson you’ve learned?

Production can be one of the most difficult parts of the business. On the outside, customers have no idea what goes into making garments. Outerwear is extra challenging because there are several components involved when constructing the pieces. I have learned that working with a factory, in person, is worth a thousand words. Meeting with the workers personally saves many hours of miscommunication and challenges. Plus, I enjoying showing them the press the collection receives, and thanking them for being a part of it. I couldn’t do it without them!

Any professional tips that would who give fashion students today?

Social media numbers are often totally bogus. Several small businesses buy followers to inflate the appearance of their business. The bulk of my customer isn’t on Instagram, so I am not spending hours on that type of media like many other designers. For me, it is about meeting my customer face-to-face as much as possible. That is what drives real sales and ultimately repeat sales. Don’t forget to connect with your customer in more ways than through your Instagram account!

What advice would you give to students?

There are many paths to success in the fashion industry. What might work for one person may not be right for you. The fashion industry is always looking for new perspectives so stay true to yourself and stay unique.

Check out more of J’Amy Tarr’s collection on her website, Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, and Pinterest.

A Black Mohair Bomber A Cream Blanket Coat Model Partial A Forest Green Moto Jacket A Navy Funnel Neck Partial FUNNEL NECK - Black  metallic bomber close MOHAIR BOMBER - Blue MOTO COAT - Forest

Photos courtesy of J’Amy Tarr.

Student Spotlight: The Stellar Veejay Floresca

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Veejay Floresca’s designs at LA Fashion Design Competition 2014. Photo courtesy of Dave Lohr
Veejay Floresca. Photo courtesy of Veejay Floresca

Veejay Floresca. Photo courtesy of Veejay Floresca

Young and already full of achievements, that’s Veejay Floresca for you! The MFA Fashion Design senior has starred on the first season of Project Runway Philippines, appeared on various fashion publications with her designs and just last year she was named the Grand Prize Winner of LA Fashion Design Competition 2014. It’s not easy to talk about Floresca in just one blog post due to her many achievements. But we have managed to condense it for you as she shares her journey from Manila to San Francisco.

Fashion School Daily: You are still very young, yet you have hoarded so many achievements, Congratulations! Can you tell us a bit of your background?

Veejay Floresca: I was born and raised in the Philippines. After attaining my bachelor’s degree in Manila, I moved to London where I finished an associate degree on Bridalwear. Subsequently, I went back to Manila and worked hard to save money for my master’s degree here at Academy of Art University. I was born as a male and transitioned to female in 2013. Being a transgender in California allows me to pursue my goals and be the most authentic version of myself.

Veejay Floresca’s designs at LA Fashion Design Competition 2014. Photo courtesy of Dave Lohr

Veejay Floresca’s designs at LA Fashion Design Competition 2014. Photo courtesy of Dave Lohr.

FSD: I can see that you are very passionate about fashion, is it something that you have always wanted to do for your career? When did you become aware of your passion for fashion?

VF: I am very creative and passionate about arts. I remember when I was a kid I would always sketch on the back of my notebooks. I was always selected as the ‘Class Artist’ because my classmates believed in my creativity. Although, in high school I thought I would become a lawyer. However that dream shattered when I didn’t pass the entrance exams, hence I didn’t get accepted to the law schools I applied for. But I didn’t give up, instead I chose another route; I applied for AB Fashion Design major and I was granted a full scholarship to which I graduated with cum laude. It made me realize that I was destined to become a Fashion Designer.

FSD: You moved from Philippines to San Francisco, do you notice any differences between fashion in Philippines and fashion here in United States?

VF: There is a huge difference between fashion in Philippines and USA. In Manila, I was trained to design dresses and formal wear such as evening gowns and cocktail dresses for parties or special events. Here in San Francisco, I’m learning to focus on separates like jackets, pants, skirts and coats! The trend is also different. Here in the USA, we are more focused on designing ready to wear, but in Manila, it’s more on the lace applique, beadworks and draping. I think learning both techniques makes me a better and more experienced designer.

Veejay Floresca’s Spring 2015 collection. Photo courtesy of Veejay Floresca

Veejay Floresca’s Spring 2015 collection. Photo courtesy of Veejay Floresca.

FSD: How do you describe your style?

VF: I refer my style as “updated classic.” I start from the classic, and re-invent it to something for contemporary. I want my clothes to be wearable. I envision a strong independent woman with class and style wearing my clothes.

FSD: You have established your own business in Philippines and still going to school here at the Academy of Art University. How can you juggle these two different occupations with the time difference and distance?

VF: It’s very hard. As an entrepreneur and designer at the same time, it is very challenging to focus on both aspects of fashion; creative aspect and business aspect. I don’t have a business a partner and working in my own company in Philippines and studying here in California taught me to be disciplined, focused on my goals and work harder. I hired people I trust to represent me in Philippines but all the designs are mine. I have a small team who are working with me to execute my visions. My goal is to start another business here in the US after I finish school.

FSD: Which one do you like more; being a business owner or a student? Why?

VF: I would say I like being a business owner more because I have more freedom to experiment and be creative than a student. But being a student helps me a lot. Coming here with high expectations is totally worth it. I have learned so many things from all my classes. I am happy that I have met talented students and passionate teachers who share their expertise to us. It’s a long journey of hard work, creativity and dedication to complete a master’s degree.

Veejay Floresca’s collections on Project Runway Philippines Season 1. Photo courtesy of Project Runway Philippines.

Veejay Floresca’s collections on Project Runway Philippines Season 1. Photo courtesy of Project Runway Philippines.

FSD: You starred in Project Runway Philippines season 1. How did you end up participating? Can you share some of your experience from that?

VF: I didn’t win the show, but I was one of the top three participants who showed the collections in Fashion Week. That experience taught me to work under pressure, execute my own designs without any assistance and most importantly, it became a platform for me to show the Filipinos what I can do as a designer. It opened a lot of doors of opportunities for my career.

FSD: How was participating in Project Runway contributed to your career?

VF: It helps me build my confidence to join Project Runway Season 15 here in the US.

Veejay Floresca’s designs at LA Fashion Design Competition 2014. Photo courtesy of Dave Lohr

Veejay Floresca’s designs at LA Fashion Design Competition 2014. Photo courtesy of Dave Lohr.

FSD: Just last year you partook in LA Fashion Week Design Competition 2014 and came out as Grand Prize Winner. Can you tell us about the competition and the collection you presented?

VF: I flew to NYC to audition for Project Runway Season 13 but I didn’t make it. I told myself that I should join another competition and a friend of mine told me about this design competition in LA, which was the LA Fashion Week Design Competition 2014. I created 10 looks and showed it during LA Fashion Week. I was lucky to win the competition, as there were so many talented designers who participated.

A wedding dress by Madore by Veejay Floresca. Photo courtesy of Madore by Veejay Floresca.

A wedding dress by Madore by Veejay Floresca. Photo courtesy of Madore by Veejay Floresca.

FSD: Let’s talk about your bridal line, Madore by Veejay Floresca. What’s behind the name Madore? And why did you choose to do bridal line?

VF: I chose the name Madore because that is the name of my mom. She is my inspiration and I admire her so much. She’s the most important woman in my life. I focused on bridal wear after I studied Fashion Bridalwear in London. It’s a huge profit industry and at the same time, it is very rewarding to work with women who are getting married. They are very pleasing to work with and to me; it’s so fulfilling to be part of someone’s love story by creating a dress they wear on their special day.

Veejay Floresca's design. Photo courtesy of Francis Gum

Veejay Floresca’s design. Photo courtesy of Francis Gum

FSD: Aside from bridal line, you also do ready-to-wear. Which one do you like better? Why?

VF: My RTW line is called “FOUR28” because that is my birthday, April 28 J. Designing RTW is easier than designing bridal because in bridalwear you need to consider a lot of details and the fit must be immaculate and flawless, but I would say I love both. It’s like apples and oranges. You can’t really compare both.

FSD: You are currently finishing your last year at the Academy of Art University. What’s next for you?

VF: I’m planning to visit 10 countries in Europe as a reward for myself and work harder!

FSD: What’s the best life lesson you have learned so far?

VF: Believe in yourself. It has to start from you first. If you can’t, then how can you expect others to believe in you.

 

For more information about Veejay Floresca, visit her website here.

 

 

Written by, Taufik Marasabessy, BFA Merchandising

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